Gen 2 - Cobra Intake Swap

DLF

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Finally started working on this.

I've had a brand new Cobra intake sitting in the garage for quite a while, time it was on the car. :cool:

Plans:

1. Retain EGR - I have several Cobra EGR tubes in stock, and I plan to make a hybrid tube using one of them along with the stock EGR tube.

2. Install two 90 degree, 3/8" vacuum fittings at the rear of the lower manifold where there are now 2 bolt bosses.

3. FRPP IMRC Delete Plates - I also have these in stock and since my car doesn't spend much time below 3K RPM's and I've got 4.10's, I don't think it'll be an issue. And I already know how to tune for the deletes as i've had them on my Cobra for close to ten years now.

4. Cobra Fuel Rail - I've already installed the required Russell fittings to attach to the stock hard lines.

5. Cobra Throttle and Cruise cables.

6. 30 lb. Gen III Bosch fuel injectors.

7. Accufab Oval TB.

8. '03 Cobra intake tube, retain stock airbox.


There's probably more, but that's all I can think of at the moment. ;)

Next task is removing the IMRC controller and the stock EGR tube. :frown:

I'll add details and pics to this thread as I progress (slowly) with the swap. :wave:
 

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2. Install two 90 degree, 3/8" vacuum fittings at the rear of the lower manifold where there are now 2 bolt bosses.
4. Cobra Fuel Rail - I've already installed the required Russell fittings to attach to the stock hard lines.

As you progress, if you could show me these installed I would love to see them.:) And I'm sure we can both welcome ourselves to the 13 second club this year. I'm just waiting to go run it and submit my timeslip to Driller. :D

The swap is easy as pie. One good reason for owning a Gen2. Not so easy on the Gen1s
 
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Glad you're finally starting it Doug. Good luck. My plans are kind of on hold due to some unforeseen expenses recently. Hopefully later this summer I can get it all done. In the mean time it's good to have another example to go by. Make sure you take s***loads of pics! (although I know you're already good at that) ;)

1. Retain EGR - I have several Cobra EGR tubes in stock, and I plan to make a hybrid tube using one of them along with the stock EGR tube.
Good! I keep hearing people say this can be done but I've seen no one actually do it. I intend to keep mine as well. Being a tree hugger and all. :cool:

2. Install two 90 degree, 3/8" vacuum fittings at the rear of the lower manifold where there are now 2 bolt bosses.
Once again, great minds think alike. I want to put vac fittings on the back of mine too so it's plug and play and no tees. My only concern with the L fittings is having them work loose from the engine torquing in the engine bay. I suppose red loctite would alleviate the problem. I had planned on having a guy weld a box onto the back and have straight fittings on the top. Same effect, different effort involved. The thing I can't figure out is what is hooked up to the shorter fitting back there. The brake booster line is, oddly enough, attached to the passenger side fitting. I can't see what's attached to the drivers side one and can't really even feel anything back there.


4. Cobra Fuel Rail - I've already installed the required Russell fittings to attach to the stock hard lines.
Wait, so you're going to keep the Mark VIII hard lines? Can you explain how that'll work? They come out on the wrong side.
 
My only concern with the L fittings is having them work loose from the engine torquing in the engine bay.

There's NO WAY that engine torque pushing against a vacuum line is going to loosen a properly installed fitting. :p

The brake booster line is, oddly enough, attached to the passenger side fitting. I can't see what's attached to the drivers side one and can't really even feel anything back there.

The other fitting is where the main vaccum line for everything else (FPR, EGR, etc.) attaches. You can see the disconnected end in the red circle in the first pic and the connected line in the second pic.

Wait, so you're going to keep the Mark VIII hard lines? Can you explain how that'll work? They come out on the wrong side.

The hard lines that I'm referring to are the ones between the fuel tank and the wheel well, not in the engine compartment. See the pics below. Russell p/n's 640853 and 640863.
 

