Blend Door Replacement

DLF

Registered
So....

I'm on step 21, and it's not very clear.

"21. Remove the two screws on the top underside of the instrument panel. Pull the instrument cluster finish panel back."

The instrument trim panel should be removed completely? It feels like I'm going to break the thing in half. And it doesn't say anything about the wiring for the headlight switch, which will obviously need to be disconnected if this panel is removed.

Any tips?
 
Yes, the panel has to be removed in order to remove the center display which in turn gives you access to the top bolts for the actuator. Of course, the HL switch has to be disconnected and removed.

Skip the step where they tell you to unbolt the column from the dash. Leave in place, there is enough movement in the shaft assy if needed. The whole article should be re-done, as the whole job doesnt' take more than 2 hrs.
 
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you dont have to touch that panel at all. here it is in a nutshell. take the top panel off the dash next to the windshield, there is seven 10 mm bolts holding the top of the dash to the firewall. remove the center console completely. remove the shifter handle. behind the console, under the center of the dash is a small steel bracket to the right of the gas pedal, remove the two 12 mm bolts. under the climate control is two more nuts, 11 mm, remove them. remove both kick panels left and right, behind each one is a 15 mm nut holding the dash, remove them, and lastly there is another 15 mm nut on the driverside, remove the lower dash panel under the steering column, once you do this, remove the wiper delay module that is in plain site after said panel is removed, it usually has gray duck tape on it, the other 15 mm nut is through that hole where the wiper delay module is, right near the ebrake mechanism. once all these nuts and bolts are removed, gently pull the right side of the dash away from the firewall. it will come away about 8 inches, plenty of room to see and reach back to remove the blend door. you do not have to remove the message display, stereo, eatc, no facial panels on the dash, nothing, you do not even need to unbolt the steering column, if you dont believe me, continue doing the job with what you read in the directions you have and wonder why i can do this job start to finish in 90 minutes. i have done about 18 blend doors and the first one i did took me 6 hours, because i went by some write up online too, i have learned that there is absolutely no reason to tear the entire car apart to do this, its one of the easiest " hard " repairs to do on a 97-98. its a walk in the park i love doing them, easy money.
 
i wouldnt waste my time with wire, the new assembly is redesigned and wont break like the old one. i mean if you go through all the trouble to get the old one out, why wire it up for a temorary bandaid or spend 40 bucks roughly and fix it right. thats just me, max at 5 star ford could get you one alot faster than 10 days. contact him.
 
The one I just took out had a p/n ending in -AE, the new one ended in -AF, and I'll be damned if I could see any difference.
 
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the difference is, the one you removed from the car , you can pull the black arm off the actuator motor, the new one doesnt come off, its part of the actuator.
 
I'm glad I found your post. Did as you said and got the actuator off. It was broken. You need to be a contortionist to reach in there. By the way there is only 6 screws on top not 7 on my 98.:wink:

Ron
 
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