Rear battery cutoff switch.

Sierra3

Sierra3

Registered
Here are some pics of the rear mount Push to kill power switch install. I wanted it right next to the Lincoln emblem, but there really isn't enough room the way my battery sits.
I chose the Summitt switch but there are many other styles out there. Flaming River makes one but is alot more expensive. Both are rated at same amps.
I chose the location for the hole to be the trunk lid as it is easily replaceable, and it has already been drilled in four places for the rear spoiler. I did not want to drill through the bumper area and into the rear fascia cover.
It was very time consuming to get everything all ligned up correctly and lay the gridmarks on scotch tape where exactly the hole would be. Then second guessing myself and going through another set of measurements just to be sure, before i drilled into the trunk. Opening the trunkdoor, taking measurement, closing, and back and forth. Put tape over the hole where you drill so you dont have to worry about metal chips and shavings scratching your paint, and work from small size all way up to 1/2". I suppose you could use one of the reamer enlarging bits for this and save time, but i like the exactness of drill bits. They don't wander all over the place if you use a center punch and make a pilot hole for the drillbit.
I had to use a battery charger hooked to the front stand offs to work my power trunk release,as my battery was disconnected during the install.
Ok, the easy part is done and I called it a night. Tommorow is the bracket assembly to hold the switch. I will use 1/8" flat sheet for it bent to 90 degrees. It will be right next to the battery box mounted to spare tire right wall. I think im going to do it in two pieces bolted together for adjustability as it's going to be a pain getting it set correctly so the shaft doesn't bind.

HAHA I didn't notice the car was this filthy untill I saw the pics. It looks like it went through nuke fallout. I'll get her cleaned up for the last pics. It doesn't look that dirty under the flourescent lights, but the camera picked it up. ;)

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1765.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1766.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1767.jpg
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

Looks good! :)

So I take it with the switch installed, the trunk cannot be opened?
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Looks good! :) So I take it with the switch installed, the trunk cannot be opened?
[/div]

Yeah, as it sits now. But haven't cut the channel yet for the shaft. I did not want to cut this far down, but i want the shaft to be parrallel with the ground and be easy to push and pull with no binding.
I will have to open the trunk a little and stick my left arm in there on switch to hold the ball and socket and screw the shaft of the handle to it. No biggie, just an extra step in setting up for a race. Although this is the only race i think i'll ever have to use the T handle in, as it's not required at my track or they haven't noticed i have a rear mounted battery? ;)
I will have to cut a channel above the shaft in the pics to make this work and be able to open the trunk. The shaft has a ball and socket pivot and will raise up with the trunk a little for me to be able to get my arm in there.
I wish i could of run just a simple Morrosso on off switch in the tail light like the Mustangs guys do, but i don't know how they are getting away with it at the track when the rules call for a Push to Kill switch?

1995 DK Blue Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK Blue Chevrolet 1500 P/U
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

I wonder if you could two-piece the shaft. Have the tee handle and a short threaded extension to go through the trunk lid. Unthread the tee handle and extension for street trim and trunk access. Then simply thread the tee handle and extension in place at the track. Locktight the ball/socket end of the shaft so it does not unthread.
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I wonder if you could two-piece the shaft. Have the tee handle and a short threaded extension to go through the trunk lid. Unthread the tee handle and extension for street trim and trunk access. Then simply thread the tee handle and extension in place at the track. Locktight the ball/socket end of the shaft so it does not unthread.
[/div]

The ball and socket has a lock nut on it so it can be locked. I thought of a two piece design too, but would of been alot more involved than this way. I needed to get this done. lol I would of liked the two piece design alot better but it would of needed a support bracket the front part of shaft could rest on inside of trunk while outside little outside piece was disconnected. It would of been alot cooler design because the trunk would not need to be opened.
Here is some pics of the cutout for the shaft i did tonight and one of the cardboard model of the bracket that will be made tommorow to mount the switch on.


