93 mark 8 rear bearings

I'm having the left rear done on my '97 today. I'll let you know what I find out. I believe my shop rate is $65/hour these days. And that's cheap, for this area!

Funny story with that. I brought it in before carlisle, and asked them to check. "I'm pretty sure the left rear is going out." They couldn't find a thing. After the show, I brought it in for an alignment, and sure enough, they noticed. They also found a ball joint that needed to be replaced..

I'll need to pick through the bill to find the actual cost. If I recall correctly, they didn't charge me more than an hour last time they did one. I forget the cost of the actual part.
 
Funny story with that. I brought it in before carlisle, and asked them to check. "I'm pretty sure the left rear is going out." They couldn't find a thing. After the show, I brought it in for an alignment, and sure enough, they noticed.

This happened to my several times on my Mazda 6 that I had. It was like clock work almost, at 150k or so each wheel bearing went out one by one. My mechanic thought I was crazy to ask for them to be replaced because he couldn't hear them, but you get used to how your car "should sound".

One of my wheel bearing went out so fast my mechanic called to ask if I had driven the car there or if it was towed....because it was so bad.

On the Mazda (I know a totally different car) it was just under $300 for each wheel bearing, I would think it would be in the same ball park for a Mark.
 
This happened to my several times on my Mazda 6 that I had. It was like clock work almost, at 150k or so each wheel bearing went out one by one. My mechanic thought I was crazy to ask for them to be replaced because he couldn't hear them, but you get used to how your car "should sound".

One of my wheel bearing went out so fast my mechanic called to ask if I had driven the car there or if it was towed....because it was so bad.

On the Mazda (I know a totally different car) it was just under $300 for each wheel bearing, I would think it would be in the same ball park for a Mark.

He told me that it would be ballpark $250 per side with parts included, he wants to change the shaft also with that as not to have any problems, said it would be for the best to use a new shaft. Guess I'm not crazy about the cost now that you paid $300 per side.
 
If you go to the Panoz site on Ebay you can get new axles and rear knuckles complete with new bearings for cheaper than what he quoted you. The bearings are only about $30 it is the labor getting the knuckles off. Don't forget to get new axle nuts also.
 
If you go to the Panoz site on Ebay you can get new axles and rear knuckles complete with new bearings for cheaper than what he quoted you. The bearings are only about $30 it is the labor getting the knuckles off. Don't forget to get new axle nuts also.

Well I type this as I am getting dressed to go down to the shop and have this job done. My balls are against the wall now anyway to do "shopping". I need the car for a trip to CT this week coming up. If I have to do the one side, I will do that, and get the other side done next payday. I'll let ya'll know what come out of this with some pics.

Thanks to all that gave me advise this week past.
 
Ok. Just picked up the car. It looks like I was charged $75.18 for the part itself. "Wheel Bearing - Sealed Type - Rear Wheel FW115"

"Remove and replace wheel bearing - Rear, one left -- $151.80"
I'm guessing this is two hours labor, at $75/hour.

So, $226.98 before tax

Remember though, this is a '97. although I'd be willing to bet that the bearings are the same.

Good luck!

EDIT: a quick google, lead me here: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-FW115-Hub-Unit/dp/B000ELW7WE Interesting...
 
That's the bearing and should be for 2 of them as they are not very expensive, and they should be all the same for Mark Vllll.
 
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Well got it done just the rear drivers side. Outer bearing was shot.

Now. The air ride was maxed out for some reason in the front so I tried to cycle it with shorting the pin on the Suspention/EVC and grounding it. That didnt work so I had to vent both front sides and then it brought it to ride height. Fine. Coming home the display that shows you the Air condition and stuff started shutting off and on. Got home and parked and now my windows are stuck in the down position. Cant roll them up. when I press the window button, I see the display fade a little bit, that tells me the switches are good. I just disconnected the battery and was going to let it sit for a bit and see what happends. it's going to rain soon so I am screwed with the windows down.

Windows started working now.

Now I have a problem with the A/C console, when I would press the Up window button, it would reset the console to 888 and then cut off. Will stay on sometimes but resets often.

If it's not one thing its another!

Now I have to hit the repair cd and see if I can get some trouble shooting guide of some sort. I just may see if I can replace the whole thing.

I think you call this unit the CCS system? I see one on ebay called the Heater/AC control Unit. 10 bux. Going to bid on it.
 
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Agreed. check the connections at the battery. perhaps they just need to be cleaned or tightened? Would the shop have disconnected it as part of procedure when working on your bearings, and forgotten to tighten it?
 
Agreed. check the connections at the battery. perhaps they just need to be cleaned or tightened? Would the shop have disconnected it as part of procedure when working on your bearings, and forgotten to tighten it?

Dont see the need to disconnect the battery for changing any NON electical parts. Took the battery and alt to PB's and both were bad. They only had the Battery. Will have the Alt on thursday.

The ABS light is solid on. and the airbag light flashes 2 times and repeats. I have a volt meter on the cig lighter and it's going upto 19.6V when I press the gas. I have parked the car until I have the new ALT installed.
 
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