Anyone have a T90P-50-ALA ABS Tool?

9

95blklsc

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A friend of mine has a pretty nice 93. While doing the brakes one of the rear lines snapped because it was rusted to the flare nut. While it sat overnight until the parts store opened to we could buy unions and flare nuts, all of the fluid drained from the system. The old line was cut back until it was in good condition, the new line was spliced in and connected to the new flex hose and caliper. This car has all new brake components in the rear and a 1 year old cobra brake upgrade in the front.

After helping him flush 3 quarts of new fluid through the system while bleeding it in the front and back multiple times, the brakes just are not firming up like they were. The system has been checked for leaks thoroughly, none found. I also checked brake line pressure with a rotunda brake pressure gauge I have, appears to be ok. The car is drivable but the brakes are spongy as hell.

We suspect the issue is some air may have gotten into the ABS pump. I have MANY Rotunda tools from a dealership I helped liquidate but I don't have the T90P-50-ALA tool that is needed to activate the ABS pump and open the valves for 20-60 seconds. Does anyone have one they would be willing to rent or sell?

It looks like this:
15286dscn3577.jpg

15286dscn3574.jpg
 
BTW, this is the procedure for using this tool in case anyone needs this in the future.

The official procedure is listed as:

1. The brake master cylinder (2140) and anti-lock brake hydraulic control bracket (2C304) must be bled using Anti-Lock Test Adapter T90P-50-ALA or equivalent. If this procedure is not followed, air will be trapped in the anti-lock brake hydraulic control bracket which will eventually lead to a spongy brake pedal (2455).

To bleed the brake master cylinder and anti-lock brake control module (2B373), disconnect the anti-lock brake wiring (2C054) from the anti-lock brake control module and install the Anti-Lock Test Adapter to the wire harness anti-lock brake wiring.

a. Place bleed/harness switch in bleed position.

b. Turn ignition to ON position. At this point the red OFF indicator should turn on.

c. Push motor button on adapter down. This starts the pump motor. The red OFF indicator will turn off and the green ON indicator will turn on. The pump motor will run for 60 seconds once the motor button is pushed. If the pump motor is to be turned off for any reason before this 60 seconds has elapsed, push the abort button and the pump motor will turn off.

d. After 20 seconds of pump motor operation, push and hold the valve button down. Hold valve button for 20 seconds then release.

e. The pump motor (2C256) will continue to run for an additional 20 seconds.

2. The brake lines can be bled in the conventional manner.

Bleed in the following sequence:

RH Rear

LH Front

LH Rear

RH Front
 
I think Eddie has one. I never needed to use one of those, even when replacing all the lines. Did you let the reservoir run dry by any chance ?
 
Who is Eddy? Would he be willing to rent it possibly?

I think it was possibly dry from the line dripping all night, but I can't say for sure either way. It seems like that is the tool that is needed regardless if its the master cylinder that needs bleeding or the ABS pump. I found a place that specializes in SHO stuff that has it for sale for $159, but it just sucks to spend that much on a tool that will be used only once most likely. He will buy it if he has to.
 
no dice.....he has the star scanner but not the tool that purges the system that I need....the search continues..
 
Cool.

Let us know how this works out.

I still don't quite understand this though.

I thought the valves were noramlly open.

And how do you bleed a bracket?:D
 
billcu said:
Cool.

Let us know how this works out.

I still don't quite understand this though.

I thought the valves were noramlly open.

And how do you bleed a bracket?:D
Click to expand...


Lol idk, it was a cut and paste. I didn't notice it until you just said it.
 
I'm going to have to look where I connect this to on the car. I'm not exactly sure where the harness is. Time to bust out the factory service manual!
 
The way I read it, you unplug the harness from the module and plug the tester directly into the module.

I'm guessing the tester has a cable that connects to your battery to power the valves.

There's a photo of my harness location (when I had to splice it together) on the post below. The gen 2 is different than the Gen 1 but they're both inside the front of the drivers side fender.

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30666
 
billcu said:
The way I read it, you unplug the harness from the module and plug the tester directly into the module.

I'm guessing the tester has a cable that connects to your battery to power the valves.

There's a photo of my harness location (when I had to splice it together) on the post below. The gen 2 is different than the Gen 1 but they're both inside the front of the drivers side fender.

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30666
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that's how it works..... Illl probably get to his car the weekend after this one.
 
Wow...sounds like a PITA. I would have paid someone to deal with my ABS, although I would have bled the brakes at the master first. :) I've never had that issue before but I've never had a system drip like that either with the air creeping up into the system vs. being forced through from the top.
 
J said:
Wow...sounds like a PITA. I would have paid someone to deal with my ABS, although I would have bled the brakes at the master first. :) I've never had that issue before but I've never had a system drip like that either with the air creeping up into the system vs. being forced through from the top.
Click to expand...

Yea my friend Gary tired to find a shop that had the right tool to bleed it for him but no one around here has it. I'll probably give him a hand with it next weekend. Hope it solves the problem.
 
Good luck man....I don't envy you, I hate bleeding brakes in general, that would just piss me off.
 
Well quite a bit of brake fluid later it's all set. The tool was defiantly needed. It pushed some really ****ty milkly looking fluid into the lines along with some bubbles. We then bled each caliper starting from the furtest and ending at the closest. It took a few hours since we did it twice just to be sure. We went through about 5 large bottles of fluid as well, probably overkill. I am probably going to keep the tool and have it available for rental in case someone needs it.
 
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