Question about front brakes

davedwards

Registered
I'm about to tackle the front brake pads and just wanted to know if the method for retracting the front caliper pistons is the same as the rear.Does the front screw in like the rear? 2004 LS w/ 3.9 V8. Thanks
 
No.
They just push in. Only calipers with built-in parking brake mechanisms need to be turned in. That's what confused you about the rears.

Speaking of rears, now that I've read your "should rotors get this hot" thread, I suppose someone should have warned you against twisting/kinking the brake lines or parking brake cables when moving the caliper around, but it seemed self-evident.

What happened in the end? Did the shop that fixed the out-of-range MAF sort the brakes out for you?
 
I messed up, I admit it

I messed up, I admit it

They say that it takes a strong person to admit their mistakes, maybe a better description for me would be "dumb".I always pride myself on being thourough and double checking everything,but this time I messed up. I left one of the bolts loose on the caliper and that was not allowing it to open when brakes were released.Everything checks out good now and since it was only driven about 6 miles with the problem, nothing was damaged.This does make me aware that I need to do a better job of checking these things and re-assembling things properly. This just strengthens my mechanic's argument that I should leave these things to " the professionals". I don't disagree that most things should be done by a qualified mechanic, but I still want to do some things like oil change,filter changes,and yes brake pads. I guess I'm still wishing that I had gone to school for auto mechanics instead of getting into Real estate. Sometimes I think auto mechanics would be more rewarding.Thanks
 
They say that it takes a strong person to admit their mistakes, maybe a better description for me would be "dumb".I always pride myself on being thourough and double checking everything,but this time I messed up. I left one of the bolts loose on the caliper and that was not allowing it to open when brakes were released.Everything checks out good now and since it was only driven about 6 miles with the problem, nothing was damaged.This does make me aware that I need to do a better job of checking these things and re-assembling things properly. This just strengthens my mechanic's argument that I should leave these things to " the professionals". I don't disagree that most things should be done by a qualified mechanic, but I still want to do some things like oil change,filter changes,and yes brake pads. I guess I'm still wishing that I had gone to school for auto mechanics instead of getting into Real estate. Sometimes I think auto mechanics would be more rewarding.Thanks
I haven't any formal training in auto mechanics and I do all of my own work. The secret is websites like this. There is not much you will have to do to your car that hasn't been done by some one this site. All you gotta do is ask.
 
When you compress the front caliper pistons MAKE SURE you open the bleeders and let all that old crappy brake fluid flush out. Than after you're done and its put back together, make sure you have enough fluid in the resevoir and pump on the brakes until you feel the pedal get hard, than top off the brake fluid. Basically you've done your own front brake fluid flush. :D
 
This does make me aware that I need to do a better job of checking these things and re-assembling things properly. This just strengthens my mechanic's argument that I should leave these things to " the professionals". I don't disagree that most things should be done by a qualified mechanic, but I still want to do some things like oil change,filter changes,and yes brake pads.

My "professional" mechanic forgot to plug my TPS back in when he replaced my IAC. Car ran like crap until I decided to see what he did...
 
When you compress the front caliper pistons MAKE SURE you open the bleeders and let all that old crappy brake fluid flush out. Than after you're done and its put back together, make sure you have enough fluid in the resevoir and pump on the brakes until you feel the pedal get hard, than top off the brake fluid. Basically you've done your own front brake fluid flush. :D

For a complete flush, leave the bleeder open and keep pumping until you see only good, clear fluid coming out. This usually takes two people though.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks for the tips. As far as needing two people,my 14 year old son is ready and waiting to help.I want to make sure that he dosen't grow up not knowing how to do at least the simple things on his car or pickup.He's planning to take Ag-mechanics next year so we may have a mechanic in the family after all.
 
For a complete flush, leave the bleeder open and keep pumping until you see only good, clear fluid coming out. This usually takes two people though.


No, Dave, don't do it!