1995 DK Blue Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK Blue Chevrolet 1500 P/U

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1775.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1776.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1777.jpg
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Very professional looking install, Jeff! :)
[/div]

Thanks Mike, but it's not done yet. :) I still want a lil red LED back there for power on. Next to the pull handle when it's live. Was going to go green, but thought i would get harrassed by not having red in the rear of vehicle.
Getting bracket bent tommorow of 1/8" steel at the machinist shop. He's got that high power hydraulic bender that can do nice 90 degree and 45 degree bends. It will basicly look exactly like that cardboard one without that diagonal brace in the middle to scale but be painted black.

1995 DK Blue Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK Blue Chevrolet 1500 P/U
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

Having not read any of the rules that you are trying to comply with I was just wundering aloud if you could have used the antenna hole to mount this switch lever. Just leaving the handle (Ball ?) to stick up enough to clear for stroke length, and remove the shaft and ball when not racing using a cap to cover the hole.

In any event I can appreciate the need for these devices as I had a friends car incinerate at the line when a fuel leak caught fire and there was no way they could get into the trunk to disconnect the battery as the electric fuel pump just continued to feed the fire.

Keep up the good work.
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Having not read any of the rules that you are trying to comply with I was just wundering aloud if you could have used the antenna hole to mount this switch lever. Just leaving the handle (Ball ?) to stick up enough to clear for stroke length, and remove the shaft and ball when not racing using a cap to cover the hole.In any event I can appreciate the need for these devices as I had a friends car incinerate at the line when a fuel leak caught fire and there was no way they could get into the trunk to disconnect the battery as the electric fuel pump just continued to feed the fire.Keep up the good work.

Thanks Roadboss, I too agree with the safety thing and am not complaining, but i dont really view my car as one of the sub 12 second big dog's running spray actually requiring this. But who knows, maybee in the future ill be needing this :eek: and it will already be done. Heres a pic of the bracket i had welded up yesterday and i will be installing today.
Mann i wish i could weld..this thing was expensive! as my regular mod shop was closed and i had to bend over and pay big to get it from different shop. Think one of those Lincon 110 volt welders could accomplish something small like this? I dont have a big 220 power outlet in my house. Heres the pic. I already started drilling the holes for the mount, and will do the adjustable slots up top for the switch today.


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1779.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1780.jpg
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

Cool, i'll look into it for my next Christmas present to myself next year. Thanks guys. lol Well i stayed up till 3:00AM yesterday finishing up the batt switch install. Sanded and rattlecanned the brackets, and I yanked the battery box and cut off the last installers crimped wires and put new end links on with solid connections and rerouted and cleaned up the wires adding rubber grommets everywhere.
The only thing i need to do now is add another hole for the vent tube to outside. I searched all my moving boxes and could not for the life of me find the clear tube that came with the batt box. lol I'll pick up another one at Lowe's tommorow.
Heres the final pics, work's great.

1995 DK Blue Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK Blue Chevrolet 1500 P/U

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1786.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1788.jpg


http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1789.jpg
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

That's a sweet looking install! :D Kudos on the good work!

Ran across an interesting discussion on another board...

A spill-proof battery such as an Optima does not need to be in a battery box, just securly mounted.

You only need an emergeny on/off switch if you are running a fuel pump that is directly wired to power.

Since my factory pump system already has an emergency shutoff underneith the trunk liner plus it shuts off anyways if the crash sensors are disrupted so I am A-OK.

And also guy said even if I did have an aux fuel pump and not the switch it would probably be passed since it's a street car.
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
That's a sweet looking install! :D Kudos on the good work!Ran across an interesting discussion on another board...A spill-proof battery such as an Optima does not need to be in a battery box, just securly mounted. You only need an emergeny on/off switch if you are running a fuel pump that is directly wired to power. Since my factory pump system already has an emergency shutoff underneith the trunk liner plus it shuts off anyways if the crash sensors are disrupted so I am A-OK. And also guy said even if I did have an aux fuel pump and not the switch it would probably be passed since it's a street car.
[/div]

Thanks for the compliment JP. Arrgggg haha Now you tell me. lol I'll be needing another battery soon as i just had to recharge this one from sitting for a month straight.
Are Optima batteries really that much lighter than their competition? I know they use them in the AF aircraft, so vibration and G forces don't hurt them. And you get to keep the billet bling cover. lol Just move it to the trunk area. ;)

1995 DK Blue Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK Blue Chevrolet 1500 P/U
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

I use the Hawker Odyssey - PC1200LMJT Dry Cell Battery. Lighter? Ummm... maybe, it's smaller than the OEM replacement, but it's still not a lightweight at 33 pounds.

