Ok, so far I've....

Jker

Registered
Replaced all 8 spark plugs with 12C's gapped at "48".

Replaced all 8 spark plug wires with the MSD set for the Cobra.

Replaced my Fuel Filter.

Replaced my PCV Valve.

Changed out the old Mobil 1 for 6 quarts of fresh Mobil 1, of the 5-30 vintage.

Removed and tossed the Motorcraft Oil Filter, and installed a Mobil 1 oil filter.

Removed and placed into garage, the silencer from under the bumper.

Now, I was goinbg to replace the thermostat with the 180 degree one I bought, but I cannot get the "frame side" bolt ouit of the t-stat housing. I'm leary of jamming my 1/2 impact wrench up there, 1 because I know the 1/2" 10mm impact socket will not fit there, and 2, I've broken my 1/4" long extenstion trying to remove the bolt conventionally. I could throw my 3/8" 10mm socket onto my impact gun, but I guess I'm just skeered.

I did all the above stuff while dodging rain dropsterday. I did take the car out last night, and it ran great, but I still need to put that thermostat in.


Next up, Tranny Fun!!! Then maybe tires, and gears, and a chip, and maybe a MAF, then perhaps a stall convertor, OH and some new exhaust pipes.....


John
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

Should have used the Hypertech part# 1011 160 stat.

Heres an excerpt from an earlier thread that may help you.

Pay special attention to the red text.

Exactly Jerry.

Lee, I run and reccomend the "Hypertech" part #1011 available through Summit Racing (1-800-230-3030) for $21.00 shipped.

This is a nipple by-pass style thermostat made for Hypertech by MotoRad. Unfourtunately since MotoRad did a huge deal with Hypertech youre also forced to pay the Hypertech prices as well. Still worth it anyway.

For coolant I use the Texaco Havoline "Dexcool" coolant. I have tried ALL the so called temperature reducers such as "Water Wetter" and such with NO decrease in overall coolant temperature under any conditions. I have seen small decreases in temperature from the Havoline "Dexcool" formula by itself.

Aslo despite what some may say this job is something you can do right in your driveway in about 30 minutes total.

I have done this swap in as low as 10 minutes.

Get yourself a 2ft extension on a 3/8 ratchet and a deep 10mm socket.

The use a 1/4 drive ratchet to remove the head filler for the coolant located on the top center/right of the engine, also romove the expansion tank fill cap. (see pic)

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/fill.jpg

Put the car on ramps, climb directly under the center of the car, the tstat housing is on the drivers side. (see pic below)

Stat Location picture with engine removed for ease of identification.

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/statlocation.jpg

If your still not sure of the exact location, just follow the upper drivers side radiator hose directly to the t-stat housing.

Then you just snake the deep 10 mm on the 2ft extension straight up to the bolts and break them loose.

The bolt closest to the drivers side requires a little prying of the housing to get the socket on it.

It is a little messy so be prepared for a coolant bath unless you want to fight the expansion tank hose off the back of the t stat housing and "Pre-Drain" (good luck)

[font color=red]Another tip for those of you who may have a hard time with the bolts there are two options that I have had success with.

1) Use a 3/8 impact gun set to medium to break them loose.
2)Undo them by hand when the car is at full operating temperature. Just break them loose and do NOT remove until cool.
Its easier to get them loose when hot.[/font color=red]

When refilling the system, start the car with both filler caps open.

Immediately fill the head filler first until it brims, then fill the expansion tank next also to the brim.

Allow the car to run for up to 15 minutes until the stat opens then fill the head filler and tank in the same procedure as the first. Repeat until leveled off full on the expansion tank window.
What your doing here is burping all the air pockets in the system. Just to be safe I repeat this process one more time the very next day.

If you need any further informatin on this Lee, you have my number Buddy.



I hope this helps, Geno.
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

As a second vote - I followed the above TO THE LETTER including the warm run to break the bolts - and it worked.

Of course it took me about three hours to do the job - without benefit of a hoist - and 18 degree temps (lots of fun).

Just don't break the thing - AND - make sure the O-ring goes in LAST (I tried it the other way - it really doesn't work nearly as well).
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

Thanks for the advice, gentlemen. I'll cruise it around town a little to warm it, come home, throw it up in the air, and get to work.

I've got a 180 Motorcraft t-stat to go into it. Don't know why, call my a wuss or something, but I just didn't want to go down to 160. [shrug].
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

I have a gutted t-stat in the red car. I have a 170 in my garage that I need to put in there, but I was in a bind and needed something that would open and stay open so I could go to work the next day. So I cut the center section out of the t-stat. Only downside to it that i can see is in the winter time the car runs pretty cold exp down the interstate.
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

I too have run them without a themostat in the housing.It doesn't get very cold here, but it does get plenty hot.The car definately ran cooler without a thermostat in place.Might suck in cold weather though.
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

I still haven't swapped out the thermostat. Seems like everytime I pull the jack out of the garage, something else needs my immediate attention.

Anyway, I noticed when I drained the radiator on my first attempt at this, I only had about a gallon of anti freeze in the pan. It's not leaking, nor is it in the oil. I thought these systems used alomost 4 gallons of the stuff? How do you "drain the block"?

I put about 1 and a half gallons back into the system.

The temp gauge would creep up during some thrash sessions, but never "over heated". I assume that this is normal?
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

Which cap? I pulled the plug in the crossover pipe, the cap on the puke tank, and opened the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator.

Should I open the radiator drain and leave the caps on the crossover pipe, and resevoir? Will that somehow "pull" the rest of the coolant out of the block?

I opened both plugs to speed the drainage process. My bad if my impatence led to another stupid question.... What's the right way to drain this system?
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

To fully drain the system you have to break the t-stat to get all thats left in the heads.

You can also use a shop-vac on the lower hose as well as the upper.
 
RE: Ok, so far I've....

I get it now. As usuall, an ounce of common sense would save the blisters on my fingers from typing this.....
 
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