mrshleepy76
Registered
I started to replace my IACV but I soon noticed there was a black clip of some kind on one of the bolts.Does anyone know what that might be its the one closest to the engine?
IACV Question Help
- Thread starter mrshleepy76
- Start date
RE: IACV Question Help
My IAC is missing the clip. However, I did notice the longer than normal threaded section extending beyond the nut where a clip could go/did go.
That valve is gonna be a bear to get to. I'm starting to replace mine. I've removed the passenger side plastic plate that has the windshield sprayer nozzle on it to get more room. I'm also going to have to move those hoses.
If you have any suggestions as to how to take the IAC out, give a shout.
My IAC is missing the clip. However, I did notice the longer than normal threaded section extending beyond the nut where a clip could go/did go.
That valve is gonna be a bear to get to. I'm starting to replace mine. I've removed the passenger side plastic plate that has the windshield sprayer nozzle on it to get more room. I'm also going to have to move those hoses.
If you have any suggestions as to how to take the IAC out, give a shout.
mrshleepy76
Registered
RE: IACV Question Help
I got mine off today it took about an hour and a half to get it changed
I got mine off today it took about an hour and a half to get it changed
RE: IACV Question Help
You must be a master magician.
I've spent at least 4 hours on removal and only got as far as loosing the firewall bolt.
That clip on the engine side bolt was for the small diameter engine harness. The harness was there and it was clipped to the bolt, only I couldn’t see it from the top of the motor. Once I got down and dirty with the removal process, I found it.
So far, I have removed:
Windshield plastic flaring.
Windshield wiper linkage with motor.
Firewall plastic trim (This exposes sharp firewall edges and corners that rip your hands to shreds.)
Problems:
There are two water hoses for the heater back there. If they ever leak, I may end up selling the car. They look like a bear to replace.
The firewall side bolt can only be accessed with an 8mm ratchet box with only a couple of clicks of room to loosen. I've loosened it, but I haven't removed it.
The engine side bolt can only be accessed with an 8mm socket, 1/4 drive. Of course, the engine side bolt/nut (don't know which yet) is about 1/4 longer than my socket, with extension. If I can't find a deep 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket, I don’t know how I will be able to get that bolt/nut off.
The two fuel lines are steel tubing and rubber hose clones. They are held nice and neat with a hose tray that is clipped to the hoses. Getting that tray off is fun.
The metal tubing has two metal hose mounts that are connected to the firewall with sheet metal screws. The hardest part is finding the screws.
I’m going to attack it again today. The goal is to drive my Mark this week. Riding around in the wife’s brick is really embarrassing.
You must be a master magician.
I've spent at least 4 hours on removal and only got as far as loosing the firewall bolt.
That clip on the engine side bolt was for the small diameter engine harness. The harness was there and it was clipped to the bolt, only I couldn’t see it from the top of the motor. Once I got down and dirty with the removal process, I found it.
So far, I have removed:
Windshield plastic flaring.
Windshield wiper linkage with motor.
Firewall plastic trim (This exposes sharp firewall edges and corners that rip your hands to shreds.)
Problems:
There are two water hoses for the heater back there. If they ever leak, I may end up selling the car. They look like a bear to replace.
The firewall side bolt can only be accessed with an 8mm ratchet box with only a couple of clicks of room to loosen. I've loosened it, but I haven't removed it.
The engine side bolt can only be accessed with an 8mm socket, 1/4 drive. Of course, the engine side bolt/nut (don't know which yet) is about 1/4 longer than my socket, with extension. If I can't find a deep 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket, I don’t know how I will be able to get that bolt/nut off.
The two fuel lines are steel tubing and rubber hose clones. They are held nice and neat with a hose tray that is clipped to the hoses. Getting that tray off is fun.
The metal tubing has two metal hose mounts that are connected to the firewall with sheet metal screws. The hardest part is finding the screws.
I’m going to attack it again today. The goal is to drive my Mark this week. Riding around in the wife’s brick is really embarrassing.
RE: IACV Question Help
IACV = Idle Air Control Value.
It regulates filtered air during cold idle conditions. Typically they will jam due to carbon and you end up with rough idle when the motor is cold. When the motor warms up, all is fine.
On Continental's and Second generation Marks, the IAC value is located for easy access.
On first generation Marks, the location will demand human blood before you can remove it.
IACV = Idle Air Control Value.
It regulates filtered air during cold idle conditions. Typically they will jam due to carbon and you end up with rough idle when the motor is cold. When the motor warms up, all is fine.
On Continental's and Second generation Marks, the IAC value is located for easy access.
On first generation Marks, the location will demand human blood before you can remove it.
mrshleepy76
Registered
RE: IACV Question Help
I used a 1/4 in. drive w/ an 8mm standard and deep w/ a 12in extension and angle extension and got it off.It took a little thought to figure it out. I also changed my TPS sensor by taking the throttle body off and changed the gasket.I was gonna change the EGR but thats more difficult of an angle.