I know a guy who frequents the track and has went with one of those mini-batteries, Dyna-Batt, in lieu of relocating the battery.

http://www.performancedistributors.com/dynabatt7.jpg
http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm

I've thought of using this 13 pound wonder for the track...

http://www.gotbatteries.com/images/SLA/37L105S1.jpg
Hawker (Enersys) Genesis (0769-2007 G16EP) 12 Volt/16 Amp Hour Sealed Lead Acid Battery - Bolt Terminal

Twenty pounds off the front end is nothing to sneeze at. }( If I did go that route, I would want to have a power device that would maintain memory to the PCM, clock, etc... for when I swapped the batteries.
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

If I did go that route, I would want to have a power device that would maintain memory to the PCM, clock, etc... for when I swapped the batteries.

I agree, resetting my headunit and radio presets and EQ w/stations is getting old. Im sure a nice fat capacitor would do nicely for a quick switch of batteries. Well have to bug the stereophiles on the board for clues as to what the hot setup for headunits and possible ECM memory holding capabilities there are out there nowadays.
I used to be heavy into the stereo thing but now it doesnt matter that much to me. I don't know what the new mod for memory retention with no battery connected is now. I think i rememeber on of my installer friends using a 9 volt battery setup he wired to hold the radio/EQ presets he plugged into the cigarette lighter when he was working on car without battery connected?


1995 DK Blue Lincoln Mark VIII
1998 DK Blue Chevrolet 1500 P/U
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
I think i rememeber on of my installer friends using a 9 volt battery setup he wired to hold the radio/EQ presets he plugged into the cigarette lighter when he was working on car without battery connected?[/div]

Same thought here.

But I would want it more like the CMOS battery in your PC... always there to maintain enough juice for memory. If I had to rely on remembering to plug the device in a cigarette lighter, my clock reset button would be wore out. :7
 
RE: Rear battery cutoff switch.

The Rotunda (Ford) memory module is just that. A cigar plug connected to a 9 volt battery. Plain and simple. It won't run the car, but it will keep the electronics stable and preset when you disconnect the battery. Just go to Radio Shack and get 3 things. A cigar plug (RS #270-1521 @ $8.49), a five pack of 9 volt battery connectors (RS # 270-324 @ $2.59) and 1 - 9 volt battery (RS #23-875 @ $3.49.
Connect the red wire from the 9 volt connector to the red post on the cigar plug and the black wire to the black post. Snap in the battery and place the adapter in your cigar socket. From there, you can disconnect the battery.
Do not leave the unit in the socket after you have re-connected the regular battery. It will eventually heat up and either destroy or explode the 9 volt battery. It is used for a temporary power supply.
Make sure that everything in the car is turned off, like the heater/ A/C, all lights, key off, etc. and then plug this little adapter into the cigar lighter socket in the console. Go directly to the car's battery and disconnect it. Do your work and reconnect the battery and remove the adapter ASAP. If you like, you can also run 8 AA, C, or D cells (For D cells - RS # 23-880 @ $9.99 for 8) in a holder (2 - RS # 270-396 @ $1.89 each) from Radio Shack. That would give you the 12 volts+ and with a size D battery, also give you lots of time to work on the car. This time connect 1 red wire from one of the battery boxes to the black side of the other battery box so that they are in series. Then connect the battery wires the same as the 9 volt model. Use electrical tape to put it all together and then use it as above.
This will keep the mirror, seat positions, radio station presets and any other memory dependant modules with power to keep the memory chips alive and well. It also keeps your driving stratagy in the PCM.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top