Is this a good deal??

S

SNAKETER

Registered
Yo is this a good deal to start out if you have no mods yet, but plan on getting in conjution with a posi and xcal2.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...tegoryZ33731QQihZ016QQitemZ260118934500QQrdZ1

want to slowly bring the best out of the babe but dont want to tear nothing up getting there. I knopw this will make it badass but will i have to , seriously have to get a tourqe converter to see a big diff, or will the xcal2 be enogh for know , also not going to see much track time but still want a badass car, ya know.
 
Not only that, but the ABS ring on the ring gear is going to cause clearance issues. You need a 8.8 out of the 87-95 Mustang GT's.....or equivelant Rangers. I highly recommend going NEW if you want to do it right...or atleast getting a used 8.8, NEW gears, NEW bearings, NEW clutch pack, and a NEW install kit. Basically the only used part you'd need is the "carrier".
 
Sweet thanks guys. I just reenlisted for four more years in the corps so I got 10k and need to spend it wisly cause after taxes 28% and giving my wife 3500 just for being my wife i have 3700 and I'm gettin those 800 dollar rims this weekend and tint and gun or two then gears or something might just get xcal 2and get it retuned every time i get a mod . Wow descisions, descisions.
 
SNAKETER said:
xcal 2and get it retuned every time i get a mod . Wow descisions, descisions.
Click to expand...

If you get the SCT proracer package which can include an Xcal 2 you can "have your cake and eat it too!".

For instance, you get one from Torrie at fastpartsnetwork or justin at VMPtuning they will sell you the tune file they created for you.

Then you can make changes to the tune as time goes on.. then push the tune to your XCal, then from the Xcal to your car.

it's not cheap, but it's very ROBUST and there is a fair amount of support that goes along with it.
For instance..

when you do the "gears" you can consult with your SCTdealer and they can either email you the changes or tell you where to change the tune..

or you can hit the SCT forums and there are ALOT of helpful folks to get you steered in the right direction.

I did it, and I have NO REGRETS almost a year after the purchase.
it's served me well...
Just being able to customize the shift points and torque converter lock up schedules is pretty much worth the entire purchase price.

because what one person FEELS the lock up schedule should be, doesnt mean that is THE lockup schedule for EVERYONE..

since "shift schedules and lock up schedules" are really "subjective to opinion and personal preference".

check it out at www.sctflash.com

Torrie at fastpartsnetwork.com has done tunes for alot of people on this board and "the other board".

Justin at vmptuning.com is one of the dealers who spends ALOT of time on the SCT board helping people out, he's really good people and very helpful.

Let me know if you decide to go this route and I can pave the way for you with one of these well known and respected "calibrators".

I just sent one of my "second gen friends" over to Torrie for Xcal and tunes.
 
Wow...ok, if you have the money, than do it RIGHT.

New Ford Trac-Loc $250
New Ford Racing Gears $200
New install kit(includes bearings) $100
New Drive shaft(somewhere?)$500
New Xcal2 to adjust for the gear change $?
 
I like the sound of the tuner software pack but i aint no spring chicken when it comes to computers. I only 34 but i'm a grunt in the marines, well now im a platoon sergeant but if it is easy enough i can follow dirrections and if it user friendly then i pretty sure i can make it work as .long as there is not alot of math in there i freakn hate math, beer how many and when do i have to be at work can figure stuff like that out or yardage to a target for the mortars and adjust fire that math i can do crazy tuning formula math forget about it. haha.
 
Well.. I'm no math wiz by any stretch of the imagination, but with the help of "windows caculator".. I get by.

ProRacer package isn't what I would call "user friendly" for most people.

I have a decent amount of mechanical knowledge and a decent amout of computer knowledge and with the help of some other proracer users/dealers I have gotten my calibration almost 100% the way I want it.

Of course, having the ability to "tweak" things means that I'll never be 100% complete..{ go figure.. huh?)

If you dont feel comfortable working with your PCM calibration, there are a couple of SCT dealers that I can point you to that will get you pointed in the right direction... and can/will sell you different calibraition/tune settings for just about any normal combination

{unless it's forced induction, and that HAS to go to a dyno to be done properly and safely)

Since you mentioned the Xcal, I thought I'd give you a different approach to using the Xcal and give you a little more control of your destiny than a typical "mail order tune" can provide.

hope it helps, and didn't further confuse you sir.

Tommy
 
J said:
Wow...ok, if you have the money, than do it RIGHT.

New Ford Trac-Loc $250
New Ford Racing Gears $200
New install kit(includes bearings) $100
New Drive shaft(somewhere?)$500
New Xcal2 to adjust for the gear change $?
Click to expand...


Hell yea.. do it right the FIRST TIME..

