Stalling Coming To A Stop

9

98MK8

Registered
Hello. I just finished installing a new blend door actuator, and after it was all together i went cruising around, since i had heat :) Anyways, i cruised around, just putting around town not really gettin on for about 45 mins, then all of a sudden i came to a stop and it died. Put it in park, turned the key back and started right up and away i went, it does it intermediately, not on every stop but just here and there. Any ideas? Only thing i can think of is my IAC. It only has 75k on it, but is there anything that i could of bumped while replacing my blend door? Is there any vaccuum hoses down there? I know i didn't get the shifter electronics hooked up correctly, because the light for the PRND21 light on the shifter part itself doesn't come on at all, but the lights on the gauge cluster light up when i shift between gears, except for the P. Any ideas? Thanks alot.
 
My car did this under certain conditions, but it was the fault of the tune. The tune had a very aggressive torque converter lockup schedule, and if i was cruising at a low speed with the torque converter locked and stopped short, it wouldn't unlock and it would stall the vehicle.

If you're car is stock, though, i'd start by checking for vacuum leaks and looking closely at the IAC.
 
This same thing has happened to me just today on my way to work before I got out of my neighborhood. Maybe 20 mph. Crazy and gut wrenching feeling like my car is dead. But it starts right up when i put her in park and turn the key... AAHHH relief. And off i go
 
i'd say with almost 100% it's the IAC replaced mine about a month ago when my mark started stalling on me one morning going to work, it wouldn't have been bad if it was a 5 speed like my mustang cause you can still kinda drive around, but it's alot harder with an auto, man i want to put a 5 or 6 speed in my mark
 
Sounds pretty much like an IAC. Mine got to the point where it would not idle at all, I had to put it in neutral when I stopped and keep a foot on the gas. After a used IAC from the junkyard for about $20 it was good.
 
This happened to my 98 about a month ago when I came to a stop it suddenly stalled but started right back up. happened to me today again coming to a stop. I have a new IAC. I noticed my idle rpm in drive sometimes get pretty low like 500 when it should be 600rpm. I can adjust this with a new tune but unless this starts happening more frequently im not going to bother.
 
Check out my post on 10/15/07 under Electrical. Almost a carbon copy of your own. Car has since stopped stalling completely. My thought is i had let it sit for about a week while I got the blend door complete( actual job only took 4 hrs, but other emergencies), this allowed something to GUM up? Anyway I still notice a very slight rough idle when I go from D to R. Plan on looking for a vacum leak ??? This IAC might be worth looking into. Sure is strange that we both did the same work and had similar problems afterward.

Rich
 
Bump.
I have this same problem. The car has stalled on me twice in the last week, once while getting off the gas and making a slow (under 5mph) turn and the other time while coasting to a stop. I have noticed that this is only when I have the defrost on, otherwise the car does not stall. With the defrost on (the a/c compressor is on), the RPM fall to about 500 when I come to a stop but then it bounces back up to about 700 RPM. My Mustang had a similar problem but its a 5 speed and it ended up being the TPS (throttle positioning sensor.)
Is the TPS similar to the IAC? Where is the IAC and what is the full name? thanks!
 
I'd atleast give the IAC a shot. it's on your intake, maybe 4 inches long, maybe an inch or so in dia. two bolts hold it on, you can change in it less than a min. and more than likely fix your problem.
 
KaotikGT said:
I'd atleast give the IAC a shot. it's on your intake, maybe 4 inches long, maybe an inch or so in dia. two bolts hold it on, you can change in it less than a min. and more than likely fix your problem.
Click to expand...

On most 4.6s it is that easy, but I've heard from others on this forum it's not that simple on the Mark on a GEN1. It is near the back of the engine by the firewall with something blocking it. A GEN2 could be easier with the different intake.

Also the TPS is not the same as the IAC, but again another fairly cheap part that depending on it's location is normally easy to swap out that could be causing your symptoms but I'd start with the IAC.
 
yeah the GEN 1 IAC's are a pain to change, about a 9 on the PITA meter, but the GEN 2 is a simple job. 8 mm socket and a few sec. and you're done. it's set up like a mustang
 
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