I am new here but some of the knowledge some of you guys have on this site is remarkable. This forum was my deciding factor on buying a mark viii which is buy the way a 97. I have to change the brakes tomorrow after getting the rotors cut do to the wheel shiver which seems to be common. This is my first attempt at doing brakes but sure I can handle it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Oh is organic the way to go or what?
Brake pads
- Thread starter danny40
- Start date
RE: Brake pads
Welcome!
From the manual...
Removal
1. Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half-full. Discard removed fluid.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».
3. Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with front disc brake rotor shield (2K005) or wheel cylinder bleeder screw (2208).
4. Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386).
5. Note: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper (2B120) from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston (2196) or damage will occur.
6. Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support it with a length of wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
7. Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
8. Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
9. Inspect both front disc brake rotor braking surfaces. Minor scoring or build-up of lining material does not require machining or replacement of front disc brake rotor. Hand-sand glaze from both front disc brake rotor braking surfaces using garnet paper 100A (medium-grit) or aluminum oxide 150-J (medium).
Installation
1. CAUTION: Metal or sharp objects cannot come into direct contact with wheel cylinder piston surface or damage will result.
Use a 10 cm (4 inch) C-clamp and wood block 7 cm x 2.5 cm (2.75 inch x 1 inch) and approximately 19 mm (0.75 inch) thick to seat hydraulic caliper piston in its bore. This must be done to provide clearance for disc brake caliper assembly to fit over front disc brake rotor during installation. Extra care must be taken during this procedure to prevent damage to caliper piston.
2. Remove all rust build-up from inside of front disc brake caliper anchor legs (shoe contact area).
3. Install inner and outer brake shoe and lining assembly with clip-on insulators into front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
4. Install disc brake caliper onto disc brake caliper locating pin (2B296).
5. Install brake pin retainers. Tighten to 22-32 N-m (16-23 lb-ft).
6. CAUTION: Failure to tighten lug nuts (1012) in a star pattern may result in high rotor runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness, shudder and vibration.
Install wheel and tire assembly, using Rotunda Accutorq® Lug Nut Sockets 164-R0303 or equivalent on 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench or torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to 115-142 N-m (85-105 lb-ft).
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Pump brake pedal (2455) prior to moving vehicle to position brake shoes and linings. Refill brake master cylinder (2140) with Ford High Performance Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
9. Road test vehicle.
As far as pads, in my opinion, 'organic' is better. Usually you will find Motorcraft pads in two varieties, non-metallic(cheaper) and semi-metallic. For a daily driver I recommend the cheaper pads. After all it is much easier and less expensive to replace pads than replace other components.
Your mileage may vary of course and there are differing opinions.
Welcome!
From the manual...
Removal
1. Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half-full. Discard removed fluid.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».
3. Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with front disc brake rotor shield (2K005) or wheel cylinder bleeder screw (2208).
4. Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386).
5. Note: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper (2B120) from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston (2196) or damage will occur.
6. Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support it with a length of wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
7. Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
8. Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
9. Inspect both front disc brake rotor braking surfaces. Minor scoring or build-up of lining material does not require machining or replacement of front disc brake rotor. Hand-sand glaze from both front disc brake rotor braking surfaces using garnet paper 100A (medium-grit) or aluminum oxide 150-J (medium).
Installation
1. CAUTION: Metal or sharp objects cannot come into direct contact with wheel cylinder piston surface or damage will result.
Use a 10 cm (4 inch) C-clamp and wood block 7 cm x 2.5 cm (2.75 inch x 1 inch) and approximately 19 mm (0.75 inch) thick to seat hydraulic caliper piston in its bore. This must be done to provide clearance for disc brake caliper assembly to fit over front disc brake rotor during installation. Extra care must be taken during this procedure to prevent damage to caliper piston.
2. Remove all rust build-up from inside of front disc brake caliper anchor legs (shoe contact area).
3. Install inner and outer brake shoe and lining assembly with clip-on insulators into front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
4. Install disc brake caliper onto disc brake caliper locating pin (2B296).
5. Install brake pin retainers. Tighten to 22-32 N-m (16-23 lb-ft).
6. CAUTION: Failure to tighten lug nuts (1012) in a star pattern may result in high rotor runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness, shudder and vibration.
Install wheel and tire assembly, using Rotunda Accutorq® Lug Nut Sockets 164-R0303 or equivalent on 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench or torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to 115-142 N-m (85-105 lb-ft).
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Pump brake pedal (2455) prior to moving vehicle to position brake shoes and linings. Refill brake master cylinder (2140) with Ford High Performance Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
9. Road test vehicle.
As far as pads, in my opinion, 'organic' is better. Usually you will find Motorcraft pads in two varieties, non-metallic(cheaper) and semi-metallic. For a daily driver I recommend the cheaper pads. After all it is much easier and less expensive to replace pads than replace other components.
Your mileage may vary of course and there are differing opinions.
RE: Brake pads
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Oh is it possible to get both of the tires to smoke at the same time, or is it limited slip or whatever its called.
[/div]
http://photos.imageevent.com/driller/2006racing/websize/md040906b.jpg
All Mark VIIIs are open differential from factory.
A limited slip differential can be installed. Several manufacturers are available.
[div class="dcquote"][strong]Quote[/strong]
Oh is it possible to get both of the tires to smoke at the same time, or is it limited slip or whatever its called.
[/div]
http://photos.imageevent.com/driller/2006racing/websize/md040906b.jpg
All Mark VIIIs are open differential from factory.
A limited slip differential can be installed. Several manufacturers are available.
RE: Brake pads
I use the ceramic brake pads. They don't leave much brake dust on the wheels.
I have a stock open differential. I can still get both wheels to spin.}(
http://www.mark8.org/users/billcu/burn.jpg
I use the ceramic brake pads. They don't leave much brake dust on the wheels.
I have a stock open differential. I can still get both wheels to spin.}(
http://www.mark8.org/users/billcu/burn.jpg
RE: Brake pads
Different pads for different people. Assuming you want pads for a daily driver:
1. Organics for folks looking to save money and who drive normally.
2. Ceramic for folks looking to reduce noise and brake dust; they have the worst initial stopping grip, but they don't fade as much as organics.
3. Semi-metallic for those who want better performance at the cost of brake dust and some noise.
4. Kevlar (EBC Greenstuff) for those looking for the best overall performance in a daily driver. No noise, but brake dust is still there (despite their advertisement). Very good grip and fade resistance.
FYI, I've used all pads except for ceramic...mainly because I've never had a problem with noise, and I get the car washed often enough that brake dust can't accumulate. I am currently using Semi-metallic pads, but I really miss the Greenstuff pads and will probably switch back to those. They can be found now for around $80.
Different pads for different people. Assuming you want pads for a daily driver:
1. Organics for folks looking to save money and who drive normally.
2. Ceramic for folks looking to reduce noise and brake dust; they have the worst initial stopping grip, but they don't fade as much as organics.
3. Semi-metallic for those who want better performance at the cost of brake dust and some noise.
4. Kevlar (EBC Greenstuff) for those looking for the best overall performance in a daily driver. No noise, but brake dust is still there (despite their advertisement). Very good grip and fade resistance.
FYI, I've used all pads except for ceramic...mainly because I've never had a problem with noise, and I get the car washed often enough that brake dust can't accumulate. I am currently using Semi-metallic pads, but I really miss the Greenstuff pads and will probably switch back to those. They can be found now for around $80.
