plugs and wires
- Thread starter D Day
- Start date
magic_marker
Registered
RE: plugs and wires
I changed my plugs and wires at about 79k (when I bought the car). They had been changed once before, but I wanted to err of the safe side.
As far as the 'home kit' goes, you are looking for a code reader/code scanner. These come up on Ebay (dirt cheap) ALL the time. The really snazzy ones (with LED readouts in plain english), will run you upwards of $150.
Just remember that '94-95 Marks are on OBDI/EEC IV. Most readers set up for OBDII code will NOT work with your '94, unless you buy a high-end code reader that does both. Also, make sure to buy a FORD code reader. The other model readers won't work.
I changed my plugs and wires at about 79k (when I bought the car). They had been changed once before, but I wanted to err of the safe side.
As far as the 'home kit' goes, you are looking for a code reader/code scanner. These come up on Ebay (dirt cheap) ALL the time. The really snazzy ones (with LED readouts in plain english), will run you upwards of $150.
Just remember that '94-95 Marks are on OBDI/EEC IV. Most readers set up for OBDII code will NOT work with your '94, unless you buy a high-end code reader that does both. Also, make sure to buy a FORD code reader. The other model readers won't work.
RE: plugs and wires
I changed mine slightly prior to 100,000 miles, and I believe they were oem plugs/wires that I replaced. I was having no issues at the time and did it for the 100K maintenance interval. I only wish I knew then what I know now - I would have not went stock plugs(stock gap) with Motorcraft wires(gray). I plan to change soon to 2 step colder plugs(can't decide either copper, platinum or iridium) with 9mm Ford Racing wires(blue or red).
Oh yeah, I better move that schedule up since I have almost reached 105,000 miles.
I changed mine slightly prior to 100,000 miles, and I believe they were oem plugs/wires that I replaced. I was having no issues at the time and did it for the 100K maintenance interval. I only wish I knew then what I know now - I would have not went stock plugs(stock gap) with Motorcraft wires(gray). I plan to change soon to 2 step colder plugs(can't decide either copper, platinum or iridium) with 9mm Ford Racing wires(blue or red).
Oh yeah, I better move that schedule up since I have almost reached 105,000 miles.
RE: plugs and wires
Having a 2nd gen, I don't have wires, but we decided to just change the plugs every year, since it's inexpensive and easy to do.
I went with the copper plugs since I plan on changing them as frequently as I do. Although good thing, there was rust on 2 of my plugs this time, the back two, probably from power washing the engine.
Having a 2nd gen, I don't have wires, but we decided to just change the plugs every year, since it's inexpensive and easy to do.
I went with the copper plugs since I plan on changing them as frequently as I do. Although good thing, there was rust on 2 of my plugs this time, the back two, probably from power washing the engine.
RE: plugs and wires
I remember coming across a spark plug mod a couple of times. It claims to increase HP due to more efficient spark. It involves only a few minutes of filing the ground electrode. Most ground electrodes are rectangular in cross-section and protrude across the center electrode entirely - sort of like a canopy. Take a small file and file the end back so the end is at the center of the center electrode and then round it off. This supposedly exposes more of the center electrode to the combustion chamber for a better flame front resulting in better ignition.
I believe they come gapped at 0.054 which is the stock setting. You should check them. Some use 0.048 as the gap setting. If you do see a need to change the gap, be sure to use a gapping tool. Prying against the electrode or hitting it can crack the insulator and damage the plug which could then self-destruct in service inside the combustion chamber.
I remember coming across a spark plug mod a couple of times. It claims to increase HP due to more efficient spark. It involves only a few minutes of filing the ground electrode. Most ground electrodes are rectangular in cross-section and protrude across the center electrode entirely - sort of like a canopy. Take a small file and file the end back so the end is at the center of the center electrode and then round it off. This supposedly exposes more of the center electrode to the combustion chamber for a better flame front resulting in better ignition.
DOHC MARK VIII
Registered
RE: plugs and wires
Good advice JP, the little tools to check the gap are usually very cheap (a buck or so). On my last plug change I did the "round off" of the corners on the electrode mod. I honestly couldn't tell any difference at all but it usually takes at least 10 hp to be felt in the "seat of your pants" dyno I use. It probably works but the gain is hard to feel.
Getting back to the basic plugs and plug life, although the stock plugs are part of the 100,000 mile tune up hype, they are so easy to change it's laughable....if you have the right tools. I change mine now once a year which is usually around 10,000 to 15,000 miles. I use the copper plugs because although they don't have the life of the stock platiums you do get better performance and are cheap. I first changed mine at about 30,000 miles and was amazed at the performance difference.
Last year while driving up to Carlisle I developed a skip and thought is might be a bad plug. I picked up a new set at WalMart and changed them in the motel parking lot in about 15 to 20 minutes (I do carry the right tools ) so it can be done quickly.....however what I had was really a bad plug wire .
** Bill **
1995 LSC-R'ed w/Recaro's and Cobra R's
Veteran of Carlisle 2000/01/02
[a href=//cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=258112]For Pic's and Mods click here[/a]
...Except for ending slavery, fascism, nazism, and communism, WAR HAS NEVER SOLVED ANYTHING...
Good advice JP, the little tools to check the gap are usually very cheap (a buck or so). On my last plug change I did the "round off" of the corners on the electrode mod. I honestly couldn't tell any difference at all but it usually takes at least 10 hp to be felt in the "seat of your pants" dyno I use. It probably works but the gain is hard to feel.
Getting back to the basic plugs and plug life, although the stock plugs are part of the 100,000 mile tune up hype, they are so easy to change it's laughable....if you have the right tools
. I change mine now once a year which is usually around 10,000 to 15,000 miles. I use the copper plugs because although they don't have the life of the stock platiums you do get better performance and are cheap. I first changed mine at about 30,000 miles and was amazed at the performance difference.Last year while driving up to Carlisle I developed a skip and thought is might be a bad plug. I picked up a new set at WalMart and changed them in the motel parking lot in about 15 to 20 minutes (I do carry the right tools
) so it can be done quickly.....however what I had was really a bad plug wire .** Bill **
1995 LSC-R'ed w/Recaro's and Cobra R's
Veteran of Carlisle 2000/01/02
[a href=//cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=258112]For Pic's and Mods click here[/a]
...Except for ending slavery, fascism, nazism, and communism, WAR HAS NEVER SOLVED ANYTHING...
RE: plugs and wires
Thanks for all your help, I did the plug change this past weekend using the 22c plugs you recomended gapped to 48. I didn't really notice a difference, but @ 72k the original plugs should go. They were all gapped at .55 when I pulled them. One thing I did notice was that the two plugs on the passenger side closest to the dash and the one closest to the dash on the drivers side are covered in rust. It looks like water is leaking in where the wiring harness comes in under the cover. Anyone else have this problem? Should I be concerned?
Brent
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~brenth/markviii/Brent's-Mark-VIII.jpg
Thanks for all your help, I did the plug change this past weekend using the 22c plugs you recomended gapped to 48. I didn't really notice a difference, but @ 72k the original plugs should go. They were all gapped at .55 when I pulled them. One thing I did notice was that the two plugs on the passenger side closest to the dash and the one closest to the dash on the drivers side are covered in rust. It looks like water is leaking in where the wiring harness comes in under the cover. Anyone else have this problem? Should I be concerned?
Brent
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~brenth/markviii/Brent's-Mark-VIII.jpg