couldnt you just

Eric1

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i was wondering about changing the upper and lower ball joints on these cars. i searched but found no one who attempted this. but couldnt you just press new upper and lower ball joints in to the control arms you already have? i am sure they would have to be considerably cheaper than replacing whole control arms.
i was just wondering if this was possible and if anyone had the part numbers to do it
Eric
 
RE: couldnt you just

From the manual...

Ball Joint, Lower


Tools Required:

l Ball Joint Remover D89P-3010-A

l Cup D84P-3395-A4

l C-Frame T74P-4635-C

l Ball Joint Replacer D89P-3010-B


Removal

1. Remove lower control arm as outlined.

2. Remove and discard joint boot seal.

3. Clamp control arm in a vise.

4. Press out ball joint using Ball Joint Remover D89P-3010-A and Cup D84P-3395-A4 or equivalent. C-Frame T74P-4635-C or a press may be used to press out ball joint.

Installation

NOTE:
When installing a new ball joint, it is advisable that the protective cover be left in place during installation to protect the ball joint seal. It may be necessary to cut off the end of the cover to allow it to pass through the receiving cup.

1. Install ball joint with Ball Joint Replacer D89P-3010-B, Cup D84P-3395-A4, and C-Frame T74P-4635-C. A press can be used instead of the C-frame.

2. Discard the protective cover and check the ball joint to make sure that it is fully seated in the control arm, and that ball joint seal is free of cuts or tears.

3. Install lower control arm as outlined.

4. Check wheel alignment.

Ball Joint, Upper

The upper ball joint is part of the upper control arm and is not serviceable separately. Replacement of an upper ball joint requires replacement of the complete upper control arm assembly.
 
RE: couldnt you just

hey leo sorry i have been away i had some major fiancial problems which kept me away from alot of stuff then my father had 2 heart attacks so i was helping take care of him including moving him down from his house upstate and stabilizing him and lastly i was finally able to get my bariatric surgery done in november (down 60 lbs already woo hoo) and i have been slowly regrouping from there.
thank you everyone for all your concern while i was away.

jp thank you for the info i figured you would need to replace the whole upper arm but am glad you can do the lowers with out too much drama
thank you.
Eric
 
RE: couldnt you just

[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
jp thank you for the info i figured you would need to replace the whole upper arm but am glad you can do the lowers with out too much drama
[/div]

I just paid da man to do it all on my front end, R&R the uppers and replace the lowers. One upper and one lower was bad or something like that along with upper control arm bushing problems. Once all was said and done, uppers, lowers and all the bushings, including a 4 wheel alignment, my wallet was about $800 lighter. But the car drove like 800% better. ;)
 
RE: couldnt you just

Lowers, yes, you can press a new one in. However, on both my mark 8's, i've had the lower control arm bushing fail before the ball joint on one side, and the ball joint never went out on the other side. The bushing is not sold seperately from the control arm. Also, having done it both ways, i'd rather pay the extra $75 or so (what the whole arm costs over just the ball joint) than press the ball joint in and out.

The uppers can't be pressed out, you need to replace the whole arm.
 
RE: couldnt you just

yah i figured as much. the car is good but when i make a tight left hand u-turn the car stumbles like its walking its quite un nerving. i was thinking of pressing the hub bearings though i have a freind whom is a bearing dist and when i get the number off the bearing im just gonna do that better than dropping 80 bux a side four times (2 cars).
thanx
Eric
 
RE: couldnt you just

The stumble you are referring to may not be an indicator of any kind of problem. Just in case, lift the front end up a little and grab the top of the spindle to check for play in the upper control arms. The lowers are a little tougher. Support the front of the car, put a jack under the control arm/ball joint and slowly and carefully lift it a little so it's not sitting at full rebound. Then put a pry bar under the tire and try to lift up, and check for play in the ball joint. Try to move it whatever way you can to make sure. Also take a close look at the strut rod bushings. Those tend to go also, but you will see when those are bad.

If all that's good, you're likely feeling the effects of less than 100% ackerman steering.

When a car travels in a circle, the inner wheels follow a tighter radius than the outer wheels. Therefore, the inner wheel needs to turn at a greater angle. What angle depends on wheelbase and track, mostly, and must vary with steering angle. If the wheels turn exactly so that neither one is dragged sideways, you have 100% ackerman steering. But in reality you have something between 0% (both wheels turn the same angle) and 100%. The reason for this is that the turning circle is defined by the average between the angles at the two front wheels, give or take. The inside wheel will be the limiting factor because of mechanical constraints. So they make the outside wheel turn a little further in, decreasing the turning radius and making it do that little hop thing when you turn tightly at low speeds.
 
RE: couldnt you just

i checked everything even the rack. the only reason i was even thinking of doing the bearings was as a pm type deal. i have ruled out that wheel hop thing long ago but figured as i was getting such knowledgeable reponses from you id pick you brain and see if the answer i had matched your take on the subject.
thank tyou again
Eric
 
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