Do our engines have block (freeze) plugs?

Actually, #3 is incorrect. The cooling system see a maximum of 7PSI when hot.

Freezing point depends on whether its NPG or NPG+. I've had the coolant down to -20 and it worked fine.

The 7psi claim does not make sense its not like the liquid can absorb the pressure your max pressure is still whatever the cap blows off at.

It might not expand as fast as normal coolant and stay under 7psi that way but there is nothing that can limit that.
 
oh and to flush I would open the drain up and stick a garden hose in the resivor run till you feel its clean enough
 
This is all very good info. The only problem I would have is that if I do any engine work that involves removing the coolant, it could get expensive but I suppose it could be re-used if done properly.

Getting all of the residual coolant and anti-freeze out first would be the hardest part. I think a shop-vac could help a lot and maybe running a heat gun into one end of the radiator to blow through the system would also help.

I removed my t-stat housing and did not loose much coolant, thats for sure.

If I were to do this I would probably consider pulling the t-stat out, tilting the engine, shop-vac what I could and then putting the t-stat housing back together without t-stat. Then on one of the hoses put a heat gun or hair dryer and blow air through over-night to dry up any residual.
 
The 7psi claim does not make sense its not like the liquid can absorb the pressure your max pressure is still whatever the cap blows off at.

It might not expand as fast as normal coolant and stay under 7psi that way but there is nothing that can limit that.

The reason conventional cooling systems produce pressure is because the coolant boils to a certain extent. Since Evan's does not boil at all, it would be like heating up engine oil - no pressure build up.

The system pressure would depend on which cap you are using. Technically, you could run Evan's coolant without a cap at all in our cars. I plan on running with my cap VERY loose once Evan's is in so that the residual water will boil off and the steam will escape.
 
How much did it cost to fill the diesel radiator with that stuff.....Needs a lot more than 2 gallons!!

The cooling system takes 23qts, but I bought 8G because I like to have extra fluids with me.

The 7psi claim does not make sense its not like the liquid can absorb the pressure your max pressure is still whatever the cap blows off at.

It might not expand as fast as normal coolant and stay under 7psi that way but there is nothing that can limit that.

So then, by your thinking superheated water should boil and produce lots of steam and pressure?

You're missing the point here... The "liquid" boils at 375F, but it does not produce conventional steam, not does it "expand" in conventional terms. It's hard to explain. Best way to explain it is to take the radiator cap (or overflow bottle cap) off at 220+F and hear a slight hiss. nothing else.
 
The reason conventional cooling systems produce pressure is because the coolant boils to a certain extent. Since Evan's does not boil at all, it would be like heating up engine oil - no pressure build up.

The system pressure would depend on which cap you are using. Technically, you could run Evan's coolant without a cap at all in our cars. I plan on running with my cap VERY loose once Evan's is in so that the residual water will boil off and the steam will escape.

Im not sure if its so much boiling as it is thermal expansion. Water expands a lot, Evan's seems to expand less. Either way you have a closed system with something expanding. In this case 7psi makes perfect sense.
 
Not to take this thread in another direction... but are you planing on some kind of crazy temperatures for your mark VIII engine? Seems regular coolant does an ok job no? $160 is nuts.

My Mark already gets pretty warm during the summer with the AC on in stop-and-go traffic. I think I've gotten it up to the "O" (~240?) with my 180 high flow tstat. It mostly has to do with my 3000 stall converter, and the fact that a stock Mark water pump starts to cavitate at around 2500 rpms. My number one reason for getting Evan's is to eliminate cavitation; then my engine cooling woes will go away. I considered an upgraded water pump, but the Evan's fluid was cheaper and had more advantages to it.

I've also considered a possible coolant system problem, but my deceased 93 Mark did exactly the same thing with the same drivetrain setup.
 
The cooling system takes 23qts, but I bought 8G because I like to have extra fluids with me.



So then, by your thinking superheated water should boil and produce lots of steam and pressure?

You're missing the point here... The "liquid" boils at 375F, but it does not produce conventional steam, not does it "expand" in conventional terms. It's hard to explain. Best way to explain it is to take the radiator cap (or overflow bottle cap) off at 220+F and hear a slight hiss. nothing else.
if it boils at 375 it is turning to gas and therefore will increase in pressure. Now granted it would probably never get that hot in our cars but its not like its a magic liquid that will not create pressure when it turns to gas. Does any body have a small sample they could send me I feel like playing mad scientist.
 
I must have missed that part.

I'll probably just drive with it loose so that I don't have to permanently modify it.

Why? The system is still pressurized, even if a little. If the tank is vented the expanding and contracting Evan's coolant could cause the expansion tank to fill if the cap is off or damaged.
 
No matter how you many ways you explain something to some people, they just can't get it.

Enjoy the Evans stuff, I know I do. I'll never buy water based coolant for a vehicle I own, ever again.
 
No matter how you many ways you explain something to some people, they just can't get it.

Enjoy the Evans stuff, I know I do. I'll never buy water based coolant for a vehicle I own, ever again.

Agreed, although I think that was aimed at me:

The only pressure generated in an NPG+ cooling system is due to the expansion of liquid, never by the formation of vapor. Consequently the build-up of pressure in a system using NPG+ is typically in the range of just 2 to 7 psig and gasket seals, hose connections, and even the radiator core, are under less stress and operate safer and longer.

If you have no pressure in the Mark VIII cooling system the expansion tank will siphon the low side upon cool down. If you have no cap or a hole in it you will build 0 psi. Duh.
 
I may have to look into this stuff for the Vette. The temps get on the high side with the road racing I am doing. I don't know of any guys using it yet.
 
Thanks for clearing up my questions guys :)

Steve: A lot of Vette guys use water wetter (stupid name if you ask me).
 
Back
Top