Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

J

JeffHeller

Registered
Someone please tell me this isn't as difficult as it appears...
I'm replacing my air suspension compressor, after procrastinating too long on the replacement of a bad air strut. I've found the compressor in the passenger-side front fenderwell, after removing the plastic fenderwell lining, and have managed to remove all four bolts to the pump / dryer assembly - 2 easily accessible with an 8mm wrench, the other two accessed through the headlight access port.

Yet still, the assembly seems too large to extract, and it's surrounded by a metal cage bolted in invisible and inaccessible places.

Has anyone replaced the compressor on a '95 Mark VIII who may be able to shed a little light on the matter?

Many thanks for your assistance!
-Jeff Heller / heller@thrifty.net
512.357-0082 (h)
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

It sounds like you got them all. Looking at the compressor, it has four bolts that attach it to the mounting plate. I would disconnect all of the airlines from the dryer if you haven't done that already, as well as the electrical connections. Just try removing the compressor, not the entire mounting bracket. The wiring could be what is holding you back. The wiring is secured to the mounting bracket similar to how the inner fender liner is secured to the car with plastic tabs. Make sure all of those are free and it should come out.

In the past, I have removed the front bumper just to ensure I had enough room. I also used to hate removing the liner. Now that I have done it ten times, I can put the liner back in AFTER installing the wheel!

Kale
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

Thanks to Kale for the prompt reply. For those not wishing to remove the front bumper skin, I have found it's possible to remove the pump without removing the bumper skin.

The bracket surrounding the pump has (3) 13mm bolts - one readily visible, one toward the lower car-front edge of the bracket (left hand side, not visible as you peer into the wheel well) and a third, much higher up, barely visible with your head in the wheel well. On my 95, it's necessary to unbolt the bracket from the car in order to make enough clearance for the compressor to clear the bracket (beneath) and the air intake handler (above). The whole bracket also has a hook which keeps it more-or-less in place once you've removed the 3 bolts. The second bolt is murder to remove with the bumper skin on, but can be done more easily with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension, with the mechanic's body positioned with head just in front of the car and feet near the rear of the wheel well.

Once the bracket is detached from the car, remove the hose (moisture outlet?) (with spring clip) from the pump, and the power plug. Removing the power plug is also a bit of a chore. Look at the plug on the replacement unit for an orientation on the locking 'ears' necessary to remove (either break off or extend with a small flat-blade screwdriver.)

Before installing your replacement unit, ensure it's a form-fit replacement. A unit I purchased from Arnott had a different size hose fitting, and in a different location, so I don't yet know if I'll be able to successfully attach the hose. Perhaps the new dryer assembly just drains moisture to the ground, and it's unnecessary to attach the hose?

Hoping this detailed post helps other newbies, such as myself, when trying to accomplish this task.

-Jeff Heller
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

The hose part has me confused. Where is this hose located?

On my car, the dryer mounts directly to the compressor with the dryer having four outlet ports, one for each airbag. There is a small vacuum type hose, but that doesn't sound like what you are referring to. You can see the small hose in this picture between the vent solenoid (bottom right) and the compressor body (bottom left).

http://www.lincolnmarkviii.org/suspension/suspension/compressor_dryer_small.gif

If the dryer is allowed to drain moisture to the ground via a dangling hose, it would need a way to plug the hole whenever the compressor runs or else it would just run forever and never build any pressure.

Kale
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

he's talking about the "intake" hose.

we got a replacement compressor that didn't have the "barbed" configuration to the inlet port.
the hose doesnt really fit, it just lays over the inlet.

I'm pretty sure that's the "moisture drain" that he's referring to.

Now.. why the inlet port is in a different location...HMMMMMM
ya got me there....

Maybe a mark 7 pump? or something else?
I saw a mark 7 pump, I believe it only had "THREE MOUNT POINTS" whereas the mark 8 pump has 4 mount points.


I always take the compressor out without removing the front bumper.
The only thing is.. that dreaded "air silencer" makes it a pain.
ONE more reason to "heave" the silencer "over your shoulder".

Once the silencer is removed, you've got PLENTY of room to remove and install the compressor.
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

I spoke with the tech at Arnott regarding the altered configuration for the dryer outlet. On the stock unit, the 'barbed' connection fed moisture out the top of the unit to a hose feeding a plastic assembly (reservoir?) on the pump's right (when looking into the wheel well.) The replacement unit dryer vents out the bottom, which the tech explained will just drain to the ground, better keeping the compressor-related components dry. He told me to just let the hose dangle from the 'reservoir' - no harm done. Since my old unit leaked lots of rusty water when I pulled it out, the explanation sounds legit. I've some digipix if anyone's interested in seeing the differences. I don't honestly know whether it's an inlet or outlet, but seems to work fine with the hose detached.

My car's still 'slamming' after 8 or 9 hours, but I attribute that to (1) I've not replaced the second air strut yet, and (2) I goofed up by only putting one O-ring on the solenoid, so have some rework ahead of me.

BTW - the solenoid 'ears' don't fit the Arnott strut receptacles well - way too tight. Arnott tech advised I shave some plastic from the solenoid so it will fit the keyed receptable. Next strut, I'll fit the solenoid before I put the strut in the car.

Thanks for all your interest and support!
-Jeff Heller
heller@thrifty.net
p.s. Via email, please use a highly relevant subject line. I'm pretty quick in deleting spam!
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

I removed the bumper cover to replace the compressor a year and a half ago,then the check air message came on a year later.I called Eddie (Bluecollar) from whom I purchased the rebuilt compressor from, he recommended that I install a spider valve,to bypass the drier and to gradually remove the water in the system which becomes a problem over time.This cleared up the problem and has been working fine ever since.I also removed the silencer so I can access the compressor thru the wheel well with out removing the bumper cover.







http://www.markviii.org/~woof/MK_VIII_woof.JPG

93 MarkVIII 123K miles
98 MarkVIII 60K miles
 
RE: Air compressor removal - 95 Mark VIII

I'll give them an "A" for effort. At least they are trying something, but even if the head drains the water out, its still getting that far and would be hard to get a head to drain all the water in the system.

My opinion is to get it out BEFORE it gets to the compressor. Thats why the Spider Valve was designed.
 
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