If you are EXTREMELY careful and make absolutely sure that the master cylinder resevoir never runs dry, if you are ABSOLUTELY sure you only open the bleeders on the pedal downstroke and close them before ANY upward movement takes place, go ahead.

ANY mistake at all that might allow air bubbles to migrate into the valving portion of the ABS/IVD Hydraulic Control Unit will result in loss of brake pedal feel until an electronically commanded system bleed using an appropriate scan tool, followed by a pressure bleed is done to restore the system.

Use J's method. Just be sure to close the bleeder immediately after bottoming out the piston.
 
Last edited:
No, Dave, don't do it!

Use J's method. Just be sure to close the bleeder immediately after bottoming out the piston.

:D

Also....hold pressure on the piston once its fully collapsed and than close the bleeder. Sometimes the piston has a tendency to push back out a tad causing it to suck air into the bleeder screw.

Like Frankie said....don't EVER just open the bleed screw and pump. This will cause brake fluid to squirt out on the down stroke of the pedal, and air to be pulled into the system on the up stroke, eccentially fubar'n your whole day.
 
Let me make sure I have this right

Let me make sure I have this right

From what I'm understanding, I will need to apply pressure with the C-clamp before I open the bleeder valve so there will be outward force on the caliper the entire time that the bleeder is open, and close bleeder entirely before releasing C-clamp pressure.This I understand, what I'm wondering about is the rear calipers, do you also open the bleeder valve when you are screwing the caliper piston back in on the rear?
 
No, Dave, don't do it!

If you are EXTREMELY careful and make absolutely sure that the master cylinder resevoir never runs dry, if you are ABSOLUTELY sure you only open the bleeders on the pedal downstroke and close them before ANY upward movement takes place, go ahead.

ANY mistake at all that might allow air bubbles to migrate into the valving portion of the ABS/IVD Hydraulic Control Unit will result in loss of brake pedal feel until an electronically commanded system bleed using an appropriate scan tool, followed by a pressure bleed is done to restore the system.

Use J's method. Just be sure to close the bleeder immediately after bottoming out the piston.


My bad...I was writing as if to an expert.

The procedure is rather involved, but like they said, bleeder open on the down pump, bleeder closed on the release.

The only difference I was recommending was to keep doing this until clear fluid comes out of the bleeder - around 2-3 ounces. It is time consuming, but it'll give you a complete flush and much better brake operation and longevity.
 
This I understand, what I'm wondering about is the rear calipers, do you also open the bleeder valve when you are screwing the caliper piston back in on the rear?

Dave, you really have no NEED to open any bleeder screw at all. If you squeeze or wind a caliper piston back, the fluid will just be pushed upstream, through the lines, towards the master cylinder, where it came from in the first place.

J's advice is very valid because the brake fluid in the piston cavity of the caliper has been exposed to very high heat for a very long time and may be subject to deterioration. Leaving it in there probably(?) won't compromise braking ability, but getting it out would be better.

If you do choose to bleed it off, keep checking the master cylinder resevoir. NEVER let it get empty!
 
This is what I used...

sbani.gif


http://www.speedbleeder.com/
 
Those speed bleeders are neat.

I was always told to connect a tube to the bleeder and put the other end of the tube into the bottom of a bottle. This way, the tube gets surrounded with brake fluid so no air can go back into the bleeder.

It's a little less messy too.
 
I was always told to connect a tube to the bleeder and put the other end of the tube into the bottom of a bottle. This way, the tube gets surrounded with brake fluid so no air can go back into the bleeder.

That's the way I did it as well Bill.

I flushed my brake fluid using speed bleeders. Starting at the wheel furthest from the brake fluid reservoir and working to the one closest to the brake reservoir, I would stop every so often to refill the brake reservoir with new fluid. It was easy to tell when you had clean fluid using a clear vinyl hose on the bleeder to the container catching the purged fluid.
 
Back
Top