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Lowered or stock height suspension Do I lower it?

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  • Lowered or stock height suspension Do I lower it?

    The front end leaks down overnight, but the rear remains up. I am thinking of going to the spring conversion to solve this problem. I want good cornering performance, but AZ roads can be horrid and we live in speed bump land to slow down the fogeys and "privileged" folks who probably shouldn't be driving. The questions are:
    1) Does lowering with the available kits really improve cornering performance or is it just cosmetic?
    2) What is the best performance conversion setup?
    3) What is the length of the unlowered suspension travel; front and rear? How much travel will I lose?
    4) what is the typical ground clearance on the "stock" height suspension kits vs the lowered ones?
    Opinions on lowering or stock height would be appreciated.
    Bill W

  • #2
    You can still buy aftermarket kits that will convert it to springs and improve handling. I've kept mine on air and have done other things for handling with the ability to control the ride hight where ever I want it set to.
    Eric
    -00 Honda Accord (The MPG'er)
    -97 Mark VIII Base (The Row'er)
    -95 Mark VIII LSC (The Go'er)
    -14 Model T touring (The Show'er)
    -Rebuilding the T

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    • #3
      After putting the new tires on it, it looks like the air ride is stable. It didn't drop overnight. The mismatched front tires (215 and 225) might have been the culprit. I'll watch it, but if it's good, I'll keep it. I do need new rear shocks and the tower mount though. I was also thinking of swapping the rear sway bar for a Tbird one. I found 2 Tbird Super Coupes that just hit a local junk yard. At least one of them should still have the sway bar on it. Is this a good plan?
      The second question is what shocks to use to match the current front ones.
      Bill W
      Last edited by ranchodenieve; 10-14-2017, 09:49 PM.

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      • #4
        Also, the rear shocks have the anti dive solenoid on them. Can I just disconnect it or should I leave solenoid attached to the electrical system when I put a conventional shock in?
        Bill W

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        • #5
          Yes, you can just remove them, you don't need to leave them connected.

          Bill
          1994 Deep Jewel Green 183,142 miles
          1997 White LSC 135k miles
          1998 White Collectors Edition 175k
          1994 Black (#2) 100k miles
          1993 Deep Jewel Green Convertible

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          • #6
            If you want better handling install under-car bracing. These cars flex like a noodle. There are plenty of orderable options including connecting the front K-member to the body. Front and rear bracing for the differential. Others have built a variety of rear sub-frame connectors. Some have also built a brace for the rear shock towers in the trunk. John Temple offers a full under carriage brace but you have ot bring your car to his shop in Georgia.There are many threads on this topic with good pictures of what people have done.

            I don't think springs offer any improvement over a Gen2 air suspension from a handling perspective. You can achieve better spring performance by building your setup buying separate springs and struts. Tokico blue struts are popular with Vogtland lowering springs.
            98 LSC Torreador Red
            "This fire's thrills per BTU are off the charts!"

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            • #7
              I have been dealing with air ride suspension problems ever since I bought my first Mark VIII in 2001. I have replaced the compressor twice over the years and the rear bags twice as well as the front struts and all the other solenoids at least three or four times each. At 20 years old with 250k miles, you can expect to replace parts from time to time.
              I have always been reluctant to change over to a spring set up because I like keeping the car original with regards to the suspension.
              There have been many members that have converted and I would not criticize that choice. I simply like the air ride system and I am willing to pay the price to keep it working properly as frustrating as it has been including the cost.

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              • #8
                Regarding the sway bar. I have never heard of anyone using a T-bird sway bar. Everyone I have seen has installed a Addco rear sway bar. They offer 3 thicknesses. I would recommend buying a greasable Energy Suspension bar busing kit. The stock rear sway bar is essentially useless since it is a hollow tube. The front sway bar is solid steel and 1.125" diameter.
                98 LSC Torreador Red
                "This fire's thrills per BTU are off the charts!"

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by beerdog View Post
                  I have never heard of anyone using a T-bird sway bar.
                  oh?
                  super coupe sway bar is a cheap and easy upgrade.
                  and its solid too.
                  i bought my 96 with a solid bird sway bar in it.
                  1996 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Opal Opalescent on grey, 276/287
                  1995 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Indigo Lights on black
                  2002 Ford Focus SVT Sonic Blue on black

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                  • #10
                    What diameter is the SC sway bar?
                    98 LSC Torreador Red
                    "This fire's thrills per BTU are off the charts!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      here is the chart.

                      http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-t...ar/swaybar.htm

                      the 89 SC combo is 1.2" front, 1.1" rear.
                      1996 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Opal Opalescent on grey, 276/287
                      1995 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Indigo Lights on black
                      2002 Ford Focus SVT Sonic Blue on black

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                      • #12
                        It looks like the 89 is the most desirable from the chart, but what are the Mk viii stock sizes. I also understand that some Cougars had a good bar too. http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00134.html
                        Bill W

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                        • #13
                          Really, I'd just go out there and look for anything that's solid rather than hollow. You'll be pleased by the difference.

                          The Addco bars are the easy way to get the "sure thing." but plenty have gone the direction in which you are looking.
                          Mike Martin

                          1997 Mark VIII LSC 5.0
                          2001 Dodge Dakota

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                          • #14
                            Thanks. Sounds good on the solid bars
                            Bill W

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                            • #15
                              The stock mark8 was 7/8' hollow. Maybe 1" but I am pretty sure it was 7/8". Yes, 7/8" hollow. Basically it was nothing.
                              98 LSC Torreador Red
                              "This fire's thrills per BTU are off the charts!"

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