300+ RWHP Mark VIII

Mike (burbank) has had great success with his 4000+? stall torque converter. Although I still can't understand how he can manage a 1.5 60' basically off idle with 410's. My PI 3800 3 disc stall in the car now will never ever be even close to that, even with slicks. :) So I think you might want to talk to him to get the recipe on how to set these cars up to launch :)

Mike my car 60' better than yours but it's also a couple of hundred pounds lighter than your car(Prostar wheels,no a/c,no emission crap,empty trunk) and also has bigger stall torque converter. I am sure if your car would loose about 200lbs and got 4200-4500 stall converter it would 60' similar to my car.But your car still does good and it's still luxury car and mine is not with out A/C in 90 degree weather.
 
Nice Job JP!

Nice Job JP!

Dang am I late or what? Id be late to my own funeral here lately. Well God only gave me two hands and arms to work with, so one thing at a time i guess.
Congrats on tweakin out the Blue meanie!. Thanks for sharing the extra pics too. I took special note of the TCs you guys are spinning. Mine was only an Art Carr 3000 stall...That thing must pull like crazy now. I was actually thinking of lowering my gears to a 373 to gain traction and highway RPM's for long distances before she lost to a Grand Prix T bone.

Ill keep checking back on your ride here and other sites as i continue my search for a 95-96 1st genner... Another phoenix will rise from the ashes. Its just going to take some time to find the skeleton for it.

Keep up the great work on blue.:cool::cool:
 
Nice cams :wink:

i just took a closer look at the dyno sheet, wow. It looks like you didn't really peak your RWHP numbers, is that the stock bottom end or no?

based on seeing alot of mark 8 dyno jet sheets with s-trims on them, you probably have more RWTQ than they do since you're running on a MD.

car must be a blast.:D
 
Thanks Jeff, I am just trying to keep up with you. ;)

The bottom end is stock and no those are not peak numbers - peak was up around 6000 rpms at 315ish HP and 330ish TQ.

From what I've researched, it is accepted that the Mustang Dyno numbers are 12% less than the DynoJet numbers but represent more realistic street conditions. That would mean DynoJet numbers may be as high as 350 RWHP and 370 RWTQ?

I would be curious to run the car on a DynoJet to see what it would put down. :rolleyes:
 
I would be curious to run the car on a DynoJet to see what it would put down. :rolleyes:

Me too.
My car put down 470 rwhp on a Dynapack dyno which is similar to mustang dyno(load dyno) and that was with the old torque converter with fried lockup.I would like to throw my car on a Dynojet to see the numbers with new converter and non loaded dyno. My tuner told me his dyno usually shows 10-15% lower then average Dynojets and my converter was slipping on the dyno which according to him car put down about 10-12% Lower numbers then it would with fully locked converter.
 
JP-Congrads on the results of your latest upgrades to "Blue". I am sure you are biting at the bit for the tracks to open up. Look forward to seeing more of your results.
 
I had few different aftermarket torque converters in my car. The first one was Art Carr 9.5" converter with about 3200 stall and my average 60' times were 1.8 to high 1.7 but the converter lockup broke after 2 years of racing.My second converter was 9" thunderbolt non lockup with stall about 5000-5500 rpm.This converter was very good for 60' but driveability was very bad and even with my 2 trans coolers the trans temp in the city was going over 200F so this converter was for full drag car(trailer queen) .My third aftermarket converter and current is Dirtydog 9.5 inch billet with stall about 4200-4500rpm.The dirtydog converter was build to have about 4000-4200 stall but on my car it's more like 4200-4500 stall. This converter is the best I ever had and it does very good at the race track and the driveability is good too and the trans temps stay at around 140F-170F. With ported heads and cams like JP has I would go with atleast 4200-4500 stall torque converter.

You went just about the same route I did...Busted lock up in an Art Carr and a Dirty Dog now from Lonnie, but stalled at 3000. A very good converter indeed.
 
I don't know that much about the trans and torque converter, but I think Aric has this trans tune that he uses on my car that enables him to lock the trans in any gear for a pull - just like a manual trans, and he can also lock/unlock the torque converter. I guess that must be the same proprietary program that he and JW uses, because he has never told me about a botched pull problem.

Lonnie set me up with the same program...3rd gear only, and converter locks at 1500.

Gotta be gentle at low speed, or the stub shaft could snap...
 
Thanks for the props guys! :)

So far my calculations pretty much tell me the minimum stall I should be running is 4200 rpms. I have some more conversion factors to consider but I know enough from going through the routine before, the recommended number will likely go higher - probably around 4400 or so.

Even though the MD numbers are likely lower, the peak of the curves should be the same. So the magnitude is not so much a determinant as other factors. The wild card would be the shift points since I don't believe I have them optimized just yet.
 
Lonnie set me up with the same program...3rd gear only, and converter locks at 1500.

Gotta be gentle at low speed, or the stub shaft could snap...

When The Bradshaw brothers built my transmission, they told me they did something to the stub shaft so that snapping will not be a problem for me. Been 3 or 4 years and who knows how many dyno pulls and track runs now, and so far, so good... :) Props to them. :wave022: That trans is the only part on my car that has not had to be screwed around with after it was built.




Mike my car 60' better than yours but it's also a couple of hundred pounds lighter than your car(Prostar wheels,no a/c,no emission crap,empty trunk) and also has bigger stall torque converter. I am sure if your car would loose about 200lbs and got 4200-4500 stall converter it would 60' similar to my car.But your car still does good and it's still luxury car and mine is not with out A/C in 90 degree weather.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Mike. :) lol I can't even imagine driving the car without A/C here in Hotlanta. I tried to stall that PI TC to the point of the front tires starting to slide, and it was not even worth a full 10th from launching off idle at the track.

Maybe one day I will have it re-stalled to 4500, but for now, I just hope Aric can get the thing to shift. I had a new set of front tires that match the circumference of the DR's put on the car yesterday, so that should fix the bouncing speedo needle, and maybe help with the tuning. :)

Sorry for the hijack, JP :) I agree with the 4k + tc re-stall :wave022:
 
Mike I had a 428 SCJ Mustang and it was a heavy car as I kept the interior in it and tied all the sub frame and added a full floating rear end with ladder bars (alot of metal). I found it turned in the best times when I flashed the TC. This allowed the engine to rev to the power band before really hooking. Just a thought if you haven't tried it yet
 
i am new to stall converters, what do you mean by "flashed"?

It means to launch from an idle at the start. When you launch you are 'flashing' the converter with the sudden increase of throttle.

To 'stall' the converter off the line is to hold the brake (or set the trans-brake) and give it a determined amount of throttle. You then are 'pre-loading' the converter and driveline. When you launch, you release the brake and mash the throttle.

I've done both.

I've found with the stock converter, the car was quicker launching from idle. With my aftermarket converter(s), I have found that loading the converter helps with better ETs.

The caveat is it is much more difficult to be consistent launching from a stall versus launching from idle.

As far as the transmission stub shaft, the usual fix is to get a 'hardened shaft'.

AODShaft3.jpg


http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aode.htm
 
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