Engine Running Rough.

Nyghtshayd

Registered
Yeah, Happy Holidays everyone. I just got loose...(clears throat)

Any how, I got in Nyghtshayd and started her up ok. When I stopped at the end om my driveway(bout 60ft) I got a disturbing reaction like the engine didn't want to stop and then it started to studder...Glug,glug,glug,glug... and when I gave it gas it studdered thru the drive range. It idles smooth until I put it in drive.
The shop across the street from me said it was an exhaust leak or clogged CAT.
Any idea what's going on folks?
 
You should be getting some code from the Check engine light. Also check to see if your complete electrical system is up to snuff. Our cars are big power users and if an alternator and or battery is failing all sorts of strange things start to happen. Get back to us with what you have.
 
Will do.
Had a CE light for a bit, went on and off periodicly. I am gonna put the CID sensor in tomorrow before work.
 
My wires were arching but they were under warranty so FREE REPAIR!
Curious though because they are less than a year old...
 
I've had a set of wires that went bad too that weren't very old. Guess it just happens, the replacement set lasted a good 50k miles (which is when I sold the car)
 
Oops! Sorry I got carried away somewhere else...(clears head)
I got the Auto Zone High-Grade, Life-Time, Keep-da-Box special...Wires.

Man! Now a bunch of other stuff is acting up on Nyghtshayd...
Engine pulse surges at idle and at stops.
Signals don't work all the time.
And I still havent figured out what's making my airbag light give the code 44.

(see signature)
 
Sounds like you are running on an almost ready to croak battery or weak alternator. Electric prob from weak/bad batteries cause all KINDS of problems with the Mark VIII.
 
But do yourself a favor do NOT get any rebuilt unit fro a gen 1. They all are Mitsubishi units. The rebuild parts that are available are terrible. I once went through 5 alternators from AZ before I got one that even functioned!! That one only lasted a short time. I finally went and bought a PA Performance unit that is for a Gen 2 mark. You could go that route or just buy an oem gen 2 alternator and a new pigtail for it. You will loose the OEM core charge also because you don't have a gen 2 alt. The only mod necessary is lengthening the pigtail slightly to make it work. I opted for the PA performance unit because cost was similar, they offer powdercoating at a reasonable price (30-40) and they have a lifetime warantee. They use factory cases but their own internals.

Cheapest bet is to go find a junkyard with a gen 2 unit, cut the pigtail out while you are at it or buy a new one from rockauto.com or pa performance for about $10.
 
I'll Do IT!
So... no one thinks its the clock spring causing any of the turn signal or Airbag light problems?
 
Sounds like you have multiple problems....have you messed with the clockspring lately? If so, yes for the airbag/turn signal problems.
 
Well, if you haven't had the steering wheel off....prob not, but I wouldn't completely rule it out either..
 
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