2000 Lincoln LS rpm problem

I have a 2000 Lincoln LS, Yesterday I put new Nology silver spark plugs in my Lincoln anyone who seen the Lincoln know you need to remove the intake in order to change half of the plugs. Well I put in the new plugs and put everything back where I found it. I started the car and everything went well. So I went to see if I had gained any hp with these top end plugs (I did space them at .44 as recommended). Once I pulled onto a strait rd I went to step on it and when my car reached 3500 or 4000 rpms it seem to disengage the engine or transmission. The car will shift normally at low rpms but if I decide I want to pass someone or accelerate at any point I run into this problem.

Is there a sensor that deals with high idle gear change or does any know why this would happen after the spark plug change? If it is something on the manifold you will have to be specific there seems to be a number of sensors on it.
Please help me.

Don't know how long you drove it after re-assembly, but maybe not long enough for tranny to re-learn strageties after having the batt disconnected.....Run it (without racing) for a day or two and try again. Recheck all the lines and connections....unplug - re-plug maybe.

Don't know a lot about the LS, but something has to be disconnected from the operation. Double check your work, I'm sure you'll find something.

We all make mistakes. I've personally left plug wires unplugged from the coil even. Once I left the MAF sensor unplugged. My favorite... I found I had left the IAT sensor unplugged but didn't notice it until after a trip to the track!

I will try both those Ideas. I checked everything once but I will recheck all the connections. I will let you know how it goes

Well if you’re checking back, I believe it is an egr problem. I'm planning on resealing the engine and putting a new intake gasket on for two separate reasons and found that the egr hose was brittle and broke. I will be replacing that and also the egr sense I will have the intake off. If I still have a problem I will be back. Thanks again for the ideas.

High RPMs on mine

High RPMs on mine

I have a 2000 LS 8 cly that idles very high 1100rpm. Every since I got it the idle has taken 5-8 minutes to drop down to a low enough level so when I put it in gear it doesn't jerk/rock the car. Sometimes I can't wait that long and its just a jolt on the transmission to put it in gear. What would cause the idle to remain that high for so long. On most cars the idle kicks down with-in 30 seconds but my LS has to be totally warmed up with the temp stick showing at the 50% level for it to kick down. My transmission is starting to fail at this point because I have put it off to long. I'm looking for Ideas for when I take it to the shop to know what I'm talking about. If I can just get the idle proper I may be able to get a year or two out of the transmission but with more rocking the transmission will be dead in a month. What do you guys think it could be and the first route to take should be.

Get the computer scanned (buy a code reader for 100 bucks) and check for codes FIRST. I guarantee you have some. Post the code #'s on here and we'll get you all straightened out.

Where does a code reader hook up on a LS/ I learned for my old Mark III but don't even know where the battery is on the LS. What is a good fair priced code reader, my trans is scaring me so much I'll probably take it in in the nest day or so, I did a full trans flush a week ago but that did no help as it shouldn't have with a high idle.

Lol. ALL newer cars have a scanner port right under the steering wheel. I got my code reader from Napa Auto Parts for $136 about 2 years ago.

...and lots cheaper than that on ebay....I just got another one for less than 80 with OBD2 AND CAN protocols...includes shipping. Mine's a INNOVA 3130.

Or you can go to advance, napa, auto zone and they can read it for you. But this will only show you codes if your check engine light is on.

krat65 said:

Or you can go to advance, napa, auto zone and they can read it for you. But this will only show you codes if your check engine light is on.

Click to expand...

WRONG. Codes CAN be present with NO LIGHT.

Well I used a AutoXray Code Scout 2500 OBD2. It says

"No Codes Found". - The Vehicles OBD-II diagnostic system reports that one or more readiness monitors are NOT complete, Drive cycles need to be run to complete all supported monitors to meet the minimum required specifications for federal emissions compliance." Summery: Check Engine light (MIL) is OFF. There are no codes. 6 of 8 Readiness monitors are complete.


The check transmission light has come on twice so I'm really surprised there are no codes. I think I did it right though, I watched it scan 25% then 50% then 75% then done with the scanner asking me to save the data which I did. But I guess the scanner didn't find any codes. I'm headed in Friday because the transmission is starting to not engage at times and at other times my engine rpm runs high but the car isn't moving like it should. Is that a torque converter?

The readiness monitors are not all complete because something cleared the codes, either the battery was disconnected or they were re-set with the scanner.

The transmission light/codes are a completely different "section" and you may need another scanner for that.

I did replace the battery before running the scanner, I rented the scanner for one night ran it posted the above and returned it the next day.