Intake swap complete !

Mad1stGen

Registered
Yesterday I finally completed the cobra intake swap on my 1st gen.

It wasn't thaaaaat difficult. Having all the right parts, as well as some experience in car electronic helped a lot. However, I did manage to switch the TPS wires somehow, and as a result the transmission would not downshift and TC would not lock up. After swapping the wires to their correct position all is well.

Car idles and runs fine. I wired the IMRCs to open up correctly, but I'm not sure if they should be open when you start the car. In a way it's similar to 1st Gen imrcs, which stay open until you have vacuum, so I guess that's correct.

The biggest problem I encountered is that the upper intake cover WILL NOT clear the hood. I cut out the support brace in the back along with the 2nd layer around it, and it's still rubbing on it. The hood closes, but the engine vibes transfer to the body. I can't really think of a way it could clear the stock hood.

Now the preformance wise, it was a good mod. Keep in mind, I have few mods already, so the TQ loss isn't that noticeable. However, RPMs climb a lot quicker, the downshifts from 2 to 1 and 3 to 2 are KILLER !!! Tires go up in smoke no problem. Not that that's a good thing LOL. Plus the intake is much louder, so is the exhaust in turn.

I'm having it Dynotuned in two weeks. I'm sure the results will be worth it, but it's all in Jerry's hands.

I really don't know what to do about the hood. I'm good with fiberglass. Maybe I should purchase a small cowl and 'fiberglass' it on there. I'm not sure I like the Legendary hood ... Any ideas ?
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

I like the legendary hood myself, i think it looks pretty cool. Another option is to do you're own scoop or cowl. i wouldn't buy a pre-made cowl and try to glass it on, but you could get some kind of high density foam and glue it on there and shape it how you want. Of course you have to start by cutting a big hole in your hood, which probably won't be all that easy considering the support is already gone in the back, and your hood isn't made of steel.

I believe it was big scott who had to solve that problem with his cougar. You might want to PM him over on modular depot and find out what he used. The pictures i saw of his setup were pretty cool, he's got the SVO mustang look with the scoop kind of off to the side.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

That looks pretty good. Would you put it on as a scoop, or as a cowl? That's really close to the right line.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

have you checked your motor mounts. with bad mounts or even just a little bit wear on them the motor with torque and hit. also you can mill the top of the intake where the ribs are. this will give you just a little more clearence. do you have any pics yet.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Motor mounts have been replaced and have 20 k miles on them, plus I know it's hitting the hood even at idle, or with engine off.

I don't think milling the ribs would be enough, I need maybe 5 mil. or so.

I need to clean up the engine bay, and the pics will be taken then.

Dave, I would mount it as a scoop, since I'm already cutting up the hood, might as well make it functional.
The scoop is only $50, add couple hours of bondo and fiberglass work, and I should be set. I need to paint the front clip anyways ...
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

good one ... LOL
but you know I don't really care how this car looks, as long as it performs o.k. Hell, get me a quote on a complete repaint in a regular single stage paint from your guy, and I'll might do just that.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Single stage????
What you want to paint it every year?

I've heard of people using washers to space down the k member.
2-3 washers on each k member bolt should do the trick.
Sort of like a body lift on a 4x4 but the opposite.Those guys beat the hell out of their vehicles with no harm.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Well, it's actually a 2 stage (color + clear coat) it's just I don't want them to use the 2 diff. colors to create the final color (3-stage). It's a PITA to match that later.

Good idea on the washers. I might do that as a temporary fix.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Awesome, Jeremi. Can't wait to see that sucker soon.

We got to think of a place we can meet up on Sunday.


Jon Ike
95 MKVIII
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MIDWEST CHAPTER [/font]
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Chris, I was looking at your intake install a while back and I think you had the brake vacuum line hooked up to the port by the EGR on the intake. Did you have any problems with that ?

BTW, I had these K bolts out many times, but I can't remember what size they were - like 8mm or thicker than that.

>>> Glad I could help.

We all know you're the MAN !!!
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

I didnt have great vaccuum, but that was partially due to the cams I had.But It was never a problem.Car always had enough to stop fine.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Exactly my point. It's not the back support, it's the area right above the front of the intake that's hitting. I don't know what Dennis did, maybe a combination of K-member spacers, different motor mounts, and the shaving of the fins on the intake, along with the cut out in the 2nd ply. of the hood ... LOL.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

if you wanted solid motor mounts i could make you a set of drop ones. i have billit stock hight ones but maybe a little less and it would be enuf. other wise a hood or space the k-member or mill the hell out of it.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

Only if you can weld up a set of headers at the same time ...

No reason to drop the K without doing the headers.
 
RE: Intake swap complete !

how much material was removed when you port matched the imrcs? I found a lip one eigth inch on all primaries one side only. the secondaries also needed a small amount of attention. imrcs are deleted . the imrcs are almost perfect to the heads. no work there also my secondary intake valves look o.k. egr delete plus lack of oil from oil seperator. I also shortened the runners by volume I didnt have any sand handy so I used rice! to approximate runner volume. any where between 2 1/2 to a whopping three inches. I have my runners setup so I can remove them for fine tuning or custom runner configuration thats next. the existing intake fails to meet the potential of the motors 4 valve high flow heads design. it could have been so much better. the dyno will tell. I presented my latest dyno graph to a guy that told me that my shift points should be just after peak horsepower 5250 on my existing graph after that is is flat it is peak. look at your chart are you still making power stock unmodified you are also loosing torque. he told me after that you are only making noise? and that shifting down to where the power starts to climb will really help.
 
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