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Once again, great minds think alike. I want to put vac fittings on the back of mine too so it's plug and play and no tees.

FWIW, Even with the addition of a couple of fittings on the back of the Cobra intake, this isn't going to be "plug and play". :frown:

The FPR and EGR locations are on opposite sides and there's no longer a need for a vacuum attachment to the fuel pulse damper on the stock fuel rail.

All I'm trying to do is minimize the changes. ;)
 
Joe, Just bring the parts to Carlisle. We'll do the install Live! Under the big top! inbetween beers, and broken vodka bottles.
 
Joe, Just bring the parts to Carlisle. We'll do the install Live! Under the big top! inbetween beers, and broken vodka bottles.

What I'm worried about are the parts I may not already have, and the availability of being able to get them at Carlisle...
 
Once again, great minds think alike. I want to put vac fittings on the back of mine too so it's plug and play and no tees. My only concern with the L fittings is having them work loose from the engine torquing in the engine bay. I suppose red loctite would alleviate the problem. I had planned on having a guy weld a box onto the back and have straight fittings on the top. Same effect, different effort involved. The thing I can't figure out is what is hooked up to the shorter fitting back there. The brake booster line is, oddly enough, attached to the passenger side fitting. I can't see what's attached to the drivers side one and can't really even feel anything back there.

Here's a better look at the fittings on the back of the stock intake and the stock vacuum line that connects to the lower fitting.
 

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Did a quick test fit today after removing the stock EGR tube and IMRC controller, along with the rather large metal bracket that it mounts to.

Look like the biggest issue with an EGR tube (other than fabricating it :rolleyes:) is going to be the wiring harness at the back of the driver's side valve cover that isn't there on a Cobra.

Now I have to decide if I want to retain the EGR bad enough to try and overcome the problem. :confused:

If I delete the EGR, then I can run a vacuum line from the block-off plate to the brake booster, and not have to mess with installing any fittings on the back of the lower manifold.

I might also delete the AIR system, which will make the vacuum hose issue much less complicated.

Decisions, decisions.....

Also a pic of the FRPP IMRC delete plates.
 

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Look like the biggest issue with an EGR tube (other than fabricating it :rolleyes:) is going to be the wiring harness at the back of the driver's side valve cover that isn't there on a Cobra.

Now I have to decide if I want to retain the EGR bad enough to try and overcome the problem. :confused

What about using the stock Cobra EGR setup with the DPFE and solenoid attached right to the intake? Kind of ugly, granted, and you'd still need to reroute a lot of wires, but at least it would eliminate some of the stuff back there besides the IMRC controller.
 
What about using the stock Cobra EGR setup with the DPFE and solenoid attached right to the intake? Kind of ugly, granted, and you'd still need to reroute a lot of wires, but at least it would eliminate some of the stuff back there besides the IMRC controller.

Maybe I didn't explain well enough.

The issue has nothing to do with the DPFE or solenoid.

The issue is the wiring harness for the COP and injectors that runs around the back of the valve cover. The Cobra EGR tube would be right on top of the wiring harness and melt it. Relocating that harness would be quite difficult and making an EGR tube that goes around it may be overly complicated.

Here's a pic of the wiring harness on my LSC and a comparision pic from my Cobra showing how close the tube is to the valve cover.
 

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Looks like the only option, if one is determined to keep the EGR, is to run the EGR tube under the harness, not over it. That means splicing another two or three inches into every wire that runs forward and then raising the main harness up with a bracket or something. That triangular shaped "box" could be eliminated and replaced with a split loom and pushed further down into the space between the intake and the valve cover, like it is on the Cobra. From what I can see on mine, the only reason the box is there is to keep the harness clear of the FPR. I see no other purpose for it unless it's some kind of RF shield.

Bear in mind this all all theoretical, don't jump all over me. ;)
 
I'm going to look at it again in the morning, but I've just about decided that it's not worth the trouble.
 
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