Anti-theft preventing start?

black97lsc

black97lsc

Registered
Yesterday I first had this problem, I unlock the door using the remote, jump in, turn the key and it won't start. Everything is on, all the lights, radio, heater, airbag, ABS lights......everything comes on as they normally do except when I turn the key to the start position, it doesn't crank. Doesn't click, doesn't sound like the starter is engaging at all. However, the anti-theft light is flashing rapidly. So I take the key out, hit the unlock button on the remote again and try it and this time it does start.
About an hour ago I had the same thing happen in the parking lot of the grocery store. This time I could not get the car started for about 10 minutes. Hitting lock/unlock on the remote, removing the key from the car, trying it again, etc. All along, when I turn the key from the ON position to the START, the anti-theft light flashes. It seems to me that the anti-theft system was preventing the car from cranking over. Finally, it does start and I notice that this time, before moving to the START position, the anti-theft light is not flashing but steadily on. Has my key gone bad, or some module on the ignition switch? How can I fix this or is this a dealer only fix? Anyone else have this problem and how much did it cost to fix?

Also, the battery is one year old and I have never had battery issues as it cranked easily before yesterday and when it did start it cranked easily.
Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 
Check battery condition AND the alternator. Make dang sure that the wires clamp VERY tight...or remove, clean the terminals and reinstall the wires.

Take to Auto Zone or a Battery Store and have them check the battery/alt .
 
Do you really think its the battery or alternator? The battery is one year old and the car has never had problems starting. I'll give it a shot.
 
i think you have something wrong with your SCIL module. your ignition and PATS system is all inside it and its a complex unit. PATS stands for Passive Anti Theft System, its what reads your key, your key is the only key coded to that module, new keys can be programmed to your scil module, but the key you have now is the other key component to the scil module, maybe the ignition cylinder has something wrong internally, or the scil module has a bug internally, i highly doubt it has anything to do with the alt or the battery, when 97 and 98's are low on voltage, they make a very distinct ... click click click click when you turn them over if there isnt enough juice to start it, but you dont get any starter activity you are saying, so its deff not a starter problem, you have something going on with the key, the remote, and the SCIL module, its an alarm problem, not voltage.
 
I checked all the battery/alternator connections, but all seem clean and secure. The anti-theft light is still flashing when I try to start and it doesn't start. I'm going to make an appointment at the local Lincoln dealer. Any ideas on what I'm looking at price wise? And since there's a TSB on it, is that something that is partially covered (cost wise) by the dealer?
 
TSB's are only bulletins, not recalls. They will only help in maybe helping the tech working on the cars. So the only way it may help is to lessen the time spent troubleshooting.

Are you sure you have a real owners key and not the key that was used as a "Valet" key?
 
Do you by chance have anything electronic sitting on the lower dash above the key slot?

As weird as this may seem, I installed a cradle to hold a GPS from a bracket that attached to the AC vent just above the key slot and my 98 Mark wouldn't start. For some reason I thought that might be what caused the problem and unplugged the power cord and it started. I still have the GPS mounted there and have to unplug the darn thing every time or the car will not start. By the way, if I don't, I get the flashing light on the dash just as you describe.

DSC00002.JPG
 
budpytko said:
TSB's are only bulletins, not recalls. They will only help in maybe helping the tech working on the cars. So the only way it may help is to lessen the time spent troubleshooting.

Are you sure you have a real owners key and not the key that was used as a "Valet" key?
Click to expand...

Nope, I have both of the original keys, in fact the gray valet key is the only one I don't have. I printed out the TSB, hopefully that does cut down on the cost.

Last Mrk said:
Do you by chance have anything electronic sitting on the lower dash above the key slot?

As weird as this may seem, I installed a cradle to hold a GPS from a bracket that attached to the AC vent just above the key slot and my 98 Mark wouldn't start. For some reason I thought that might be what caused the problem and unplugged the power cord and it started. I still have the GPS mounted there and have to unplug the darn thing every time or the car will not start. By the way, if I don't, I get the flashing light on the dash just as you describe.

DSC00002.JPG
Click to expand...

No GPS or other thing in the way. I was reading the TSB and it indicated that aftermarket stereos, etc, could affect the PATS system, but I installed my stereo a couple of years ago. The funny thing is that its getting progressively worse. The first time it happened last week, it only took an extra try to get it started right away. The next time in the parking lot, about 15 minutes. Yesterday it started fine the first time, I shut it off, and then it wouldn't restart again. I gave up after another 15 minutes since it was just sitting in the garage. I tried both of the original keys, I tried putting electrical grease on the key and putting it in the ignition. Nothing changes. I have video of the fast blinking light but I can't attach it. Its off my phone and plays in quicktime player and for some reason I can't access the FTP site to upload the video to my LOD web space....
I made an appointment at the somewhat local LM dealer. Two local LM dealers have closed since the last time I took my car in for service. Its a shame. I hope they are a decent shop.
 
