upper control arm help and others

mpfi3100

Registered
Okay, I read all the info I could find, and I have a good idea of what I am doing, but need help with 3 things.

I am working on my 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII (non LSC if that matters, which I don't think will for this car).

First of all, the upper control arm nuts and bolts closest to the firewall.....

They are almost impossible to get too. Is there any tricks to make getting those 2 nuts out (driver and passenger). The airbag assembly has already been removed from the car, so I have access to both sides, and can't seem to get them out.

Second of all, there is like a swaybar link that none of the parts store say exist. I would like to replace them while I am there. Anyone know a part number, or name for them? I call them sway bar end links, but the parts store says this car does not have them, and only has a listing for sway bar bushings (like mounted to the subframe, or frame or whatever it is called on this car.... Sorry, used to working on my FWD Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme).

Last, the new LOWER control arms, there is a circle opening between the ball joint, and the strut mount. There is a metal shaft that goes through it with a massive nut on the end. Stabilizer? Anyways, the bushings that go in there (A 2-piece thing), anyone know where I can get those? Mine are rotted out and I would like to put new ones in there when done.

I did as much searching as I could, but without knowing proper names, searching for "bushing thingie" and "sway bar thingie" does not work so well.
 
The "sway bar thingie" is indeed sway bar end link.

thumbBuilder.ashx


http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/partBrowser.aspx?partId=516

The "bushing thingie" is the rear strut rod bushing.

thumbBuilder.ashx


http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/partBrowser.aspx?partId=583
 
Also contact MAx at 5Star Ford in Arizona. He gives us great deals on OEM stuff and he know shis stuff when it comes to Ford parts.
 
As for as that drivers side nut by the firewall. There is no trick. Just turn it a little at a time. A gear wrench helps speed it up.
 
Check Amazon too.....

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24182&highlight=amazon

Here is my thread/write-up on the upper nuts.....

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=31249

Make sure you read this thread and pay special attention to the sleeve lenths.

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=20798&highlight=control

Good reads here

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=23392&highlight=control

Ohh...found my pictures!

Shows how to double wrench in order to "break loose" the nut and then you can just loosen the bolt to take it off.

18MM Ratchet Wrench and 19MM Open End for leverage
PIC248-1.jpg


In this picture, you can see how I reached UNDER the master cylinder to assist the ratchet wrench onto the nut. You can actually see the wrench on the nut, just to the left of the hood strut rod.
PIC255-1.jpg


This picture shows the nut (and bolt sticking out) by the red wire, directly under the brake line nut in the master cylinder. (its in the shadow)
PIC249-1.jpg


Ratchet Wrench on its target.
PIC254-1.jpg

PIC250-1.jpg


Double Wrenching for leverage just to "break it loose". Then I used my impact wrench to loosen the bolt while holding the wrench.
PIC251-1.jpg

PIC252-1.jpg
 
you guys (and gals where applicable) are AMAZING.

I found the easiest way for me was to break off the alignment holder piece after the strut was removed and ratchet it while holding the PITA nut with a wrench.

Might not be the best way to do it, but it worked for me.

I hope to have this finished tomorrow. Both upper control arms are in, and the drivers side is almost all the way back together. Only stopped now because I broke a tool and have to wait for a friend to get here to run to the parts store.

For the 2 parts that I still need, I am going to have to wait til payday to get them, but that is next week. I will only have to drive the car for 4 days with the old ones still in. Looking at how it is all set up, it should not be that hard to get the new ones, but the local parts store still insist those parts do not exist. I will order them from supercoupe once my paycheck goes in.

Thanks again for all your help.
 
As for as that drivers side nut by the firewall. There is no trick. Just turn it a little at a time. A gear wrench helps speed it up.

Of course there is a trick. I'll try and dig up the photo I took a while back, but it's easier than pie.
 
okay, I got it all back together today, and it is a hell of an improvement. I still need to replace the sway bar end links, and the rear strut rod bushings, but I cant even order those til payday.

My upper control arm's balljoints were beyond shot. I am amazed that they held together this long.

2011-03-18141835.jpg


It was a pain to get it all done, but only because I am almost a total newbie to working on anything other than GM. The front suspension is both EASIER to work on, and more complex than what I am used too, but all in all, it was a great learning experience. It might not be the best thing to learn on, but I REALLY feel good about what I got accomplished.

Now to just get the rest of the parts in, and get an alignment and it should FINALLY pass inspection.
 
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Good work! Not sure what you mean on the driver side bolt/nut. I just broke the "flags" off like you mentioned andused an air gun on the bolt after loosening the nut a 1/4 turn.
 
all i do, is remove the strut, then you can look up in the strut tower from inside the wheel well and see the bolt that goes through toward the brake booster, those are flag bolts, they have a piece of steel on the head that stops the bolt from spinning when you remove the nut, you can pry the flag off the bolt head with a flathead screw driver, then put a 15 mm 6 point socket on the bolt and use a breaker bar to break it loose, then keep your 18 mil wrench on the nut, and use a ratchet to back the bolt out, thats how i do it anyway. takes 1 minute to get the bolt out.
 
That is what I did. I removed the bolt from the inside with the strut out.

I am running a small list of more things I need. My drivers side height sensor is broken. It was held on with zip ties. The metal tabs that lock it in were broken off and held on with superglue, or something.

I have it on now (zip tied), and I want to replace it, but for now it is stable and the ride height is even.

I drove the car and it is close to aligned. It only has a slight pull to the right, but the car is even, all roughness is gone, and I no longer have the loud groaning/creaking noise from the front.

I still have a noise up there, but I think it is from the end links and bushings. I am positive that once I get those in it will all go away.

The car drives straight, does not pull hard when braking anymore, and the best part is, the steering wheel is no long tilted at a 90* angle.

LOL. It is starting to drive and feel like what I feel this car is suppose to be like.

This car has come a long way, and a lot of people told me I should have junked it and got one that was in better condition. I am glad I didn't though. I am getting it more and more to where it is just cosmetic things that it needs (like the front passenger fender). There is so much raw potential in this car.

I call it my raggedy lincoln, but I say it with LOVE.
 
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Lol!
 
FML.

Yesterday morning on my way to work, near disaster happened.....

I was making a left hand turn and went, "what the hell?" The car was driving like one of the brakes was TOTALLY locked up, and had a real rough ride.

I pulled over to check for a flat tire (Cause that is what it felt like), but the tires were all fine. As I was taking off again (around 15-20 mph), my drivers side lower ball joint sheared off, and took the upper balljoint out with it.

the good news: I am fine, and both of the control arms will be replaced under warranty.

the bad news: When it broke, it shoved up against the airbag and punctured it.

I will get the broken parts out tomorrow sometime and get them exhanged, but don't know what I am going to do about the airbag.
 
What was the warranty? Did they do work that failed or was it just a new buy warranty? If it was work done warranty, they should also replace the bag......
 
Your local parts store probably doesn't handle TRW parts if they can't find you the Sway Bar links for your front end part # 1828. Try some where else.
 
here are some better pics of the carnage.

Lower balljoint sheared off, and jerked out the upper balljoint. Upper control arm's only noticable damage is the missing boot around the balljoint and some slight twisting of the metal from impact.
balljoint4-1.jpg


The air strut took the more damaging blow. It is punctured in 2 spots, and it actually tore the seam near the upper collar.
balljoint3-1.jpg


and of course the obligatory inner wheel shot from the blower control arm impacting and riding on the rim as I had to get the car home.
balljoint1-1.jpg
 
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