Scanner help

matt

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Ok I thought I had a blown head gasket, but when I went to put new plug wires on two were backwords. When I put the wires back where they should go it ran perfict for about a min then the check eng light came on and and it ran ruff and the tach was jumping around so i ran the codes and I got...............

341- CMP signal noise/octane adj pin used
212- No tach input to processor- spout
216- coil 2 primary CKT fault
116- ECT or EOT snsr out of range
538- cyl bal test fail-restart test


My miles to empty went down from 100 to 80 just from starting it up to test things before i switched the plugs wires to the right firing order. if anyone can tell me what you think is wrong that would be great. Thank you, Matt
 
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341- CMP signal noise/octane adj pin used
212- No tach input to processor- spout
216- coil 2 primary CKT fault
116- ECT or EOT snsr out of range
538- cyl bal test fail-restart
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DTC 116 - ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

Possible causes:

-- Low coolant level (ECT).

-- Ambient temperature below 10°C (50°F) (IAT).

-- Faulty harness connector.

-- Faulty sensor.

Obviously check the coolant level and for the test to be valid, the ambient temperature should be above 50*F.

The ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor is located in the coolant crossover tube. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a thermistor whose resistance decreases as coolant temperature increases and increases as coolant temperature decreases (Negative Temperature Coefficient or NTC). The PCM measures the voltage drop across the ECT Sensor and uses this input to help calculate fuel delivery, and engine cooling fan requirements.

It has a 2 pin harness plug(C173) with LG/R(Light Green w/ Red stripe) and GY/R(Grey w/ Red stripe) wires. Disconnect and inspect the harness connection for corrosion. Worst case would require a new sensor.

DTC 212 - Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded.

Continuous Memory DTC 212 indicates a loss of IDM input to the PCM.

Possible causes:

-- Open circuit.

-- Shorted circuit.

-- Damaged ICM.

-- Damaged PCM.

This is most likely the cause for the tach reading being intermittent as well.

DTC 216 - EEC detected coil 2 primary circuit failure

This in combination with DTC 212 indicates a fault in the Electronic Ignition System. This is a very involved circuit to diagnose but could be as simple as a faulty connection, a bad coil or a faulty Ignition Control Module.

DTC 341 - Octane Adjust shorting bar is not in or the OCT ADJ circuit is open.

Pretty self explanatory. The PCM measures the voltage drop across the Octane Adjust Plug and uses this information to modify ignition spark advance.

DTC 341 indicates OCT ADJ shorting bar is not in or the OCT ADJ circuit is open.

~ Key off.

~ Visually inspect in-line connector.

~ Is shorting bar removed?

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/forum/user_files/1846.jpg

The Octane Adjust harness is usually located under the drivers side strut tower cover. It will appear as depicted above with the harness connector containing DG(Dark Green) and GY/R(Grey w/ Red stripe) wires. Visually inspect the shorting bar is in place and the connection is free of corrosion. BTW, the ICM(Ignition Control Module) also resides under the same strut cover. Inspect that harness connection as well.

DTC 538 - Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error

This is a procedural error in the Engine Running Self-Test. Clear the code(s) and re-test.
 
RE: Scanner help

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Ok I thought I had a blown head gasket, but when I went to put new plug wires on two were backwords. When I put the wires back where they should go it ran perfict for about a min then the check eng light came on and and it ran ruff and the tach was jumping around so i ran the codes and I got............... 341- CMP signal noise/octane adj pin used 212- No tach input to processor- spout 216- coil 2 primary CKT fault 116- ECT or EOT snsr out of range 538- cyl bal test fail-restart testMy miles to empty went down from 100 to 80 just from starting it up to test things before i switched the plugs wires to the right firing order. if anyone can tell me what you think is wrong that would be great. Thank you, Matt
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Just shooting from the hip I'd recommend verifying that you've got the right wires on the right plugs. Those particular codes look relevant to a wire-plug mismatch.
 
RE: Scanner help

First of all, ignore the 116, "ECT outside of self test range". The engine wasn't at operating temperature when you did the test.

Next, ignore the 341, "octane adjust in use". It probably is.

Next, ignore the 538. The PCM couldn't do a power balance test under these circumstances.

The 212 and 216 in combination usually mean an internal ignition module failure.

At this point, to be sure, I'd hook up Ford's Ignition Diagnostic Tester, which plugs into the module and the vehicle harness and has lots of cool flashing lights and meters to tell me if I have pulse from CAMP and CKP sensors, output pulses to the coils, and PCM/ICM continuity.

You don't have that luxury.

Driller has taught me to think beyond my tools, so here's how you can do the tests you need.

216 means you'll concentrate on the right ignition coil for now.

Lift the spark plug wires ~ 1" off of the right coil towers with a pair of insulated pliers while cranking the engine. See if you've got spark from all four towers.

You probably won't.

Do the same on the left side. If you've got spark on that side, you know your crank sensor is OK.

If you have no spark on the right coil, check for power to it. Unplug the three wire connector. Turn the key on. The R/LG wire should be live.

Check for ground pulse from the ICM (ignition control module) to that coil with the connector still unplugged. Put the alligator clip of your test light on the positive battery post and crank the engine while probing the T/W and T/O wires. They should both ground pulse and make the test light flash.

If they do, and you're missing spark at any or all towers on that coil when you plug it back in, you need a coil.

If they don't, (assuming you don't have broken wires between the coil and the module and you have spark at the other coil), you most likely need an ignition module. It's under the plastic cover on the left shock tower.

Let us know what you find.
 