Make sure your not getting power to the starter before you blame the PATS system jack up the car get under it and check for power at the starter with a meter or simple 12 volt check light. Get a helper to try to start it while you check for power.
My Gen 1 was acting the same way this summer start then not start then start, had to tow the thing twice next day it would start.
It wound up being the starter solenoid for me.
Cheap fix but a pain to install.
 
I understood that the car WILL START and run with a bogus key - it just won't run but a few seconds. I'm not saying it is NOT the anti-theft system, but I wouldn't rule out other things. Anti-theft won't stop the engine from cranking tho.....(I don't think)!
 
budpytko said:
I understood that the car WILL START and run with a bogus key - it just won't run but a few seconds. I'm not saying it is NOT the anti-theft system, but I wouldn't rule out other things. Anti-theft won't stop the engine from cranking tho.....(I don't think)!
Click to expand...

At least in my 98 this is not true. I did not know about the encoded keys when I bought it and was only given one key so I had the local key shop make a copy. It would open the locks and even turn in the switch, but would not crank the engine.
 
I stand corrected, but I could have swarn that in my '97 that I have had (the wrong) key in the ignition and it would start, but wouldn't stay running. I think I destroyed THAT key and have never had another "no keep running start".
 
The PATS interlocks with the starter solenoid - so it will not even crank.

The rapid flashing anti-theft lamp is indicative of a PATS issue.
 
With my '98, with the GPS on the dash as shown above and plugged in, turning the key does absolutely nothing. No clicking no cranking, nothing. Except of course the flashing of the anti theft light on the dash.
 
I haven't gotten this fixed yet only because the nearest dealer does not offer a loaner since my Lincoln is a 97 and no ride home either. And if the part is no longer available (as I've read), I don't want them to have my car for a few days just to tell me they can't fix it and charge me a big labor charge. I'm weighing my options.
1. Try to get the PATS system to work as its supposed to (always my number one choice) or
2. have the ECM "tuned" to not use the PATS system. Which I've read is an alternative, but I've had the car tuned for firmer shifts, etc, and I wonder if a new flash will wipe that out. I need to make some phone calls.

I've been looking through the service CD and found documentation on the PATS system in case anyone else is having a similar symptom.

The passive anti-theft system provides vehicle protection as follows:

l The passive anti-theft system activates the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650), enabling the vehicle to be started. If the passive anti-theft system does not recognize the electronically coded ignition key it disables the engine.

l The passive anti-theft system is managed by the steering column/ignition/lighting control module.

l The passive anti-theft system provides vehicle protection against unauthorized vehicle operation.

l A violation of vehicle security (sensed through the passive anti-theft antenna) will disable the powertrain control module, thus preventing the vehicle from being started.
Click to expand...
Sequence of Operation

The vehicle anti-theft system is automatically enabled and disabled as follows:

l When the ignition switch is turned from ACC to RUN an antenna contained in the ignition cylinder energizes the electrically coded ignition key.

l The antenna receives a signal from the ignition key and transfers this signal to the steering column/ignition/lighting control module.

l The steering column/ignition/lighting control module decodes the signal and compares it to the stored codes in memory.

l The steering column/ignition/lighting control module sends a signal to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) if the coded signal is valid and the vehicle can be started. The anti-theft indicator will also prove out for 3 seconds.

l If the steering column/ignition/lighting control module does not receive a valid code within 800 milliseconds, the module registers a theft data value and disables the powertrain control module. The vehicle will not start.

l In the event of a theft data value the anti-theft indicator will flash for 15 minutes.
Click to expand...
 
i do not have the remote for my car but one day the car did the same thing and would not start. i got out of the car and intered the code on the door and it started after that.
 
Thanks for the idea ggfrank21. I've tried that and I still have the problem. I'm going to check out the connections from the ignition switch this weekend since its supposed to be in the upper 40s as opposed to lower 20s that we've had here for the past several days.
 
This weekend I unplugged the battery and unplugged the computer to take a better look at it. I also removed the lower dash panel to take a look at the ignition switch area. I was looking for anything loose or damaged but I didn't see anything wrong. I then plugged the computer back in and reconnected the battery. To my surprise, the anti-theft light isn't flashing quickly and the car starts. I drove it around all weekend and not once (knock on wood) did I have a problem starting. I hate not having a solid resolution but my car starts. I wonder if unplugging the battery/computer cleared out a fault condition or if while looking around for a problem along the ignition switch, I bumped something back in?
I'm left to wonder, but if it ever comes back I'll have to check more carefully.
Thanks for the advice everyone.
 
WOW...after all that and you fix it unknowingly!! That sucks...no one learns anything that way. At least when (not if) it happens again, you have a starting point!
 
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