Kid's getting Headers (2000 GT)

Trixie

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Staff member
So the Kid ordered BBK headers for his Mustang (2000 GT). They should be arriving tomorrow. He printed out the installation instructions, but wants to know if anyone here has any tips or tricks. How difficult is it and how long will my garage be out of commission?

He also wants to know if anyone has muffler suggestions - cat back system. He has an off-road X pipe coming in too.

Thanks!
 
Your garage will be out of commission for two days, maybe more if Beerdog helps. :p

Just kidding, I've known the job to be done by folks around here in a long day with air tools, no lift and some help.

I like the sound of Borla mufflers.
 
Your garage will be out of commission for two days, maybe more if Beerdog helps. :p

Just kidding, I've known the job to be done by folks around here in a long day with air tools, no lift and some help.

I like the sound of Borla mufflers.


LOL, that's no lie, JP. Plus we want the car to start....

Me, I think he got nervous when he heard what I think my new times would be (just like you back in the day). :wink:
 
Me, I think he got nervous when he heard what I think my new times would be :wink:

TIP.. concentrate on cutting a good light.
If you can get a little lead on the start it will be very hard for him to "reel you in".

Is his mustang an automatic or a stick car?
 
Tommy it's a stick. And remember, he learned to race from the greats, you and Tiffany.

Sounds like he's started installation already, and I'll give him the ideas on the mufflers. He doesn't need the car daily as he has his work truck and/or my car.
 
Tommy it's a stick. And remember, he learned to race from the greats, you and Tiffany.

That is what I was hoping you'd say.

I wish I had a dime for everytime I had "treed a stick car" and had them "miss second gear, then third gear" because they refused to "shift the car" until they were passing the mark 8.

If you can "nail him to the tree" he will be behind.
Being "behind" increases the likely hood that he'll "miss-shift" the car.

happens all the time, on the track and used to happen ALOT on the street...
Get your punch in early, and they have a very hard time making up the lost ground.

Then again.. if I remember correctly.. he was PRETTY GOOD on the tree!
 
It would be fun to race against him. Then again, I don't think he'd get shaken. He can stay pretty focused.
 
While I agree with you, it's a very unsettling feeling when your opponent "squirts" out from the line with a 1-1.5 car length advantage.
and the mark 8's SUPER LOOOOONG first gear usually has the "stick car guy" making the 1-2 and the 2-3 shift while your just getting into second gear.

So.. before your car shifts ONCE automatically, he'll have to EXECUTE FLAWLESS 1-2 shift and FLAWLESS 2-3 shifts just to keep up.

If he spins a little on the launch he's now 2 car lengths behind.

That is why I LOVE a "point and shoot" kodak easy automatic..because "they just work".

stick shift cars are generally faster, but they require that the driver EXECUTES flawlessly otherwise the run is "blown".

Ya'll should do this.. and make danged sure you get it on video
Win or lose..it'll be priceless footage.
 
well, the K-member is out. The front exhaust manifold nut is completely stripped. The area is somewhat tight. Any suggestions on how to get it off. It the last freakin bolt. always gotta be one that won't come off.
 
put a little heat on it from a mapp gas torch or something like that, get a bolt extractor and be carefully not to shear what is left of the head off.
 
Picked up a nut extractor set. Came right out with out a problem. Now for the new problem. Just noticed that one of the engine mount bolts was only i half way. The bolt and ID thread are all f'ed up. A prior owned messed with it or the factory did it. I guess it is not that big of an issue because he has been driving arround like this for 4 years without any issues but we would really like to fix it. any suggestions? should I gently chase the threads with a tap? Install a helicoil?
 
While you're there I would fix it. I hink a helicoil would be best in an aluminum block.
 
Doh, just went out to pass on the info. They fixed it, tapped it out. I keep telling him he needs to post whether or not he fixes his problems.

The kid has the SOHC, windsor cast iron block. Apparently the Romeo plant had a fire and for 6 months the cars got blocks from the Windsor plant which were better? I don't know, they're both under the car mumbling.
 
Tapping the cast iron block is preferred. It's much more tap friendly than the aluminum block.

This job was supposed to be done already! LOL!
 
It is a little more work than I thought. Every dam bolt is rusted to hell! Some of the header bolts are PIA to get in. Had to run to the store a few times for tools. I just chased the hole with a tap. The first few threads are messed up but it is a long bolt so at least 75% of the thread length is being used. Everything is back in except the K-Member and brakes. We will also be changing the tie rods tomorrow. Should finish tomorrow.

Everyone of these projects grows the tool box. This time it was a mini vise grip, nut extractor set, cheap metric tap&die set, 21mm wrench. Gotta get a nut extractor set if you do not have one. Should have bought one years ago.
 
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