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INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
- Thread starter ROBET01
- Start date
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
Actually, when you get in and drive, it raises about and inch, then lowers back down to parked height.
If you still want to disable the lowering, you can turn off the air-ride switch, or cut off the suspension computer altogether. This page has schematics:
http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/airsuspension2.htm
Kale
Actually, when you get in and drive, it raises about and inch, then lowers back down to parked height.
If you still want to disable the lowering, you can turn off the air-ride switch, or cut off the suspension computer altogether. This page has schematics:
http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/airsuspension2.htm
Kale
GRAND_LS 400
Registered
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
I have the same issue, and it gets too bouncy on the highway, and a little TOO low.
I wish there was just a way to kill the speed lowering thing without turning off the air suspension.
Does anyone know how to bypass the high speed lowering feature? I've sensor dropped my '96 Mark about an inch and a half but don't like the ride over 65MPH since the car drops another inch. Help!
I have the same issue, and it gets too bouncy on the highway, and a little TOO low.
I wish there was just a way to kill the speed lowering thing without turning off the air suspension.
GRAND_LS 400
Registered
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
There is a speed sensor within those pins.. cant you ground that? or get rid of it somehow? so the car would not know the speed your going?
http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/suspension/bothconnectors.gif
There is a speed sensor within those pins.. cant you ground that? or get rid of it somehow? so the car would not know the speed your going?
http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/suspension/bothconnectors.gif
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
If you take away the speed sensing, you may as well unplug the module. I don't think it would work w/o it. I think you'd get an error and if so the system would shut down.
By taking away the lowering at speed, you're taking away the raising at decreased speed as well. So, if you want your car to NEVER adjust, wire the system so that it shuts down 90 seconds after the car is started. This is the max compressor run time so the car should be up by then. A simple time delay relay would work for that duty.
Kale
If you take away the speed sensing, you may as well unplug the module. I don't think it would work w/o it. I think you'd get an error and if so the system would shut down.
By taking away the lowering at speed, you're taking away the raising at decreased speed as well. So, if you want your car to NEVER adjust, wire the system so that it shuts down 90 seconds after the car is started. This is the max compressor run time so the car should be up by then. A simple time delay relay would work for that duty.
Kale
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
From the dirgram above the speed sensor is pin #3. I would think the speed sensor is a simple switch it is either on or off because the car is either raised or lowered. The height sensors tell it how much to to raise or lower. So to disable it one would either need to supply it with a constant voltage all the time or no voltage all the time don't know for sure without looking at the ckt digram but it would stand to reason that a no voltage/signal on this ckt/pin would make the car lower because that is what happens when you shut off the car and close all the doors. So to keep it up one would need to provide a constant voltage source to that ckt/pin all the time. Even if the pin gets its signal from the computer I am sure it is either in an on or off state. If you measure the voltage at pin #3 when the car is raised idleing in your driveway and again with the car dropped key off doors closed you should be able to tell what you need to do. If the voltage is the same the the ckt probally grounds itself out in one position or the other.
From the dirgram above the speed sensor is pin #3. I would think the speed sensor is a simple switch it is either on or off because the car is either raised or lowered. The height sensors tell it how much to to raise or lower. So to disable it one would either need to supply it with a constant voltage all the time or no voltage all the time don't know for sure without looking at the ckt digram but it would stand to reason that a no voltage/signal on this ckt/pin would make the car lower because that is what happens when you shut off the car and close all the doors. So to keep it up one would need to provide a constant voltage source to that ckt/pin all the time. Even if the pin gets its signal from the computer I am sure it is either in an on or off state. If you measure the voltage at pin #3 when the car is raised idleing in your driveway and again with the car dropped key off doors closed you should be able to tell what you need to do. If the voltage is the same the the ckt probally grounds itself out in one position or the other.
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
The VSS is not an on or off switch - Jerry Heep elaborated on it once before. I believe he said it was an AC generator. The manual says it is a signal generator located inside the transmission. If it was on or off, then how could it know when you hit 65mph?
The suspension computer relies on data from the speed sensor during everyday driving - to take it away, is to take the computer away.
Kale
The VSS is not an on or off switch - Jerry Heep elaborated on it once before. I believe he said it was an AC generator. The manual says it is a signal generator located inside the transmission. If it was on or off, then how could it know when you hit 65mph?
The suspension computer relies on data from the speed sensor during everyday driving - to take it away, is to take the computer away.
Kale
JackDonkey
Registered
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
Maybe you could wire a resistor or something inline to trick the car into thinking you drive 5-35 mph everywhere.