I used a 1/4 in. drive w/ an 8mm standard and deep w/ a 12in extension and angle extension and got it off.It took a little thought to figure it out. I also changed my TPS sensor by taking the throttle body off and changed the gasket.I was gonna change the EGR but thats more difficult of an angle.
RE: IACV Question Help
Once I got that deep 8mm socket, the motor side came off fast.
That was probably the hardest "simple" replacement I'd ever done.
It's back together. The idle seems faster. About 100 RPM. Does that mean there may be an air leak?
<Sigh> I don't wanna do that again.
You have been promoted to Shade Tree, First class for above and beyond. R&R IACV in 1.5 hours.
I have been busted to Small Shrub, Third class, for dereliction of duty. R&R IACV in 5.5 Hours, plus massive loss of blood. Shameful.
Once I got that deep 8mm socket, the motor side came off fast.
That was probably the hardest "simple" replacement I'd ever done.
It's back together. The idle seems faster. About 100 RPM. Does that mean there may be an air leak?
<Sigh> I don't wanna do that again.
You have been promoted to Shade Tree, First class for above and beyond. R&R IACV in 1.5 hours.
I have been busted to Small Shrub, Third class, for dereliction of duty. R&R IACV in 5.5 Hours, plus massive loss of blood. Shameful.
RE: IACV Question Help
Just think, that one is easier to get to than the EGR. We got my entire intake off in an hour and a half last time. The easiest way is to remove the hood and cowl right away. I can have my hood off in 15-20 minutes MAX now. And that includes finding the tools in my garage. The hardest part about the whole intake deal last time (for me) was plugging in the wiring harness that leads to the IMRC vacuum canister. Luckily enough, they only had these on the 96's.http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif Anyway, glad to hear you got it off. Your idle does sound a bit high, though. Does it lower once you are in gear?
Just think, that one is easier to get to than the EGR. We got my entire intake off in an hour and a half last time. The easiest way is to remove the hood and cowl right away. I can have my hood off in 15-20 minutes MAX now. And that includes finding the tools in my garage. The hardest part about the whole intake deal last time (for me) was plugging in the wiring harness that leads to the IMRC vacuum canister. Luckily enough, they only had these on the 96's.http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif Anyway, glad to hear you got it off. Your idle does sound a bit high, though. Does it lower once you are in gear?
RE: IACV Question Help
What is your idle speed now, in gear and in neutral, once warmed up?
John
[link:mark8.org/lodnca|NorCal Chapter Website]
http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg
'97 Mark VIII LSC
'96 T-Bird 4.6L
What is your idle speed now, in gear and in neutral, once warmed up?
John
[link:mark8.org/lodnca|NorCal Chapter Website]
http://mark8.org/users/johnaec/Mark_VIII_s.jpg
'97 Mark VIII LSC
'96 T-Bird 4.6L
RE: IACV Question Help
When I first start it cold, the idle ramps up to 1100 RPM and hovers there for about 10 seconds. I don't remember it doing that before, but it might. It then drops to 900 RPM. Once warmed up, idle RPM coming to a stop in gear is 600 and out of gear
about 700. Allowing it to sit 30 seconds, the idle drops to between 500-600.
When I first start it cold, the idle ramps up to 1100 RPM and hovers there for about 10 seconds. I don't remember it doing that before, but it might. It then drops to 900 RPM. Once warmed up, idle RPM coming to a stop in gear is 600 and out of gear
about 700. Allowing it to sit 30 seconds, the idle drops to between 500-600.
RE: IACV Question Help
This is exactly what my dang blasted car has been doing for months! When I start the car from sitting overnight, it runs fine to a point. When I put it in gear and get backed out and go forward, I give it a little gas and it bogs out for a second or two. Then once the car has run for a couple minutes, it runs fine. No misses or anything. What prompted you to replace yours? Aren't there two of them? Can you clean the old ones or do you have to replace them? I've replaced quite a few sensors trying to locate my problem and to no avail. Are they expensive?
This is exactly what my dang blasted car has been doing for months! When I start the car from sitting overnight, it runs fine to a point. When I put it in gear and get backed out and go forward, I give it a little gas and it bogs out for a second or two. Then once the car has run for a couple minutes, it runs fine. No misses or anything. What prompted you to replace yours? Aren't there two of them? Can you clean the old ones or do you have to replace them? I've replaced quite a few sensors trying to locate my problem and to no avail. Are they expensive?
RE: IACV Question Help
Mine was running rough when cold. It would barely run; usually I had to feed it gas to keep the fire lit. Once the motor was warm, the problems stopped. It idled fine.
That is classic IACV problems.
I've heard that some guys have cleaned it out (it carbons up.) However it is such a pain to remove, I feel new stuff is worth it.
I got mine from Torrie: F3LZ 9F715-AA. 50 bucks.
Mine was running rough when cold. It would barely run; usually I had to feed it gas to keep the fire lit. Once the motor was warm, the problems stopped. It idled fine.
That is classic IACV problems.
I've heard that some guys have cleaned it out (it carbons up.) However it is such a pain to remove, I feel new stuff is worth it.
I got mine from Torrie: F3LZ 9F715-AA. 50 bucks.
