Tom5pfx
- Thread starter Tom5pfx
- Start date
Hello fellow houstonian.
I have a guy a couple of hours north of houston that can help you with this, that is..if your car is up to a two hour drive.
he's in bastrop which is out 290, we go up there a couple of times a month usually, and he is the only person I trust to work on my car for the things I cant handle in the driveway... his prices cant be beat.. he's honest and a good mechanic.
I'll send you a PM with my cell phone if your interested, give me a call.
If not.. give me a call anyways.. as I would be very interested to see your mark 8.
Tommy
I have a guy a couple of hours north of houston that can help you with this, that is..if your car is up to a two hour drive.
he's in bastrop which is out 290, we go up there a couple of times a month usually, and he is the only person I trust to work on my car for the things I cant handle in the driveway... his prices cant be beat.. he's honest and a good mechanic.
I'll send you a PM with my cell phone if your interested, give me a call.
If not.. give me a call anyways.. as I would be very interested to see your mark 8.
Tommy
Which side? There is a big difference in removal between the two. The passenger side is easy, driver's side not so much. Or you can do what I did and cut an access opening to get to the driver's side nut - easier then extensions and swivel joints.
Anyway, the way I found it best is to jack the car up. Remove the wheel and wheel well liner. Now carefully remove the retaining clip that holds the air-bag solenoid in place. Twist and lower solenoid and prepare for a blast of air.
Once the bag is deflated go back to the engine bay and remove the three strut tow holding nuts. Now you can push down the strut to make it a bit easier to work on the upper control arm.
You need 18mm tools to remove the outer buts located in the engine bay on either side of the upper control arm. As you remove the nuts, you may want to place a tool or have someone hold the bolt - however, the bolt that the 18mm nut is attached to has a "stamped" on retaining wing that will prevent it from turning too much when you remove the nuts.
Since the strut is lowered you can pull the bolts in, then pull the arm and put the new one in.
Hope this helps a little.
Anyway, the way I found it best is to jack the car up. Remove the wheel and wheel well liner. Now carefully remove the retaining clip that holds the air-bag solenoid in place. Twist and lower solenoid and prepare for a blast of air.
Once the bag is deflated go back to the engine bay and remove the three strut tow holding nuts. Now you can push down the strut to make it a bit easier to work on the upper control arm.
You need 18mm tools to remove the outer buts located in the engine bay on either side of the upper control arm. As you remove the nuts, you may want to place a tool or have someone hold the bolt - however, the bolt that the 18mm nut is attached to has a "stamped" on retaining wing that will prevent it from turning too much when you remove the nuts.
Since the strut is lowered you can pull the bolts in, then pull the arm and put the new one in.
Hope this helps a little.
I've been procrastinating on answering this post, sorry........here you go. I'm sure he's already moved on anyways, its been 9 days.
That drivers side nut is pretty easy....Shawn, $100 bucks says I can have the bolt out before you do
No need to remove the master cylinder. And no need for a modified deep socket, blah blah.....
18mm ratchet wrench tucked down in there and double wrench it with a 19mm regular wrench. You'll get one click turns until its loose and than you can just loosen the bolt from there. I've done it on mine, and I just did Eclectic's(Bruce) car.
Here...I'll go take a picture.....15 minutes later I'm back, haha....
Heres the deal, I don't give up as easy as some, I try to avoid the most work so if I have to contort or put a bunch of tools together to make something easier I'll do it.
Basically you'll want to reach down by the firewall inbetween the cylinder head and the vacuum booster to get your hand down by the nut. This will assure you get the ratchet wrench secure on the nut. Than while holding it install the 19mm wrench on the 18mm ratchet wrench as pictured. This will give you the leverage you need to break it loose. You don't need to hold the bolt yet so you don't have to worry about that, just go one click at a time until the bolt spins, than take the ratchet wrench off and put a regular 18mm wrench on the nut. This will hold it from falling down onto the frame while you loosen the bolt and take it out. Than just pull up the wrench slowely while the nut stays inside it. Install in the reverse procedure....put the nut in the end of the wrench and hold it in place while you start the bolt by hand. Piece of cake...took 5 minutes tops for me
"Proper Tools"...
Locate the nut...(below the thick red wire)
Second hand for support....
Install 18mm Ratchet Wrench...
Install 19mm Wrench for leverage...
Stand on the drivers side by the wheel and PULL towards you, if you bottom out, force the wrenchs towards the passengerside until you hear the ratchet wrench click...you're only going to get one out of it. You may be able to use a long 3/8" adjustable angle head ratchet with a socket, but its going to want to flex off. After you loosen the nut a bit, you can break the tabs off of the head of the bolt, and just keep the wrench on there to keep the nut from spinning while you loosen it from the bolt(inner) side.
Lmao....sorry
This is one of "those" posts that I spent so much time on, but got thrown away. It now has a more thankful/usefull home.