Maybe you could wire a resistor or something inline to trick the car into thinking you drive 5-35 mph everywhere.
Neontail97
Registered
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
I wired another air ride shut off switch under the dash. If you do this all you'd have to do is shut the switch off before the car lowers to parked height such as after the ignition is shut off and before you get out.
Depending on the condition of your bags you'll need to turn it on every few days to get the car back to normal height. You may want to consider changing the height. I have my car lowered so when its at it lowest point (cruising or parked) the ride is good and I can clear road debris or small dead animals.....usually. There was a dead raccoon on the road yesterday and I thought I'd clear it but it made a hell of a clunk on the frame. I guess it was bigger than it looked.
Anyway I just shut the switch off before I start the car so it won't raise. I'll turn it on if I'm loading the trunk, putting someone in the back seat, or driving over rough terrain and need more clearance. No matter I turn it on a couple times a week to keep the system in good working order.
I wired another air ride shut off switch under the dash. If you do this all you'd have to do is shut the switch off before the car lowers to parked height such as after the ignition is shut off and before you get out.
Depending on the condition of your bags you'll need to turn it on every few days to get the car back to normal height. You may want to consider changing the height. I have my car lowered so when its at it lowest point (cruising or parked) the ride is good and I can clear road debris or small dead animals.....usually. There was a dead raccoon on the road yesterday and I thought I'd clear it but it made a hell of a clunk on the frame. I guess it was bigger than it looked.
Anyway I just shut the switch off before I start the car so it won't raise. I'll turn it on if I'm loading the trunk, putting someone in the back seat, or driving over rough terrain and need more clearance. No matter I turn it on a couple times a week to keep the system in good working order.
GRAND_LS 400
Registered
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
man.. I wish I can do that.. I have no skills when it comes to auto electricity.
man.. I wish I can do that.. I have no skills when it comes to auto electricity.
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
Jason,
Have you ever had the problem of trying turn off the air-ride switch on the freeway and having nothing happen? There was someone else who experienced that problem but I wasn't sure who it was. This happend to me a few times when I had mine wired like that.
Kale
Jason,
Have you ever had the problem of trying turn off the air-ride switch on the freeway and having nothing happen? There was someone else who experienced that problem but I wasn't sure who it was. This happend to me a few times when I had mine wired like that.
Kale
Neontail97
Registered
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
Kale,
I think I was the someone else. I recall asking you last year some time. If I shut the switch off while at cruising speeds the car still raises when I come to a light. The problem is it doesn't raise completely. The front comes up a little then the compressor shuts off. Definitely does not run as long as it normally would. The rear does not come up. This must be a programming bug of some sort. I'm sure the engineers didn't plan on the switch being shut off while the car is moving since its in the trunk.
Come to think of it I've even had this happen when I shut the air ride off after I start the car and let it pump up.... before actually moving. The switch is off, I get to cruising speed, slow back down, and the compressor comes on briefly. I say about 5-10 seconds. So if I want the car to stay in the up position, I'll shut it off after I park, engine off, but before I exit.
I would love to see the software program for this system...even better be able to change it like can be done with performance chips.
Kale,
I think I was the someone else. I recall asking you last year some time. If I shut the switch off while at cruising speeds the car still raises when I come to a light. The problem is it doesn't raise completely. The front comes up a little then the compressor shuts off. Definitely does not run as long as it normally would. The rear does not come up. This must be a programming bug of some sort. I'm sure the engineers didn't plan on the switch being shut off while the car is moving since its in the trunk.
Come to think of it I've even had this happen when I shut the air ride off after I start the car and let it pump up.... before actually moving. The switch is off, I get to cruising speed, slow back down, and the compressor comes on briefly. I say about 5-10 seconds. So if I want the car to stay in the up position, I'll shut it off after I park, engine off, but before I exit.
I would love to see the software program for this system...even better be able to change it like can be done with performance chips.
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
Yes, I noticed that you mentioned you would shut it off before starting the car, that's kinda why I asked. The switch does not kill power to the module completely so that is one reason. Maybe the others are safety related. There are things it won't do because it could damage the vehicle, like not lowering when a door is open (could catch a curb with the door).
Kale
Yes, I noticed that you mentioned you would shut it off before starting the car, that's kinda why I asked. The switch does not kill power to the module completely so that is one reason. Maybe the others are safety related. There are things it won't do because it could damage the vehicle, like not lowering when a door is open (could catch a curb with the door).
Kale
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
OK so it is a signal generator either AC or DC at any rate at some point it trips a on - off reaction in the computer correct?
