intake

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i have a 98 lsc and i was wondering if there is anyway to get the stock intake to breath a little better. Ive heard its not the best intake and i was looking to get a 96-98 cobra intake on it but they can be expensive so im looking for a cheaper solution if porting it is at all an option.
 
What is your ultimate goal?

Nothing you do will yield even 5hp unless you start swapping hardware...
The stock setup is fairly efficient as is, unless you go cobra intake and the bang for the buck is very questionable.
 
my goal isnt as much horsepower but rather id like to see my car hit mid to low 13's on just the motor
 
I'd start with gears/converter/exhaust/chip.

Even with those you'll be at low 14s at best.

Low/mid 13s on a mark almost always require either NOS/Forced induction.
 
yes, but he wants all motor and to get into 13s then i think he will need to do that in addition to all the other stuff.

Lonnie's carbon fiber TC will get another 1/4 to 1/2 second...but it's $900. Not sure where that fits into the bang vs buck lineup.
 
I presume you mean from a stock converter? :rolleyes:

From ANY non-carbon fiber unit...that 700 hp Mustang benefitted by 1/2 sec going from his prior high performance unit to the carbon fiber. Upgrading from a stock TC will yield even better figures.
 
I would definitely be interested to see what it could do in the Blue Flame. I suspect since my HP is 1/2 that of the test mule, my gains would be 1/2 that at best. So we may be talking 1/8 to 1/4 second in the ET, but still... a hefty promise for the money. But, I've had more than one person say I need more stall with the heads I have. I'm just not sure how streetable a 4500 stall converter would be. :D

Now, if the converter I have would happen to give up the ghost... :rolleyes:
 
I would definitely be interested to see what it could do in the Blue Flame. I suspect since my HP is 1/2 that of the test mule, my gains would be 1/2 that at best. So we may be talking 1/8 to 1/4 second in the ET, but still... a hefty promise for the money. But, I've had more than one person say I need more stall with the heads I have. I'm just not sure how streetable a 4500 stall converter would be. :D

Now, if the converter I have would happen to give up the ghost... :rolleyes:

That would be correct. The test vehicle had much more torque that needed harnessed with a better TC.

As for higher stall, I was running a 3800 rpm in my Mark before I went to that one from another source that failed first time at WOT. Now it was supposed to be a 4000 - 4200 and I was planning on running it on the street since the 3800 wasn't bad. Also remember I'm running a 3600 stall in my Town Car and I still get 17 - 18 in the city and 24 highway. It also depends on how efficient the TC is. Something like the PI your run is not very efficient. It has much more torque multiplication so it hits hard out of the hole so your short times will be good. But down the track when your rpms are up there you are losing acceleration do to the inefficiency of the setup. That's why you will see some cars get left at the light but catch up and pass others mid track with basically the same hp, weight and gearing.
 
Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.304 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.1.20.06.3.1.20.0)

The PI is in the '96 and it is 3500 stall.

The '93 Blue Flame has the 3800 from you back when DirtyDog built them?

I don't have any issue with the 3800 stall and may consider an upgrade if I could somehow convince myself it would gain a couple tenths without losing street manners.

What I really need to see is the dyno curves to make an educated decision.
 
Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.304 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.1.20.06.3.1.20.0)

The PI is in the '96 and it is 3500 stall.

The '93 Blue Flame has the 3800 from you back when DirtyDog built them?

I don't have any issue with the 3800 stall and may consider an upgrade if I could somehow convince myself it would gain a couple tenths without losing street manners.

What I really need to see is the dyno curves to make an educated decision.

I can't remember off the top of my head if it was one of Rusty's TCs or if it was one of the DD units. If it was a DD unit it was back when he used Rusty's kit and worked at a TC shop with good equipment so it is a good TC.

I don't have any dyno graphs to show you. It's been awhile since I tuned anything with that much stall (over 4000) and a pretty much mild 4V. I'll look and see what I can dig up.
 
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