I have read through this thread in hopes to find a cure but no dice... http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.or...ng-Fan-Mods&highlight=mark's+cooling+fan+mods
Below is the novel with the details...
98 LSC with rebuilt motor standard bore/11.1 CR - rebuilt B heads with comp behive springs and retainers decked .060
Cobra intake with single blade TB - 80lbs Siemens Injectors - Stock fuel pressure regular
Cobra cams degreed with passenger secondary tensioner mod
BR7EF plugs gapped at .028
IMRC - EGR - SAI - Evap all deleted
Northern Dual pass radiator with Dual Spal fans control by the computer - 3000 miles
Coolant cross over delete and head cooling mod(on top freeze plug hole adjacent to the intake) inline 180 stat - factory mechanical pump
Paxton 1500 14.6ish lbs at 7000k NO FMIC.. Meth injection pre and post SC
4.10 gears - 4k Circle D stall - External Derale 38k plate and fin cooler fed with 3/8 AN lines
Engine details:
Manley Forged 11cc dish(?)
Coyote boss rods
stock crank
cylinder honed to 600 grit
Felpro 1141R/L head gaskets ARP 87 series studs - NOT 2000 - 70 FTLBS in three stages per ARP
New FRPP Main bolts
Clevite Performance series bearings.. 1.2-.25 clearance on mains and rods
Windage tray with stock pan
GT500 oil pump with stock Mark tube
Broke in with 5w30 conventional oil - have since changed to full synthetic... all with motorcraft filters...
Motor runs quiet and smooth with no smoke and no fluid consumption.
Before I popped the motor I could beat the hell out of it in 90 plus weather with the AC on, of course, and hit 208 for a few seconds and drop to the low 190s. Cruising in same weather low 190s. Could idle all day with the AC on in the mid to upper 190s.
New motor... 10 minute data log run to dial in shifting-MAF-Timing and so on it is fine. Once you want to extend the drive time it is nothing to hit 210-220 at cruise with the AC on. Stop and open the hood and turn the AC off it will drop to low 190 mid to mid 180s. Hit 240 once and blew a little coolant out but nothing serious, temp dropped to low 220s in about 10 seconds, this occurred on the decell from a 120 MPH pull. All driving is on the street, NO DYNO!!
New build put in used electric water pump, took out and put old pump back in. Taken the stat out completely(Previously a 180 with one hole drilled in at the 12 O'clock position), put in a 160 with holes drilled in it, a new 180 without holes. Pulled hood liner, pulled wiper cowl and rubber insulator gasket between cowl and hood. Drained, refilled, burped more time than i can count. I know many have said this before but there is no air in the system. On a good long hard heat soak it can drop from 220 to upper 180s in under 5 minutes with the hood open and AC... this all happens in upper 70's and mid to lower 80's ambient.
40-50 degree temp drop from inlet to outlet of the radiator.
Fans pull air like a MOFO!!
HELP!!
Below is the novel with the details...
98 LSC with rebuilt motor standard bore/11.1 CR - rebuilt B heads with comp behive springs and retainers decked .060
Cobra intake with single blade TB - 80lbs Siemens Injectors - Stock fuel pressure regular
Cobra cams degreed with passenger secondary tensioner mod
BR7EF plugs gapped at .028
IMRC - EGR - SAI - Evap all deleted
Northern Dual pass radiator with Dual Spal fans control by the computer - 3000 miles
Coolant cross over delete and head cooling mod(on top freeze plug hole adjacent to the intake) inline 180 stat - factory mechanical pump
Paxton 1500 14.6ish lbs at 7000k NO FMIC.. Meth injection pre and post SC
4.10 gears - 4k Circle D stall - External Derale 38k plate and fin cooler fed with 3/8 AN lines
Engine details:
Manley Forged 11cc dish(?)
Coyote boss rods
stock crank
cylinder honed to 600 grit
Felpro 1141R/L head gaskets ARP 87 series studs - NOT 2000 - 70 FTLBS in three stages per ARP
New FRPP Main bolts
Clevite Performance series bearings.. 1.2-.25 clearance on mains and rods
Windage tray with stock pan
GT500 oil pump with stock Mark tube
Broke in with 5w30 conventional oil - have since changed to full synthetic... all with motorcraft filters...
Motor runs quiet and smooth with no smoke and no fluid consumption.
Before I popped the motor I could beat the hell out of it in 90 plus weather with the AC on, of course, and hit 208 for a few seconds and drop to the low 190s. Cruising in same weather low 190s. Could idle all day with the AC on in the mid to upper 190s.
New motor... 10 minute data log run to dial in shifting-MAF-Timing and so on it is fine. Once you want to extend the drive time it is nothing to hit 210-220 at cruise with the AC on. Stop and open the hood and turn the AC off it will drop to low 190 mid to mid 180s. Hit 240 once and blew a little coolant out but nothing serious, temp dropped to low 220s in about 10 seconds, this occurred on the decell from a 120 MPH pull. All driving is on the street, NO DYNO!!
New build put in used electric water pump, took out and put old pump back in. Taken the stat out completely(Previously a 180 with one hole drilled in at the 12 O'clock position), put in a 160 with holes drilled in it, a new 180 without holes. Pulled hood liner, pulled wiper cowl and rubber insulator gasket between cowl and hood. Drained, refilled, burped more time than i can count. I know many have said this before but there is no air in the system. On a good long hard heat soak it can drop from 220 to upper 180s in under 5 minutes with the hood open and AC... this all happens in upper 70's and mid to lower 80's ambient.
40-50 degree temp drop from inlet to outlet of the radiator.
Fans pull air like a MOFO!!
HELP!!
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