Do our engines have block (freeze) plugs?

logres

Registered
In order to switch to the Evans cooling system, I have to drain as much of the coolant as possible.

Are there plugs on the bottom of the block that can be removed and replaced easily? If not, I'll have to remove the lower radiator hose and jack up the back of the car as high as possible.
 
No Drain plugs. The 4.6 has freeze plugs in it but I don't recommend you remove them to drain the motor. Come to think of it, you'd have a hell of a time removing a freeze plug. They sit under the exhaust manifolds... and they're too high to completely drain the motor anyways.

You could also look into removing the oil filter mount, since it has a coolant passage going through it.

But honestly, just remove the lower radiator hose, and jack up the rear of the car.

Don't forget to remove the heater core hoses and drain the heater core as well. I recommend a compressed air hose running no more than 10-12PSI to flush the old coolant out of the heater core. I've done this with most all of my vehicles that I'm running Evans in. Evans recommends no more than 2% of the old water based coolant remain in the engine for their waterless coolant to work well. (I can't remember if it says that on the jugs or not).
 
Last edited:
Either remove the thermostat housing, when you split it.. the engine will drain.
I wouldn't mess with the oil filter adapter gasket unless I was going to replace it afterwards.

Wayne, give this a shot..

Drain all you can from the petcock on the radiator, then refill with water.
That will dilute the coolant by a large margin.

Then split the thermostat housing which will drain 90% of the "diluted mixture" from the block..

By then.. you should have the vast majority of the coolant out of the motor.
 
When you mix Anti-freeze with water it is coolant ;)

Not really. A coolant is any gas or liquid used to remove heat from something. Whatever you put in the cooling system to do that job is the coolant. The anti-freeze is designed to prevent water from freezing. They also add some things to prevent corrosion.
 
You are saying the same thing......mix water with anit-freeze, it is also coolent/anti-freeze.....dah.....Some people argue just for the sake of arguing......
 
You are saying the same thing......mix water with anit-freeze, it is also coolent/anti-freeze.....dah.....Some people argue just for the sake of arguing......

Yea, we are splitting hairs, and we are talking about it in the context of what we put in our cars and nothing else. I could urinate in the radiator and call it coolant but that not what we are talking about.

Anyway what is this Evans cooling system ?
 
Anyway what is this Evans cooling system ?

Waterless coolant. Advantages are:

1. 375 boiling point - no boilover, elimination of hot spots, enables car to run efficiently up to 250 degrees (oil burn).
2. Zero pump cavitation.
3. Zero system pressure.

The downside is cost. I paid $160 for four gallons plus prep fluid.
 
Waterless coolant. Advantages are:

1. 375 boiling point - no boilover, elimination of hot spots, enables car to run efficiently up to 250 degrees (oil burn).
2. Zero pump cavitation.
3. Zero system pressure.

The downside is cost. I paid $160 for four gallons plus prep fluid.

So what is the freezing point?
 
Actually, #3 is incorrect. The cooling system see a maximum of 7PSI when hot.

Freezing point depends on whether its NPG or NPG+. I've had the coolant down to -20 and it worked fine.
 
Waterless coolant. Advantages are:

1. 375 boiling point - no boilover, elimination of hot spots, enables car to run efficiently up to 250 degrees (oil burn).
2. Zero pump cavitation.
3. Zero system pressure.

The downside is cost. I paid $160 for four gallons plus prep fluid.

Not to take this thread in another direction... but are you planing on some kind of crazy temperatures for your mark VIII engine? Seems regular coolant does an ok job no? $160 is nuts.
 
Not to take this thread in another direction... but are you planing on some kind of crazy temperatures for your mark VIII engine? Seems regular coolant does an ok job no? $160 is nuts.

Who cares! Its cool!!!!! (no pun intended)
 
Max, it seems that way, don't it.

But when you consider the advantages vs. cost, it makes sense.

Advantage #1: 500,000 Mile service interval. That's right, Five hundred thousand miles.

Advantage#2: Lower cooling system pressure. This is beneficial to the cooling system (for obvious reasons). I've taken the overflow bottle cap off at 210F, and all I hear was a little hiss. No steam, no drama.

Advantage #3: Quicker heat transfer. The problem with Water based coolants is not the water... it's the layer of steam that develops when the water in the coolant comes into contact with hot engine parts such as cylinder walls. Steam does not make a good thermal transfer vehicle.

Because Evans' does not contain any water, (hence the company recommending less than 2% of old water/coolant left in the system before adding their product), it will not suffer from the vapor effect.

I've had the coolant up to 235F pulling heavy loads in my diesel pick-up trucks. Oil temps only climbed to 215-220. Granted, I run heavy duty oil coolers in them, but I could have gone even hotter on the coolant... at least until the oil would have started breaking down at around 245F.

However, the interesting part about these temperatures is that I could not get the coolant over 235F no matter how hard I tried. My EGT Temps are usually sitting right at 1300F and as soon at I crest a big hill, within 1/2 to 1 mile the temps are back to normal operating range. Which kind of depends on ambient temperature a bit, it seems. In the winter time, I'm looking at 190F and summer about 200F.

So, in a nutshell... yeah. It's worth it.
 
So what is the freezing point?

From Evans site.

NPG+

Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant is the recommended coolant for all gasoline and diesel engines. NPG+ is a stand-alone lifetime coolant that does not freeze, or boil over. NPG+ controls detonation, cavitation, and is non-corrosive. Installing NPG+ requires the radiator, engine block and heater core to be drained completely and then filled 100% with NPG+. NPG+ meets or exceeds both the ASTM D 1384 corrosion test and the ASTM D 3306-94 specifications.

Boils 375°F @ 0 psi
Freezes -40°F
Viscosity 2.3cp @ 212°F
Surface Tension 44dyn/cm

$32.50 per Gallon
 
Back
Top