In other words the car is either raised or lowered. It does not go from a raised position and then drop 1/4" at say 25mph then 1/2" at 40mph then 3/4" at 50mph etc. As I understand the system to work it drops a full 1" or 1 1/2" (whatever the amount) all at the same time when one reaches about 65mph.
So if one put the correct input onto pin #3 all the time the car would never change height. I would suspect that the computer is looking for a certain voltage level say from 0 to 6.5 volts it keeps the car in the raised position. When it reaches it's "set" point (say 7 volts) it drops the car and keeps it there until the voltage drops below another "set" point (say 4 volts) then it pumps back up and stays there until you reach 7 volts again. Having two set points keeps the car from constantaly going up and down if you happen to be driving at just the right speed to produce 7 volts the first "set" point.
The computer might be looking for a certain milli-amp signal instead of voltage but the same principle would still apply.
In most industrial control circuits a 4 to 20 milli-amp signal is what is used in all types of applications (flow meters, pressure sensors, temp. sensors, level indicators, etc. etc.)
When we wanted to trick out the computer for testing etc. all that was needed to do was to override the sensor and input the signal we wanted the computer to see.
OK so it is a signal generator either AC or DC at any rate at some point it trips a on - off reaction in the computer correct?
In other words the car is either raised or lowered. It does not go from a raised position and then drop 1/4" at say 25mph then 1/2" at 40mph then 3/4" at 50mph etc. As I understand the system to work it drops a full 1" or 1 1/2" (whatever the amount) all at the same time when one reaches about 65mph.
So if one put the correct input onto pin #3 all the time the car would never change height. I would suspect that the computer is looking for a certain voltage level say from 0 to 6.5 volts it keeps the car in the raised position. When it reaches it's "set" point (say 7 volts) it drops the car and keeps it there until the voltage drops below another "set" point (say 4 volts) then it pumps back up and stays there until you reach 7 volts again. Having two set points keeps the car from constantaly going up and down if you happen to be driving at just the right speed to produce 7 volts the first "set" point.
The computer might be looking for a certain milli-amp signal instead of voltage but the same principle would still apply.
In most industrial control circuits a 4 to 20 milli-amp signal is what is used in all types of applications (flow meters, pressure sensors, temp. sensors, level indicators, etc. etc.)
When we wanted to trick out the computer for testing etc. all that was needed to do was to override the sensor and input the signal we wanted the computer to see.
RE: INHIBIT HISPEED LOWERING
>So if one put the correct input onto pin #3 all the time the car
>would never change height
Or you could turn off the air ride switch.
>When we wanted to trick out the computer for testing etc. all that
>was needed to do was to override the sensor and input the signal we
>wanted the computer to see.
I'm not so sure exactly what you did, but from my experience, I could trick it when the car was not moving, but when the car was driven, it was a different story. When the car starts and the compressor runs, the car should raise. If the sensors are stationary, the car is going to error after 90 seconds because it "can not detect raising or lowering of vehicle", the signal coming from the sensors should change. Same thing goes for when you hit 65.
If you wire a relay that kills power to the computer and have it either feed off a manually operated switch, or an input from any other source, you can successfully stop the car from lowering at speed. What I found on my car was that I had to kill power at 1 and 21 in order to be able to bring the system back online. You also have to break the connection leading back to the message center because you will get an "air ride off" error. And if you'd rather not think about it, use a time delay relay that kills the power after 90 seconds and have it reset automatically when the ignition is turned off.
Kale
>So if one put the correct input onto pin #3 all the time the car
>would never change height
Or you could turn off the air ride switch.
>When we wanted to trick out the computer for testing etc. all that
>was needed to do was to override the sensor and input the signal we
>wanted the computer to see.
I'm not so sure exactly what you did, but from my experience, I could trick it when the car was not moving, but when the car was driven, it was a different story. When the car starts and the compressor runs, the car should raise. If the sensors are stationary, the car is going to error after 90 seconds because it "can not detect raising or lowering of vehicle", the signal coming from the sensors should change. Same thing goes for when you hit 65.
If you wire a relay that kills power to the computer and have it either feed off a manually operated switch, or an input from any other source, you can successfully stop the car from lowering at speed. What I found on my car was that I had to kill power at 1 and 21 in order to be able to bring the system back online. You also have to break the connection leading back to the message center because you will get an "air ride off" error. And if you'd rather not think about it, use a time delay relay that kills the power after 90 seconds and have it reset automatically when the ignition is turned off.
Kale