Dragstrip Timeslip Manager Program!!

XLRVIII

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Possibly could someone "Sticky" this post?

Those of you that have PILES of timeslips might appreciate/enjoy having a database utility to help you evaluate your performance modifications, or just to keep all your timeslips in an easy to review program.

This program will "correct" your ET's based on conditions as well.

I FOUND the original download location....haha
download it here
http://www.geocities.com/93notch/TimeSlips/


screenshot of the program
timeslip.gif
 
Pretty good...though I wouldn't put much stock into the estimated HP based on ET and mph. I adjusted ET and mph until I got my real power numbers and ended up with 13.5@101mph. I don't think I'm quite that fast...
 
Pretty good...though I wouldn't put much stock into the estimated HP based on ET and mph. I adjusted ET and mph until I got my real power numbers and ended up with 13.5@101mph. I don't think I'm quite that fast...


Try putting in "correct data" and not trying to "fudge" numbers to make the "output what you seek".

I put in the correct data and accept that on THAT run my car might not have made the same HP as it did on a Dyno on "some other day".

when I put true numbers into the interface it gives back "very believeable numbers" that also seem to be very close to other HP caculators on the web.

Remember, G.I.G.O. when it comes to inputting data.
IF you put IN garbage numbers, you can expect GARBAGE numbers in the output.

Or maybe it's telling your car isn't "efficiently or effectively" using the available power?
Gearing Maybe?
Who knows with the GIGO manner the data is being applied.

PUT real numbers in... from actual timeslips.
 
Timeslip Database Tip:
If you look there is a DRAG database file.
You can copy that file and paste it in the same directory
This will allow you to keep a seperate data base for another car if you like.
Or use another database while your at the track for a log book, without having to worry about messing up your "original database".

And or you can have a seperate database for different events.
 
Try putting in "correct data" and not trying to "fudge" numbers to make the "output what you seek".

I put in the correct data and accept that on THAT run my car might not have made the same HP as it did on a Dyno on "some other day".

when I put true numbers into the interface it gives back "very believeable numbers" that also seem to be very close to other HP caculators on the web.

Remember, G.I.G.O. when it comes to inputting data.
IF you put IN garbage numbers, you can expect GARBAGE numbers in the output.

Or maybe it's telling your car isn't "efficiently or effectively" using the available power?
Gearing Maybe?
Who knows with the GIGO manner the data is being applied.

PUT real numbers in... from actual timeslips.

I'll try not to take that personally...I know what I'm doing.

I've gotten my power numbers from my last dyno runs. I didn't make them up.

I'm guessing the numbers are off due to gearing, power curve, complete lack of torque information, presence of limited slip, size and type of tires, etc.

My statement was merely stating that the projected power number estimates are probably going to be way off for most people.

Did you consider any of this before insulting my intelligence?
 
You take things WAY to personally.

Look at the data, dont try and make up data.

I ran some numbers thru that interface and it gave me back very beliveable numbers.

Take a stock mark 8.
4000LBS
Put in an "average" mark 8 ET.. 15.3
Put in an "average" mark 8 MPH 96MPH
then run the numbers

It says based on those numbers a stock mark 8 makes 282HP.. which is a mere TWO HP from the stock advertised numbers.

If you put in real numbers for your car and look at the resulting data, and try not to be "insulted".

The screen cap I posted above lends some information that is relevant to what you are saying.

look at the highlighted run in the screen cap.
Says the guys car MADE 325 HP based on MPH
BUT... his car at it's current weight would have only needed 318 HP to run that ET.

That is saying that in the screen cap above the guys car was NOT efficiently or effectivly using ALL the HP his car made.
Then if you look at the SAE corrected ET it says that "IF" that guys car had made the pass under "corrected conditions" AND "effectively and efficiently" used ALL the HP his car made he would have ran a 12.48.

Seriously try not to get offended by data, because my comments were not intended to insult you or your cars performance.

Apply what I said to the guys car that wrote that software.
It even tells HIM his car isn't using 100% of the power it's making.

But again.
Do you actually think your car makes the SAME HP today as it did on the "Dyno day"?
 
Or maybe it's telling your car isn't "efficiently or effectively" using the available power?
Gearing Maybe?


PUT real numbers in... from actual timeslips.

