Shocks...

Ok, the shop confirmed my suspicions...worn shockmounts in the rear. I knew that knocking is suspicious...LOL!

So, while replacing the shock mounts, it only makes sense to do the shocks at the same time, as they are still the original ones at 116k.

What would you guys recommend? I checked around for direct fits, because from all what I know, the Cobra shocks need some mods on the mounts to fit. So far I found the original Motorcraft, Monroe Sensa-Trac and Monroe Matic Plus. Any opinions or other recommendations? Anything else the shop should take care of while already screwing with the shocks?

Thanks for all the help already in advance,
Marcus.

RE: Shocks...

The mods for the cobra shock are minimal. You need a different bolt for the top, and you have to drill out the mount sleeve a 1/16 of an inch. It seriously takes about 5 minutes.

Scott

RE: Shocks...

That does not sound too bad, Scott...and my shop is pretty good, so they should have no problems doing it. Source for them is still FPN, or do you have any suggestions/prices?

Thanks,
Marcus.

RE: Shocks...

I like Torrie at FPN. You'll need the shocks and the mounts.

Scott

RE: Shocks...

Isn't there someone in the classified section trying to get rid of a pair? http://users3.ev1.net/~acashiola/ot/dunno.gif.

Actually you dont NEED to drill out the shock mounts. You have another option which leaves you the ability to switch the shocks back to the original ones without ruining the shock mounts. The cobra shocks come with a metal cover over the end of the shock which everyone assumes you must fit into the shock mount when in actuallity you do not. This metal cover with a chissel and hammer can be taken off very easily and then the shocks can be put directly on your car.

I've dont this and there have been no problems. Cheers

RE: Shocks...

Mycophiles, pictures!!! =)

Marcus,

That is probably something you and I can do. *evil grin* Listen, let me know when you are going to have it done. I need mine done too...=D

RE: Shocks...

You can do that, but then the shock doesn't fit tight in the mount. It can wobble around, even if you get it tight, you don't have a good positive fit.

Drilling them out is so easy if you have a press, and even if you don't not hard - something a shop should be able to do with ease.

Scott

RE: Shocks...

Sure I let you know, John! I hope to get my car into my shop next week if I can somehow manage it to get the shocks and mounts by then...they already have experience in doing it then from mine ;-) This clunking really drives me nuts! LOL!

Marcus.

RE: Shocks...

I talked to several people about this issue and have come to the conclusion that it doesnt matter. This is my novice oppinion so take it as such.

I talked to several mechanics about this problem and all of them said that this wouldnt be a problem. My mechanic was the one who voiced the most concern and gave me some shims to put in so there for support. This is an easy fix and if you think that because the shock doesnt fit the shock mount it would have no support and rattle etc. I have been using the shocks without the shims and not having been drilled out and have had no problems with 2k miles into it now.

I didnt take pics so I wouldnt be able to show you exactly what I did but its easy to explain.

At the end of the shock is the screw which you feed through the shock mount and screw down from inside the trunk. This 'screw' at the top of the shock mount is too short. The reason why it's too short is because there is a metal cylander which covers up half of the shock screw(screw). This cylander is what doesnt fit inside the shock mount and requires you to drill out the shock mount. If you look at the cylander which covers half the shock screw it has a seem along the side which you can use to spread with the help of a vice/ sledge and wedge. Just 2 hard hits divided it and the shocks went right on. Like I said. I haven't had any rattles from the back shocks so I'm guessing that this way works perfectly.

RE: Shocks...

You can do that, but then the shock doesn't fit tight in the mount. It can wobble around, even if you get it tight, you don't have a good positive fit.

Drilling them out is so easy if you have a press, and even if you don't not hard - something a shop should be able to do with ease.

Scott

Click to expand...

How would you have a "positive fit" to begin with. There are no 'seats' for the shock to fit in. I see that it's more of a true fit when the shock mount is drilled out but then one can argue, "Exactly how much pressure is put on the side of that shock,up near the top there"?

If I were autocrossing the car. Then yea, I'd drill out the shocks just for that added 2lb's of pressure difference but otherwise I wouldnt bother.