My car is killing me!

D

dogg54

Registered
1998 Mark VIII LSC just picked up from Ford dealer after having relay, module, and sensor replaced for my air ride system. I'm driving home and discover I have no heat or air. Call the dealer back, take the car back, and now I'm told I need an EATC Module but can't locate a new or used one. WTF Does anyone know anything about this or where to get one and how to install it? The dealer prices are killing me, plus they say my car is too old and they don't make them any longer. Living in SD makes heat and air a necessity. Please help!!
 
Search "blend door" I highly doubt you have a faulty EATC module. Either that or your HVAC fan connector needs to be replaced. The connector is behind the glove box and the terminals can become loose. Give it a wiggle and see if it turns on. I has luck just taking a small screw driver and bending the prongs to give it more contact force (with the plug removed of course). You need to stop taking your car to the dealer and read up on the common issues here. It will save you a lot of money!!
 
Thanks for the suggestion but I am an old lady who knows nothing about repairing automobiles. I thought if someone here helped me I could pass the advice on to my husband who would attempt to repair it. In January someone broke the LED light that goes across my trunk lid. Body shop had my car for 3 months, no clue. I joined this forum and some kind person gave me his phone number and I gave it to the body shop. They called him and he told them where to get the part and sent picture directions on how to fix it! When I picked it up from the body shop is when I had the air ride issue. I once again came on here for help but wasn't so lucky that time. i took it to a mechanic who worked on it for a week, charged me 400.00 and said he didn't have a break out box and to take it to the dealer. Picked it up yesterday for $1,000.52 and now I have no heat or air. Took it back and they made sure they had everything plugged in because they had been in the dash replacing a module. Said everything was plugged in and right and gave me a paper that said:

HEATER FAN INOP. NO AIR FROM VENTS. NEEDS EATC MODULE. NO REPAIR NO CHARGE.

So now I need help, a gun, or a new car.
 
Sound like you need a more competent place to take you Mark to.
What the heck did they do for $1000.

I think if they were in the dash they messed up the fan connector behind the glove box. I assume everything was working just fine before they got it.
 
So go talk to the owner of the shop!!! It was working before they worked on it and not after they worked on it..... duh!
 
95blklsc already helped you with his post. This is a common problem that is easily fixed.

If you or your husband can't check the heater blower motor wire connector behind the glove box, take the car to a different mechanic and ask him to check the connector for you.

Any good mechanic or even a good backyard mechanic can easily check this. Sometimes all it requires is cleaning the contacts and plugging it back in.
 
the blower motor is under the dash behind the glove box in the corner. There is a short 2-wire cable between the controller and the motor. See if it is connected. Also try wiggling it and manipulating it. It is common for it to develop a loose connection at the motor. The cable is very inexpensive. It is easy to replace although if you are not used ot removin the connectors it may get difficult.
 
also, the controller that the cable plugs into could be shorted it out. Over time moisture can drip down on it and build up calcium dposits on the circuit board. The controller can be dissasembled and the circuit board cleaned with denatured alcohol. The controller slides out. A dealer would never do this, but an independant shop may. A dealer would just tell you to buy or locate a new one. It helps to remove the glove box when working in this area.
 
dogg54 said:
HEATER FAN INOP. NO AIR FROM VENTS. NEEDS EATC MODULE. NO REPAIR NO CHARGE.
Click to expand...

If the dealer reported this, they did not follow the diagnosis and testing procedure in the factory manual.

The Blower Motor Does Not Operate

  • Circuitry open/shorted.
  • Blower motor.
  • A/C blower motor speed control.
  • Blower relay.
Click to expand...

If you notice, no mention of the EATC is given in this troubleshooting step. As previously mentioned, the small wire harness between the blower motor speed control and blower motor is a common malady.

If the blower motor harness is the problem, HERE is a link to a technical write up for this problem.

The blower motor speed controller can also be at fault if there are signs of corrosion from water intrusion into the passenger cabin from this area. Point is, there are several diagnostic procedures the dealer should have performed before announcing the EATC module needs replaced.

"No air from vents" could have another meaning as well. Is the blower motor working at all or is the air being blown from the defroster vents only? If the blower motor is working but air is only coming from the defroster vents, there is a vacuum problem likely associated with the dash removal.

You can also easily self-test the EATC module for electrical concerns. To self-test the EATC, follow the procedures here:

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

  • The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
  • The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
  • The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
  • To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
  • If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
  • If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
  • To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
  • To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
  • Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).

Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
Click to expand...

There have been cases of the EATC self-test not operating as described, so do not jump to conclusions if that indeed is the case. Most likley the EATC module is not at fault from the description given. But if no DTC's are given, you can be assured the EATC module is not at fault. IF indeed you do have DTC's reported, post them here for further analysis.

The dealer has already demonstrated their deficiency and lack of knowledge, I would not return the car there! Find a local shop who is willing to follow the advice given here and you will soon enjoy the car again. ;)
 
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I would also ask to speak to the stealership service department MANAGER and tell him what a bunch of nudniks he has working for him, and complain!

Unless he is head nudnik.
 
What next?

What next?

Thanks for all your help! My husband ran the test, came back with 888 and flashed all the controls. No DTC's. He also checked the fan connector wires, cleaned the connections and made sure all the wires were fine. Put it all back together and still no air blows from any where. EATC board shows no sign of corrosion or burnt wires, actually all wires looked fine and were tightly connected . What's my next step? Do i try to replace the blower motor or the EATC board which I'm having difficulty even trying to find one.
 
If you can't find out anywhere else, I have one. But between you and me, It is NEVER usually the board! I'll send you my spare if you'll send it back after you find out that it isn't the EATC. All you pay is shipping both ways.
 
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dogg54 said:
What's my next step? Do i try to replace the blower motor or the EATC board which I'm having difficulty even trying to find one.
Click to expand...

Given the EATC passed the self-test, it is highly unlikely to be at fault.

Let's go back...

The Blower Motor Does Not Operate
  • Circuitry open/shorted.
  • Blower motor.
  • A/C blower motor speed control.
  • Blower relay
Click to expand...

First I would check the fuse(s).

Fuse 29 (40 amp)
Fuse 9 (10 amp)

Then I would check the blower motor relay. Usually the best way to check a relay is to replace with a known working one.

Then I would check the blower motor itself by rigging up 12 volts and a ground to the blower motor.

That would be my shade tree approach. ;)

The factory troubleshooting manual is much more involved in the pinpoint tests - starting with measuring voltage at the blower motor speed control.

Disconnect the 5 pin harness connector at the blower motor speed control. Check for voltage at circuit 536 (BK/LG) (I would presume with the car running and the EATC controls on).

If that circuit has voltage (over 9 volts) and the blower motor is not running, the next step is to bypass the blower motor speed control.

Using 12-gauge jumper leads, connect the blower motor speed control connector Pin C210-1, Circuit 536 (BK/LG) and Pin C210-2, Circuit 57 (BK) to the 2 pin blower motor connector C265.

IF the blower operates at high speed with the blower motor speed control module bypassed, that may indicate a faulty blower motor speed control module IF the the voltage between the blower motor speed control connector Pin C210-3, Circuit 184 (T/O) and ground is 4 volts or more coming from the EATC with the blower motor speed override control to maximum.

Of course that is my presumed course of where the diagnostics would lead to. ;)
 
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