Thermostat

L

Leecon

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I have a new 180 degree thermostat that I was going to install. Since it gets so hot here in South Central Texas, I'm thinking about just running without one at all until I need heat this winter. Let it run as cool as possible. I've done this on older cars a lot, do you think this would cause any problems with my Mark.

Thanks for your input.

Lee
 
RE: Thermostat

I went to a lower temperature thermostat for the same reason. It should be OK with no thermostat. However, you may affect your gas mileage. These are heat engines. The cooler they run, the less efficient they are. I've measured a 1 to 2 MPG LOSS due to going to a 185 degree stat from a 195.

But with our summers..that is a small price to pay.
 
RE: Thermostat



I Would be very careful running without a thermostat. I have heard the colant can pass through the radiator to fast and not give up enought heat. Don't know that for sure. If it runs hot without one, that may be why.

Wayne
 
RE: Thermostat

Actually, I'm going to disagree, sir.

Increasing coolant flow through a radiator should improve the heat transfer characteristics of the system, not decrease it. This is why "racing" type radiators are larger -- they allow more coolant flow.

On diesels, if you take out the thermostat, it is dang hard to get the coolant hot enough to heat the interior in the frozen winter.
 
RE: Thermostat

Cool, Then I won't worry about it. I'll just leave it out until the fall when I need heat. I want it run as cool as possible because of the summer heat and the way I drive. When I run that 500+ miles from San Antonio to El Paso @100+ mph it can be kinda warm.

Thanks for your input also.

Lee
 
RE: Thermostat

I've had heat problems with mine driving between Fort Worth and the house when the temperature was over 100 degrees. The lower 10-degree difference in the stat decreased my running temperature by a letter.
 
RE: Thermostat

I would highly recommend against using no T-stat. The pcm will not jive with the car never reaching normal operating temp. I'm sure many "in the know" people would agree. You can install a 160 T-stat if you wish - which would be a better choice (I would still go with a 180 however)
 
RE: Thermostat

Sure it will take longer to reach operating temperature. Maybe a minute longer, but I doubt it. That radiator has to dump a massive amount of heat, especially at 80+ speeds. But there is a limit of how much heat it can dump. It will not be able to dump so much heat that the motor never reaches operating temperature. The radiator is NOT that good (I wish!)

A diesel, yes. A gasser, no. It will get there.
 
RE: Thermostat

i went with the 160 T-stat and it runs really cool all year 'round. It never gets off the "L"

Also, you should get a chip that will turn the fans on sooner to keep it cool also.

I highly advise AGAINST running no T-stat.
 
RE: Thermostat

Lee Do NOT! run without a stat in this car. The cooling system is a bypass system which requires the use of a stat to function properly.
 
RE: Thermostat

Lee, I would suggest listening to Geno. Install a 180-degree thermostat, but don't run without one.

Geno is a pro and has forgotten more about Marks than I'll ever know.
 
RE: Thermostat

I knew Geno was right - but I'm not sure why.

Geno --- how come????

From what I know about hydraulics - there's flow and pressure - am I on the right track?
 
RE: Thermostat

Let me give it a try.

If it is a bypass type system, the thermostat does not cut off flow through the radiator to heat the coolant in the block like old cars/my diesel. To regulate the temperature, a bypass thermostat BYPASSES the radiator to heat the coolant or routes coolant to the radiator to cool things off. Without the thermostat, a bypass system will "short out" the radiator and you get minimal coolant cooling. Bad news for your motor after a few minutes.

Was that right Geno?
 
RE: Thermostat

Reinforces the saying, "you learn something new every day." It's has never run hot, and the operating temp has been consistent since day one. I was just thinking about trying to get it to run cooler just for longevity since our summers are so brutal.

Thanks for all the advice. Thats what I like about LOD, everyone is so willing to share their knowledge, and help each other.

Lee
 
RE: Thermostat

Exactly Jerry.

Lee, I run and reccomend the "Hypertech" part #1011 available through Summit Racing (1-800-230-3030) for $21.00 shipped.

This is a nipple by-pass style thermostat made for Hypertech by MotoRad. Unfourtunately since MotoRad did a huge deal with Hypertech youre also forced to pay the Hypertech prices as well. Still worth it anyway.

For coolant I use the Texaco Havoline "Dexcool" coolant. I have tried ALL the so called temperature reducers such as "Water Wetter" and such with NO decrease in overall coolant temperature under any conditions. I have seen small decreases in temperature from the Havoline "Dexcool" formula by itself.

Aslo despite what some may say this job is something you can do right in your driveway in about 30 minutes total.

I have done this swap in as low as 10 minutes.

Get yourself a 2ft extension on a 3/8 ratchet and a deep 10mm socket.

The use a 1/4 drive ratchet to remove the head filler for the coolant located on the top center/right of the engine, also romove the expansion tank fill cap. (see pic)

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/fill.jpg

Put the car on ramps, climb directly under the center of the car, the tstat housing is on the drivers side. (see pic below)

Stat Location picture with engine removed for ease of identification.

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/statlocation.jpg

If your still not sure of the exact location, just follow the upper drivers side radiator hose directly to the t-stat housing.

Then you just snake the deep 10 mm on the 2ft extension straight up to the bolts and break them loose.

The bolt closest to the drivers side requires a little prying of the housing to get the socket on it.

It is a little messy so be prepared for a coolant bath unless you want to fight the expansion tank hose off the back of the t stat housing and "Pre-Drain" (good luck)

Another tip for those of you who may have a hard time with the bolts there are two options that I have had success with.

1) Use a 3/8 impact gun set to medium to break them loose.
2)Undo them by hand when the car is at full operating temperature. Just break them loose and do NOT remove until cool.
Its easier to get them loose when hot.

When refilling the system, start the car with both filler caps open.

Immediately fill the head filler first until it brims, then fill the expansion tank next also to the brim.

Allow the car to run for up to 15 minutes until the stat opens then fill the head filler and tank in the same procedure as the first. Repeat until leveled off full on the expansion tank window.
What your doing here is burping all the air pockets in the system. Just to be safe I repeat this process one more time the very next day.

If you need any further informatin on this Lee, you have my number Buddy.



I hope this helps, Geno.
 
RE: Thermostat

Gene, I'm glad you're on this board. I love the photos you give with the directions, it really sheds light on things for us Visual learners. :)
 
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