I'm guessing the numbers are off due to gearing, power curve, complete lack of torque information, presence of limited slip, size and type of tires, etc.

Did you consider any of this before insulting my intelligence?

Yes that is exactly what I said "could be happening" it was telling you, much like the creator of the program that for whatever reason, gearing maybe?
wasn't efficiently using the "available power".
Again wasn't a personal shot at YOU or YOUR car... just interpreting the data provided.

What happens when you put in real numbers from timeslips?
Rather than trying to fudge the numbers to reflect what you "Want" the program to tell you?
What gear did you make your DYNO run in?
 
What happens when you put in real numbers from timeslips?
Rather than trying to fudge the numbers to reflect what you "Want" the program to tell you?
What gear did you make your DYNO run in?

I don't have timeslips because the fascist Cali government is closing all the tracks - except for the worthless 1/8 mile tracks.

My dyno tune was done about six months (<2000 miles) ago, so I don't think my car has degraded much.

My dyno run was in 2nd gear...the dyno shop guys refused to run their dyno up to 160 mph. My power numbers are 239 rwhp and 249 rwtq. (The difference between 2nd and 3rd gear is a couple hp.) My approximation of MY flywheel hp is about 305, BUT, that includes a 10 hp (upwards) adjustment to account for my special Lonnie converter that TRULY locks up, delivering those 10 extra hp to the wheels. Lonnie will back me on that.

All that being said, I just realized that I ran those numbers assuming a weight of 3800, not 4000. Since me and my 200 lbs are also in the car, that would bring the ET up to 14.2...a more realistic number.
 
wayne, believe it or not.. 1/8th mile tracks are not worthless.
99% of your dragstrip "gains" will be had in the first 660' or 1/8th mile.

Consider a mark 8 such as yours goes 75-79MPH in the 1/8th and usually less than 100MPH in the 1/4 mile.

That right there says the 1/8th is probably "has more worth" than a 1/4 mile track...

Trust me here, or atleast TRY TO..
when I first got my car I refused to run "half a race" at an 1/8th mile track.

I like many others felt that "1/4 mile racing" was "real racing" and anything less was "not worth the time".
I made roughly 2500 1/4 mile passes before I met some folks that were having a "car club shootout" at an 1/8th mile track.

Reluctantly I attended... and did well...and honestly had ALOT of fun!
I was hooked.. we ran a few seasons with Car Club Bash, then migrated to the "friday night street stock race".

1/8th mile racing turned out to be very fun and exciting.
1/8th mile TNT might not be "as fun" but the data gained in an 1/8th mile run CAN adequatley evaluate your mods and your cars performance.

Head out to one of the 1/8th mile bracket races.. FREE your mind and HAVE SOME FUN.
Seriously.. give it a shot!

As for your "race weight".. I weight 200LB and my car with a full tank of gas with my FADDASS in the seat trips a NHRA calibrated scale at 3975.

I really need to run my car across that scale and GET OUT of the car, I'm thinking 3750-3800LBS without my tub of lard in the seat.
 
My dyno tune was done about six months (<2000 miles) ago, so I don't think my car has degraded much..

I didn't mean that your car had "degraded" since the Dyno run/tune.

What I was getting at is "current conditions" will greatly affect the HP your car is putting out.

use the timeslip database and "fudge with" the weather conditions, not just air temp, but baro and humidty.

Then go to weatherunderground and get the last few days stats.

you should see a pretty obvious indication that "one day to the next" you might pick up or lose 20HP.. which is significant.

I was amazed at how much a little air temp or a little humidity change actually affected HP.
 
you should see a pretty obvious indication that "one day to the next" you might pick up or lose 20HP.. which is significant.

I was amazed at how much a little air temp or a little humidity change actually affected HP.

Changes in temp are indeed bigger than people think. It can be easily estimated after converting to the Kelvin scale. A change of 3 degrees is aabout a 1% change in power.

For my scenario, I assumed a temp of 60 degrees (typical CA night) and 30 baro.
 
If I may say so, 1/8 mile runs are extremely FUN.

