- Rotor inspection -

Haskell

Registered
- Rotor inspection -

Recently I got tired of the wheel shake & dial indicated the rotors on the car. There is not more than .002" from either side when torqued up. I could see a varying 'brown color' around the rotor & so I decided to get the rotors off & removing the residue w/a open mat style of a buffing disc for stripping paint. It seemed to work well but took a bit of time. The rotors didn't look like a turned part but pretty much all of the residue was gone except down in the shallow lines. These rotors are say, 10,000 mi. old & were cryro treated before I installed em. I noticed the shake beginning about 5,000 after they were new.

So, the deal worked great for about a day. No shake at all but it showed just how much of the residue was left to build on & it obviously does it real quick. So my oppinion is that the surface must be machined just enough to get the surface new. But the same thing is comming again as we know.

I would think there is a formula out there in pad composition that wouldn't transfer over to cause this but that's the holy grail.


I tried riding the brakes once, for a half mile or so in an attempt to cook off the build up & that was no help. ------ I drive this thing like a baby & definatly am easy on the brakes. The original discs were just plain wore out but did not shake. Never noticed the brown build up on them. Also, I've noted here that it seems not to be a pad differance from Ford to aftermarket.

I have a 75 Ford pick up with the original rotors at 150,000 & I never see this 'brown residue', the rotors are always clean & never had a wheel or pedal shake. Doesn't make sense.
 
RE: - Rotor inspection -

RE: - Rotor inspection -

Hello and welcome.

What brake pads do you use not to see a difference?

My old school advice? Buy organic Motorcraft brake pads, change them more often than lifetime pads and wash the wheels more often. I've heard that the brake pad composition has changed over the years and my next set may not work out... but IMHO the cheaper MotorCraft brake pads worked best for me. By organic, I was told they contained walnut shells, quite popular back in the day but fading fast in modern times(no pun intended).

BTW, it is good practice to check runout and minimum thickness on rotors, but I always use 3m ScotchBrite pads and a drill adaptor or die grinder to buff the rotor surfaces and pads to a new clean surface - whether putting the old back on or replacing with new.

I have a set of cross drilled rotors and new unknown pads waiting to put on my '93 and I hope I don't regret the experience, but something tells me once I move away from the OEM setup I have now, it's going to be dicey at best.
 
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