3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

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I'm going to be finally installing my 3.73 FMS pumpkin next weekend. I'd like to make sure that I have everything I may need beforehand. Does anyone have a tool list for this job? I already know about the 36mm axle nut socket. I already have a blunt, flat air hammer bit to persuade the axle to come out of the rear hub. I already have the speedo gear, the posi lube and a bunch of the Ford synthetic gear oil. This is about all that I know about though.

Any tips, tools, lists, links, "been there, done thats", pictures, torque specs, etc., please post 'em up. Thanks in advance to all that help.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

[a href=//markviii.org/~1wykdmk8/rearhub.html]Click here[/a]
for a good start.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

DONT use an air hammer for anything.
The axle pops right out.Once you get all the bolts out take either a large flat blade screwdriver or better yet a small prybar and stick it between the pumpkin and the axle and pry it outward.It pops RIGHT out.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

I guess I'd read somewhere that the axle to be a PITA to get it to budge from the hub. I'll have a brass drift handy for this step. Removing the axle from the pumpkin is just what you said: prying it to compress the metal compression C-thingy until it slides right out of the pumpkin? Only one axle has to be removed, right?
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

It's a royal PITA to get it out of the hub. You can use your air hammer for this, but a regular old BFH might work better. Mine actually came out pretty easy, what we ended up doing on Jeremi's was leave the axle in (frozen to) the hub, and cut a small amount off of the bolt that normally won't come out with the axle in there. You'll see what i mean when you start taking it apart.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

Dave, your talking about getting the control arm bolt out so the axle can slide all the way out.I'm talking about getting the axle itself out of the hub.Do NOT use any kind of hammer for that.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

The axle should pop right out of the pumpkin. At most you might need a small pry bar to gently push it out. To get the axle out of the hub, i needed a hammer.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

I just cut a straight edge in the BIG round head on the bolt.Then it slides right out.And when I put it back in I put it in the way Ford should have from the factory.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

I'm not following what you're saying here: "BIG" round head on the bolt? I don't know which bolt you're talking about.

While on the subject of being on the hub end of the axle, it looks like only the upper knuckle bolt (holds bearing/hub/knuckle to upper control arm) looks like it needs to be removed. Is there enough play in everything at that point to punch the axle towards the pumpkin - enough to removed it completely from the hub? I would suspect this to be true. It looks like you'll have a dangling hub with its axle being removed. The other side of the rear suspension stays assembled?

If this is the case, then the rear alignment should stay intact too, right?
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

You will need to remove the entire spindle, all 3 bolts, to get the halfshaft out far enough. On the bottom, one of the bolts has a large flat head with a little hex head in the middle. It's too big to clear the cv joint, so you have to pound the halfshaft out of the hub to get it out, OR cut a little edge off the head of that bolt, so it slides out. If you do it that way, you don't even have to remove the one-time-use nut on the end of the halfshaft.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

if we only did this before hammering on the halfshaft ... lol.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

... If you do it that way, you don't even have to remove the one-time-use nut on the end of the halfshaft.

Now, there's something I didn't know.:)

I didn't have a problem using a 3 lb hammer to lightly persuade the axle from the hub.

Enough about the hub and half-shaft.

My PITA was the removal of the ABS sensors. Also, we had to use a torch to heat the nuts on the mounting bolts for the rear end, both front and rear.

After that, I broke the plastic vent fitting. No biggie, I found that a 1/8" NPT brass fitting will thread right into the aluminum housing.

All in all, assembly went smoother than disassembly.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

What is sounds like you're describing is the removal of the entire rear hub/spindle. That's fine with me if it's easier overall. You mention a "hex head" - that usually means specialty tool. Is this where the T-50 Torx comes in?

If this entire hub is removed, is there a way to do it to maintain rear alignment? I'd hate to screw the alignment up!

Just from memory of what it looks like back there, I would think that just taking off the 36mm nut and working the axle out (with, perhaps tilting and angling the spindle) - this would free it on the outboard end and it could be easily pulled out of the pumpkin from there.

Does anyone know the engagement depth of the axle in the spindle?
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

The torx tool is used to remove the lower control arm bolts. Alignment is no issue when you match mark the lower bushings in their relaxed condition. Do not forget the washers that go to the inside of the control arm/hub assembly.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

Don't even bother taking the 36mm nut off. The axle will still not come out of the spindle. Just do what everyone says and put a flat spot on that lower bolt. Trust me you will see what we are talking about. Make sure the two torx head bolts are assembled the same way they came out. If the rear is pre-loaded with fluid, you only need one container of friction modifier. Make sure you pre-treat the abs sensors with liquid wrench or something. Mine came out in like 2 seconds without it.

You probably know this already but I would recommend using a floor jack to remove and install the rear, makes for a nice controlled job. While you're at it, make sure your diff bushings are in good shape, I would replace them anyway.

Good luck, its not a hard job, If I did it again it would probably take me like 2 hours start to finish.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

I guess I'll find out what this bolt is when I take it apart. The exhaust looks like it doesn't unbolt too easy either. The right side in on a conventional flange, but the left is clamped and probably crimped. I guess that maybe a torch could be used to persuade it to come off?

The pumpkin is dry and was not prefilled. As I said, I have the friction modifier and a bunch of the synthetic oil. It will probably be neater to fill it once bolted in place.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

My exhaust was no hindrance whatsoever, except for access to the ABS sensor and speedo sensor.

It is easier to prefill the pumpkin. Have you got the plastic half-shaft plugs? While on the bench, pull the plugs, grease the seals, re-insert one plug, tip the untit to the side and pour in the oil and additive. Tip back to level and check for proper level at the plug. Once full, remove other plastic plug and place unit on floor jack. Balance unit on jack while placing in position.

Jacking in place while installing onto the half-shaft seems like it would be an excruciating exercise, but in actuality with two people, one in front and one in back, it's pretty easy.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

Both sides of the exhaust have a flange. On one side it is after the catalytic converter and easily visible, on the other side it is before the catalytic converter and slightly more difficult to get to.

When we did Jeremi's car, we didn't drop the exhuast, we just unhooked the supports and pushed it out of the way, which gave us just enough clearance to get the pumpkin in and out. This requires more than 1 set of hands, though, someone has to hold it out of the way while someone else moves the pumpkin around. On my car, i did the same thing, but i have aftermarket exhaust and had to bend it a little in one spot to get the pumpkin through between the two pipes.
 
RE: 3.73 Pumpkin swap tool & procedure checklist

Thanks for the heads up on the left side flange. I only did a quick peek under the car and didn't see the flange you're talking about. As long as it's flanged, then it's easy to get down.

The pumpkin does have some white-ish/clear-ish looking plugs in it now. I just pulled it back out of the box (everybody on this board would SHOOT (or flame continuously) me if they knew how long I've had this thing and not used it) and the plugs are really plugs! I thought they had holes in them so prefilling wouldn't work. I'll definitely prefill this thing first. I have to say that this thing is pretty cleverly packaged.

I also went out and pulled a wheel off and pre-inspected what everybody is talking about with the Torx, the spindle, etc. It does look like it will be easiest to just remove the entire spindle and take the one axle with it. Any ideas as to which side of the car to start from? Right or left?

I also don't understand why those Torx bolt connections must be marked before disassembly. It looks like all 3 bolts on the knuckle could be merely hand tightened and then lower the car on it and allow everything to settle in place - then reach underneath and tighten the 3 bolts with it being at a normal level. I also don't see how it could affect any alignment. If you placed the jackstands under the lower control arms, it would already be weight bearing and you could just tighten everything up before you put the wheel back on.
 
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