I heard many say the Mark was worthless in the 1/8 mile and it was a waste of time taking it to the track unless it was a quarter mile track. I don't think they could be more wrong. I can't tell you how many higher HP cars have lost to my '93 at the 1/8 mile, especially when there is little or no track prep or it is not even a sanctioned track. One of my favorite experiences is the 1/8 mile 'airport' events held around where I live. Those high dollar 'hi-power cars' just don't have the room to recover from their wheel spinning launches as the Lincoln jumps them from the starting line. :D
 
If I may say so, 1/8 mile runs are extremely FUN.

I heard many say the Mark was worthless in the 1/8 mile and it was a waste of time taking it to the track unless it was a quarter mile track. I don't think they could be more wrong. I can't tell you how many higher HP cars have lost to my '93 at the 1/8 mile, especially when there is little or no track prep or it is not even a sanctioned track. One of my favorite experiences is the 1/8 mile 'airport' events held around where I live. Those high dollar 'hi-power cars' just don't have the room to recover from their wheel spinning launches as the Lincoln jumps them from the starting line. :D

Unfortunately, too many ricer guys in southern CA have modded front wheel drive "launchers" (like Nissan Altima's) that are just too good off the line. I would never be able to catch up to them before the 1/8 ends.
 
Unfortunately, too many ricer guys in southern CA have modded front wheel drive "launchers" (like Nissan Altima's) that are just too good off the line. I would never be able to catch up to them before the 1/8 ends.

Come on Wayne, tell me your not letting the possibility of someone with a lesser vehicle beating you is keeping you from going to the track?

I line up agaist ANYone/anything.

Hell.. just last friday night I ran a FOX body mustang that ran deep into the 6's in the 1/8th.
But the guy only beat me to the stripe by less than a TENTH (MOV was .09)

Just because some kid in an altima MIGHT beat you, is no reason "not to go".
I consider those "losses" as a "lesson in humility".. no skin off my back

I got beat by a freaking VW and a Saturn on SPRAY and I laughed my *SS off the entire run.
Who cares if you win or lose at a TNT race...Seriously.

I kick the crap out of 12-13 second Subaru's with my 14 second luxoyatch.
Those guys dont "stop coming to the track" because Grandmas Car BEAT THEM.

GET to the track, even an 1/8th mile track.. get some passes under your belt and get that car into a bracket race where the drivers consistancy and the cars performance will WIN YOU MANY RACES!
(peer pressure smile)
 
I can use it for the log but i guess it doesn't work for 1/8 mile or i am not doing something right
 
I can use it for the log but i guess it doesn't work for 1/8 mile or i am not doing something right

No you are correct.. the program bases it's caculations off 1/4 mile ET and 1/4 mile MPH.

Here is where you CAN fudge the data if you are so inclined.

I have thousands of 1/4 mile passes.
there is a formula used to convert 1/8th mile ET into 1/4 mile ET.

you mulitiply the 1/8th mile ET X 1.53 and it will give you a very CLOSE estimate as to what your quarter mile ET would have been based on your 1/8th mile ET.

You get this "conversion ratio" by dividing 1/4 mile ET by the 1/8th mile ET
14.55 divided by 9.4936 =1.5326 <--see?

MPH is where it get's tricky...

USUALLY most mark 8's/cars will only pick up between 17-20MPH between the 1/8th and the 1/4 mile MPH.

just "add" 20MPH to your 1/8th mile MPH and that should get you into the ball park.

I picked one of my 1/4 mile timeslips at random, one of the 10 or so laying on my desk at work.

1/8th mile ET is 9.4936
1/8th mile MPH is 77.44
Actual 1/4 mile time on the slip is 14.55
Actual 1/4 mile MPH on the slip is 97.11

Multiply the 9.4936 X 1.53 =14.525

Look at hte 1/8th mile MPH compared to the 1/4 mile MPH and the "general 20MPH rule applies".
77+20=97MPH!

Granted, this conversion ratio is "for my car".... some cars use a 1.54 or a 1.2 converstion ratio.. but the 1.53 will work fine.

So long as you are consistant with your data input it can really help you evaluate what is going on with your car.

If you make a trip to Ennis/Metroplex and get a couple of 1/4 mile runs in, then you can figure out your own "conversion ratio".
but I'd be willing to bet.. your ratio is 1.53 as well.

Give it a shot..
 
Conversion ratio will vary from car to car depending on how well the car moves in the 1/8th compared to how well it moves from the 1/8th to the 1/4.

I've seen ratio's between 1.52 and 1.55.. just FWIW.
 
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