RE: Scanner help

I will do all of that. I was guessing it was the ICM because it runs the tach, cps and all the coils and thats where my codes were coming from. Thanks! I will do the tests and let you know. Matt
 
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Lift the spark plug wires ~ 1" off of the right coil towers with a pair of insulated pliers while cranking the engine.See if you've got spark from all four towers.

You probably won't.

Do the same on the left side. If you've got spark on that side, you know your crank sensor is OK.

If you have no spark on the right coil, check for power to it. Unplug the three wire connector. Turn the key on. The R/LG wire should be live.

Check for ground pulse from the ICM (ignition control module) to that coil. Put the alligator clip of your test light on the positive battery post and crank the engine while probing the T/W and T/O wires. They should both ground pulse and make the test light flash.

If they do, and you're missing spark at any or all towers on that coil when you plug it back in, you need a coil.

If they don't, (assuming you don't have broken wires between the coil and the module and you have spark at the other coil), you most likely need an ignition module.
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Good Info!!! :)
 
RE: Scanner help

Ok I tested the drivers side coil, it has power and spark, i tesed the pass side coil cly 3&5 have no spark! do i get a new coil now? matt
 
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Ok I tested the drivers side coil, it has power and spark, i tesed the pass side coil cly 3&5 have no spark! do i get a new coil now? matt
[/div]

Follow through with...

check for power to it. Unplug the three wire connector. Turn the key on. The R/LG wire should be live.

Check for ground pulse from the ICM (ignition control module) to that coil with the connector still unplugged. Put the alligator clip of your test light on the positive battery post and crank the engine while probing the T/W and T/O wires. They should both ground pulse and make the test light flash.

If they do, and you're missing spark at any or all towers on that coil when you plug it back in, you need a coil.

If they don't, (assuming you don't have broken wires between the coil and the module and you have spark at the other coil), you most likely need an ignition module. It's under the plastic cover on the left shock tower.


If you have power and ground pulse, you need a new coil. I would replace in pairs if that's the case.
 
RE: Scanner help

Ok I switched coils and the same 3&5 cly are getting no spark so that tells me my coils are good.
 
RE: Scanner help

If you have power on the R/LG AND ground pulses on BOTH the other wires, there's no question. You need a coil.
Replace the bad one to get the car running properly and to see if you've got any other problems you need to address.

Driller's right. It makes sense to replace coils in pairs because if one went bad, the other's on its way out too.

For your own peace of mind, don't go out and buy some cheap-ass $20 Pepboys coils!! Get ones you'll be able to trust!

One option is to buy a Ford/Motorcraft coil.

Another is to buy something like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&N=700+4294839065+4294890813+115&autoview=sku

They're about the same price as the Ford units, give you a little hotter spark, and everyone I know who uses them opens their plug gap up to as much as .065" for a bit better burn.
 
RE: Scanner help

Are you SURE you have ground pulses to both Tan wires? Did you actually test them at all?

If you've got spark from towers #1 and 6 you surely have ground pulse on the T/W.
#3 and 5 are triggered by the T/O wire. If you swapped coils and still have no spark at those same towers, you can't possibly have ground pulse on that wire!

Use an ohmmeter to check continuity between that pin at the coil and the other end of the wire at the ignition module.
Is the wire good?
Is it open circuit?
Is the pin in the coil connector OK?
Is the ignition module connector clean and free of corrosion?

If one of the coil drivers is dead, your tach is going nuts, and there's the code 212 to deal with, you may still be looking at an ignition module.

What did I say? Oh, yeah..." The 212 and 216 in combination usually mean an internal ignition module failure."

These modules aren't cheap. Check everything else out before just buying one and bolting it on!
 
RE: Scanner help

I havent tested the ground pulses yet i have little tools like an ohmmeter, im gonna have to borrow one. but i did switch the coils and 3%5 still have no spark and all my wires are ok and my coils are ok, so I know ill have to test it to make sure the ICM is bad. if it is bad, i found a used one on e-bay for $50. should i consider buying it off e-bay? You guys have given me really good info and im greatful Thanks
 
RE: Scanner help

Over the years, I've lost track of the time I've spent undoing the damage caused by customers installing used electronic components that were often in worse condition than their original pieces. I don't like using them.

That being said, your ICM, Ford part # DY-755-A, retails up here for CAN$ 423.00. The price will be comparable down there. A $50.00 part might be worth trying.

Still, and I repeat myself, FOLLOW THROUGH ON YOUR TESTS. Don't jump the gun. If you can't actually measure the resistance of the wire, at least do a careful visual inspection.

You may have something as simple as the ICM connector not locked into place properly or a bit of corrosion on a pin!
 
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I bet for $20 you could pick one up at a local junkyard if you could find one with a Gen1/OBD1('93-'95) Mark VIII.
 
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Of course!

For a low enough price, it would be worth the gamble.

Still, the question remains: does Matt really NEED an ICM? We don't know for sure yet.
 
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For a low enough price, it would be worth the gamble.[/div]

That's my point.

There's no returns on electrical parts, new or used. If you buy new you best be ready to eat it if it doesn't fix your issue.

Now for $20, I'd gamble if I was reasonably assured it could fix my issue. $50? Nah...

A $2 test light now is another no-brainer. ;)
 
RE: Scanner help

I went by the local junk yard and got a ICM for $15 and two motocraft coils for $20 from a 94 town car with 50,XXX miles on it, ill follow through with the tests and let you know. Matt
 
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I went by the local junk yard and got a ICM for $15 and two motocraft coils for $20 from a 94 town car with 50,XXX miles on it...[/div]

Good luck! :D
 
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