RE: Klunking suspension
The lower control arm can be replaced as a unit which will include a new ball joint and bushing. I would also advise replacing the strut rod bushings while you are at it. Then you will have a whole new front end and your popping sound should dissappear. I think the sway bar bushings would be the last thing to wear out. I suspect the popping sound is comming from your strut rod bushings. here are some instructions/advice I had written up on installing the MN12 poly bushing kit. You should fine the info you need to change out the lower control arms:
The front MN12 kit will require a hydraulic press, also it will help if you have a set of bearing cups. You might be able to rent those or borrow some from a local parts store. I did get by without them but it was a real PITA I took a piece of 1 1/2" pipe and filed reamed etc. out the inside to get it to work. I also ran into a problem with one of the front strut rod nuts. I could not get it to break loose, even managed to get the rod out with the nut still on, put it in a vice and used a 400 ft./lb. impact wrench on it and it still would not come off. So I had to cut it off and buy a new nut at the local hardware, it is a 20mm with 2.5 pitch need a 30mm wrench. One side I was able to take off with just a 12" crescent wrench. To remove the strut rod from the frame you should pry off the big washer on the front side not the rear. Job could be done without air tools but I am not sure I would suggest it.
The best way is to loosen/break everything loose before you take any on part off. Then I would disconnect the lower ball joint. If you use a fork type tool to take it out you will damage the seal if you are going to replace it anyway don't worry about it. But if you are going with the same ball joint you need to back the nut off to the end of the stud and hit the crap out of it with a big hammer and a brass punch and or hit the spindle arm (not the spindle itself) and drive it up off the lower control arm. I also ran into a problem with the lower control arm bushings in the MN12 kit you need to reuse "cupped washers" from the old bushings. Problem was my "old bushings" did not have cupped washers on there. I called Rich from MN12 and the only thing we could come up with is that somewhere along the line someone must have replaced the bushings with an after-market brand that did not use the washers. Bottom line is I had to buy another set of new rubber bushings to steal the washers off of, to the sum of another $42 bucks. Also in the directions it said to just tap the washers on the new bushings with a hammer. Ha Ha good luck I had to press them on then the washers were compressed buy the metal sleeve and the bolt would not go through so I had to file out the damn thing enough just to get the bolt to go through.
All in All I would suggest you skip the front bushing kit and just buy two new lower control arms about $110 each. They include the new ball joints and new bushings they may not be poly but it is a lot less work. I am not sure if you will get new strut rod to control arm bushings with the new lower control arm or not but you should, if you don't you can buy the same thing the MN12 kit contains from ford. Also I read a post a few days ago that ponyfreak had installed some TRW poly strut rod bushing I assume they were the ones that connect to the frame. Another thing is the MN12 kit for a Mark VIII did not come with upper control arm bushings like the ad shows but you do get a discount of $30 because they are not included. Also I forget which kit it is supposed to be in but you do not get a new tranny mount the T-Bird one is different than the Mark VIII one per Rich. As for the sway bar bushings you don't need them if you are buying a bigger sway bar, it comes with new poly bushings, the outer tie rod end boots are just to keep the grease clean will not help handling in any way.
The rear knuckle install is not too bad. You will need a gear puller (bought one at sears for about $25),a big set of metric wrenches & sockets up to about 26mm I think, a 36mm deep socket, threaded rod and fender washers like in directions, and a good vice. In the directions it has an "Optional method" of a way to do this with knuckle still on the car, this might work on a T-Bird but unless you have mystical powers it won't work on a Mark VIII. Some good new though you don't have to remove the half shaft from the differential.
To get the knuckle off. jack up car remove tire, brake caliber, brake caliber mounting bracket, and roter.Take off the hub bolt 36MM socket and impact wrench or breaker bar and a lot of muscel. Next take out top knuckle to control arm bolt, loosen both bottom bolts, now you will notice it appears there is no way to remove one of the bottom bolts because the half shaft is in the way. Take your gear puller and clamp to the edge of the hub and the center on the half shaft this should break the shaft loose from the hub. I had no problem with mime, but if it is too tight they do make a hub puller which is just a gear puller that bolts onto the studs instead of locking around the edge. Once you break the halfshaft loose you will have to push it in toward the center of the car pull the knuckle out and pry up on the shaft all at the same time to remove one of the lower knuckle bolts. It is easier with two people but can be alone. I used the gear puller with a socket on the end to push on the half shaft a 2x4 to wedge the half shaft up and was able to pull on the kncukle and tap the bolt out all at the same time. A little tricky but it can be done.
The next task is getting the old bushings out. Just follow the directions getting the old ones out it's not too bad just use a big fender washer and push out the whole thing at one time.
Next install the new bushings. I would suggest you take some fine emory cloth and clean out the control arm hole because it is a tight fit. The top bushing just pushes in most of the way. the directions say to tap it with a hammer to get it fully seated but I found it easier to just squeeze it together with a big C-clamp. (note make sure you put the bushing in facing the correct direction fat end toward rear of car). The lower bushings are harder but not too bad follow the directions with the threaded rod and squeeze the bushing in as far as you can not just half way the way the direction say. The bushing will turn sidways get all deformed looking and everything else, just keep on tightening the the nuts on the rod and it will pop into place. After you get it in as far as you can with the rod, take it out but DO NOT insert the sleeve yet as the directions say. Hit the bushing hard with a rubber hammer or dead blow hammer (plastic hammer filled with sand) the bushing will pop all the way through then insert the sleeve and tap it into place.
Installing the knuckle back on the car is just the reverse of how you took it off. A little tricky to get everything lined up just right but it can be done by yourself if you have too.
The IRS bushings are the easiest of all. I have a 94 Mark with stock exhaust. I just had to take loose the two rear mounting brackets at the mufflers, push the exhausat system as far as possible toward the drivers side, and then tie it off with some rope or wire. This will give you just enough room to get to the bottom nut with a socket and extension. After you remove the bolt the directions say the old bushing will just slide out, the bottom half must be pryed out and then the top will slide out. I used a socket and extension to tap the sleeve into the new bushing. Passenger side is no problem because nothing is in the way.