250ish for exhaust
650.00 for FRPP 373 cobra center section
350.00 X 3 a chip
roughly 1200.00 in "stuff"

ET went from 15.40's to 14.20's
1.2 seconds for 1200.00
.1=100.00 (HAHA)

Since, I have gotten the PRP package..
the cost was 1097.00 for all the software and the hardware.
(software, usb chip burner and blank chip)

But.. it can be had for cheaper with a little research
I think Justin at VMP sells it for roughly 200.00 cheaper than I got mine for
{my bad for not doing more research before purchase)

Usually when you get PRP from a dealer such as Justin, they will provide you with a very good starting point calibration for your combination.
 
SNAKETER said:
can figure stuff like that out or yardage to a target for the mortars and adjust fire that math i can do crazy tuning formula math forget about it. haha.
.
Click to expand...

Funny you mentioned that, because that is what I did with my WOT 1-2 shift.

When I first burned my chip my car was accelerating so much quicker that it was hitting the rev limiter before it shifted.

So I did as you described, I adjusted fire after the rounds were landing downrange..HAHA
 
Gears that high kill gas mileage... I would not have anything over 4.10s on a daily driver. My Mark VIII averaged only 22 or so on the freeway with 3.73... If you don't do much driving over 60-65mph you can go with higher gears...

Don't forget a transmission cooler.
 
XLRVIII said:
Hell yea.. do it right the FIRST TIME..

350.00 X 3 a chip
Click to expand...

Right the first time is always good, lol! What do you mean 350 x 3?

XLRVIII said:
usb chip burner
Click to expand...

Ooooooo...that sounds cool!

XLRVIII said:
I adjusted fire after the rounds were landing downrange..HAHA
Click to expand...

LMAO good analogy! :)

46callaway said:
4.10's-4.56's all the way if you go through the trouble of doing gears.
Click to expand...

I second that......unless you do 80-90% freeway hauls, 3.73's aren't worth the money unless you don't "need" to go taller, like if you had traction issues with a S/C.

I'm VERY pleased with my 4.10's, as I was when I installed 4.10's in my stang. My buddy had 3.27's in his stang and some foo talked him into getting 3.73's....he kicked himself for throwing 800 bucks down the drain....He still got good gas mileage though, haha.(obviously a bigger difference going from 3.07s-3.73/4.10s)
 
Max, you mean "lower" gears. Low gears are 4.10-4.88, "high" gears are 2.73-3.27. A lot of people get those mixed up. Also, the 99 Cobra center section with the 3.73's is no longer available since 3.73's are not popular at all with the Cobra guys.
 
I think he was referring to the ratio number when he said "higher" gears. Its mainly how you learn the lingo I guess.....I call higher ratios "taller" gears, hah.
 
I kick myself every day for getting 373's...

IMHO it was a waste of differential fluid going from 307's to 373's.

hindsight I should have gone with the 410's or 430's.

Now that I have 373's, going from 373's to 410's would be an even MORE WASTE OF DIFF FLUID..there isn't enough "gear difference" to warrant the change..
SO my next gear swap WILL BE 430's!

I wont make the same mistake TWICE..
DO NOT FEAR THE GEAR!
 
46callaway said:
4.10's-4.56's all the way if you go through the trouble of doing gears.
Click to expand...

410's 430's or 456.. I agree..
If your gonna do it.. DO IT!
Dont monkey around with the 373's like I did/AM.

The cobra guys didn't like the 373's for a REASON.. and now that I have had them for 225,000 miles.. I AGREE with the cobra guys.

Once again..
DO NOT FEAR THE GEAR!
 
Haha....its funny because everyone wants to make their car faster, but at the same time, they take a HUGE consideration for gas mileage. Why? Do you want a fast car, or an econo mobile? "Do NOT fear the gear!" and stop worrying about your MPG! Geeez!
 
Funny you mentioned MPG.

Tiff has a basicly stock 94 with 307's
I have a lightly modded 95 with 373's

Our gas mileage averages are within .1-.4 of a gallon on long term averages.

Jeff (SVO) has tiffs old car and his mileage average was within 1-2 MPG of mine and tiffs.

So three different cars, three different drivers have very close to the same MPG and 1 of the car "has gears"...

So pretty much "driving habits" can have an equal effect on MPG

meaning my car with gears can get within 1 MPG of a stock geared car if driven with some care.

Also, having steeper/numerically higher/ gears CAN help MPG in some situations like..city driving where 307s aren't helping MPG, or areas with hills where 307s aren't helping MPG.

I would imagin in the hilly and twistie parts of california, a set of gears might improve gas mileage on these cars.
 
XLRVIII said:
I would imagin in the hilly and twistie parts of california, a set of gears might improve gas mileage on these cars.
Click to expand...

That is very true...easier to get the beast going :D

With my 4.10's I get 22-23 mpg at 70 mph which is only about 4-5 mpg lower than before the gear swap. Still worth the money/fun after the swap!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top