Electrical Failure

I'll be sure to do that! I'm a little more than curious myself! If it were warmer, I'd have done some investigating here at home, but below freezing without a garage isn't my cup of tea!

Come hang out up here... it can be below freezing in a garage... :D

:D -J
 
I'll be sure to do that! I'm a little more than curious myself! If it were warmer, I'd have done some investigating here at home, but below freezing without a garage isn't my cup of tea!

Hey Bud, the aftermarket ballasts that come in the HID kits are typically made in China, and CAN be pure crap. I had one that worked fine cold, but was reluctant to refire after making a quick stop somewhere. After I replaced it, I opened it up (being a quality engineer with electronics background) and found defects that junior college vocational dropouts would not make. And they like to fill the completed assemblies with a black pseudo-conformal coating - probably to hide their sad mistakes.

It could be that one of those ballasts shorted internally and took out other systems. Check your fuses.
 
Definitely, the aftermarket HIDs are junk in terms on quality, and the only thing they have going for them is the price, can't beat that.

Dealer is going to tell to remove it or they won't even touch it (or something of that sort).
 
I was wondering about those ballasts.......I do know that they would not fire correctly if I didn't already have the engine running...like only one headlight would come on..... turn lights off, start car, turn on lights, worked well.
 
I was wondering about those ballasts.......I do know that they would not fire correctly if I didn't already have the engine running...like only one headlight would come on..... turn lights off, start car, turn on lights, worked well.

It might be too late for you, but you may first want to replace the bad ballast (both if the culprit won't reveal itself), then fix the other malfunctions.
 
Can't do anything until I get the car back from dealer.....if they don't find anything, I'll disconnect them and see if it runs ok.
 
They finally called....lots of time to locate the problem I guess....Lots of $ for labor anyway....! They claim they found "bent pins" in the SCIL module. They were able to straighten them. Next thing he said was "...and if it happens again, we're gonna replace the module." Asked if they were still available, he said yes and I asked "About $300.00?" He said Yeah, how'd you know? HAHAHAHA Told him, if it does it again I can get one for less than 1/3 that delivered to my door! He said..."OH....so I guess we'll never know if it does it again, eh?"

I pick it up tomorrow...I was out of town today. I'll be turning on the lights before I leave!

You were right there, Bill!!
 
I'm glad you got it fixed Bud!

I was a little shocked to see how many circuits were involved with that SCIL module. These Gen 2's are still new to me, at least we know some of the symptoms to look out for now.

I wonder how the pins got bent?
 
After finding out WHERE the module is located, I figure that they were damaged by the same dealer that repaired it.....they did a warranty repair of the blend door WAY back around 2001 or 2002. It's amazing that it took THIS long for them to just show the damage now. Maybe not, but I haven't been behind the glove box for anything else!
 
Bud, can you clarify the "bent pins" in the SCIL module - did they mean bent pins in the connectors? Just curious because I am experiencing a strange electrical draw in my 97 LSC that drains my battery (and the electrical draw increases from 180 ma to 230 ma when I plug in the fuse for my interio lights). I am thinking the SCIL might have something to do with the problem.... maybe the same thing as your problem as I have tested my battery and alternator which are both fine.

Annoying problem for you but at least the solution appears to have been relatively simple....
 
As I wasn't able to "see" these so-called 'bent pins' and I don't know what the SCIL module even looks like, I can only assume that bent pins are the connectors ins on the module..... as in someone bent these pins by attempting to plug the connector into the SCIL wrong or at an angle and partially pushed one (or more) of the pins out thru the end. This would result in the pins sitting against the connector (making partial contact). Timer and vibration eventually made the pin (s) to lose contact.

If it fails on me again I plan on having a spare handy to replace the complete SCIL module.

Jamie, when I recover from this bill for labor, I will be ordering one from you......
 
If you're lucky, it was bent pins on an connector.

I have my doubts on the bent pins theory but I did suspect it had something to do with the SCIL module. My theory is not fully resolved but I would suspect a issue with the aftermarket ballasts not being compliant with the SCIL requirements.

Let's hope the issue doesn't return. ;)
 
I will say this about the ballasts.....If I leave the headlight switch on AUTO, it will NOT light both lamps if you attempt to start the car in the dark. The message center will tell me that I should "CHECK HEADLIGHTS". I turn headlight switch from AUTO to ON and they both light off ok. Now, that said, if I start driving in the light, and have the light switch in AUTO, they will both come on when the outdoor lighting calls for them to turn on.

I was told by the person I bought them from that this would happen however. His personal vehicle IS a Mark VIII - Gen II.
 
I will say this about the ballasts.....If I leave the headlight switch on AUTO, it will NOT light both lamps if you attempt to start the car in the dark. The message center will tell me that I should "CHECK HEADLIGHTS". I turn headlight switch from AUTO to ON and they both light off ok. Now, that said, if I start driving in the light, and have the light switch in AUTO, they will both come on when the outdoor lighting calls for them to turn on.

I was told by the person I bought them from that this would happen however. His personal vehicle IS a Mark VIII - Gen II.

I don't have any issues like that with my recently installed HID kit. Which type do you have, the older, larger ballasts, or the newer, "digital slim" ballasts?
 
The kit was called/named V-HID headlight System, 9006 series. I bought and installed these in Sept/Oct of 2008, so they have been in for 15 months. I have no idea ofwhat the diff is between slim and "old style"? Mine are about 1/2 " thick. 2 1/2 X 3 1/2
 
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I occasionally have that problem with one of my aftermarket ballasts. I exchanged it with a new one and have the same problem, but not as often. I make sure the car is running when I turn the lights on and I don't use the autolamp.

I swapped the ballasts from left to right so I know it's the ballast. The one has always worked fine.

I think it's just because it's a cheap ballast and needs a real good power connection.

This summer, I plan on replacing the stock wires going to the ballasts with a larger gage wire. Have you seen how tiny those stock wires are?:(
 
I occasionally have that problem with one of my aftermarket ballasts. I exchanged it with a new one and have the same problem, but not as often. I make sure the car is running when I turn the lights on and I don't use the autolamp.

I swapped the ballasts from left to right so I know it's the ballast. The one has always worked fine.

I think it's just because it's a cheap ballast and needs a real good power connection.

This summer, I plan on replacing the stock wires going to the ballasts with a larger gage wire. Have you seen how tiny those stock wires are?:(

Great Bill....be sure to post on how that worked for you. As I said, it was in my instructions NOT to use the auto-lamp feature....but I'm hard-headed too.
 
Yes, I like the fact that the headlight out message still works correctly with these ballasts, but if the wiring upgrade doesn't work, a relay might be the only option.
 
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