Emergency repairs

S

STUG

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I just bought 93 mk viii(custom auction)......standed outside without running 4 years....Huge rust holes at the both side panels...brakes stuck....
Stopped then in running condition....Brough to auction with a forklifter...
you can imagine.....The price was so cheap that it was going to parts so i had to buy it...I will bring her to life again during next winter.....

Already managed to reset keys thanks to your great forum...

Two emergency repairs needed to drive the car for 15 miles....

First.....On the corner of the tank there is a fountain of gasoline....pipes broken....rusty....fixed one hole and then it blasted again from another place :)....of course.....new pipes will be high pressure rubber....

From the engine room where locates the inlet and outlet connections to fuel....????I will find them but this only for saving time...
I have small outboard tank where i can put fuel pump....
What is the pressure needed?
With that connection i have to switch off the pump from the trunk switch...

With engine running i will solve my second problem....
Suspension pressure......to lift the car up....

However...i dont even need to run the engine if there is another way to add the air from external compressor(have few of those too)???
After that i could tow it to garage....

All suggestions are welcome....

STUG
 
Welcome!

The first thing I would do is to try to get the air ride up.

I would pull out the fuel pump relay (so you don't dump any fuel out when you turn the key on). Then turn the key on (make sure the battery is good first) and see if the air ride pumps up.

I personally wouldn't rig up the fuel system and drive the car. I'd just get it towed on a flat bed tow truck (with the air ride pumped up) and fix it right at home.
 
Get yourself over to the auction and get a shop manual as you are going to need it this would be the very first thing to do. I would agree with Bill that the most expediant and safest method to move the car is by Tow truck. Your current tank is probably full of all kinds of nasty. Our fuel systems are return type and operate with a high pressure pump in tank, the fuel filter is in the inner fender well on the RH side. If your air pump still works you do not need the engine to run as it is an electric pump. Once up, go to turn the air ride switch to off.
 
Opened all the stucked brakes....
Inner plastic cover from passenger side fender removed....
Need to try swapping the relays to pump and find does it work....
Didnt located relay yet...time went with brakes....
What a location for fuel filter!!!!Idiot designing....
Located inlet and outlet hoses....Are the two other houses breathing lines from tank to emission system?Books on the way....
Believe it or not....where i live (homeland of santa claus)the prices for 93 linc are 20K USD!!!!.....Car appears to be Canadian model....
Big THX so far...
 
You live at the North Pole?:)

The compressor relay is near the compressor, just forward of the passenger's side plastic inner fender inside the front of the fender.

The ABS relay is in about the same area of the driver's fender.

Here's a photo of the relay:

relay.jpg
 
WOW I wonder what I could get for my running older 96" DarthV8der".------$100,000.00 Lotto time!!!! LOL
 
Sorry STUG I thought you were talking about swapping the air ride compressor relay with the ABS relay to get the air ride compressor running (common trick to test the air ride relay).

I was under the impression that the fuel pump worked OK because you said there was a fountain of fuel coming out of the broken fuel line.

Also, I put the American quarter in the photo to show the relative size of the relay. The American quarter is the same size as the Canadian quarter. I'm not sure what money you see in the North Pole.:)
 
Sorry guys for delay...we had a national mid summer festival...11 dead...
4 days everybodys drinking there asses off by the sea....i was not exception....

but back to topic.......
Fuel pump is ok...lines need to be replaced....
THX for the picture BIG HELP!!.....i saw that relay allready....it looked like somekind of regulator not relay...
and i thought it so...
Next week i will get it running...
I have restored few cars....few americans too...this cant be worse than leaking hydraulics in old citroens..

Here you can check your car values over here...in euros

www.nettiauto.com

And the home of santa claus and Nokia is of course Finland...
You have been great help once again big thanks!!!!
 
Sorry, I didn't know the real history of Santa.:)

I have good friends originally from Finland. Their last name is Kangas. You might know some of them.:D

Keep us updated on the Mark VIII. We are all here to help.

I hope I spell this right:

SISU
 
Sorry for delay....Yep....you spelled it right!!
Guts you need at this moment...
I still want to get suspension up....Servicebook is on the way and it wont help at the moment.....Replacing the relays(ABS)...didnt help...
I hooked up a meter to relay connector...no current at any point in connector..ignition on...off..Fuses ok..all other electrics works fine...

Im going to pull straight jumper from battery to connector for getting some pressure to the system...
For that i could use little info about electric schematics...
Cant get the clear view to the pump...and im not interested about lottery...
What are the pins in connector??
THX!!
But hey.....it is a really nicely shaped car!!!!
Next summer it will run..
 
As the wiring diagram shows, you should have at least 12 volts at all times, at the black with yellow striped wire on the relay plug. You should also make sure that you have voltage at the fuse.

My red Mark had a problem with this wire and I ran another large wire with a 50 amp fuse inline, directly to the battery. I still need to replace the bad wire properly though.
 
BIG THANKS FOR SCHEMAS!!!
Repaired the wiring....tested with both relays....nothing...
Direct current to pump....nothing....
Good things wont come easy.....its called life...


Ok...heres my plan....Pressurehoses from pump are 4.5mm thick....
For transfer i will cut these 4 hoses and with joints i will add a valve to each pressure line....with compressor(up to 12bar) i can add pressure to each line...lets hope that i dont have to bypass the valves in "airbags" seperately...
Im used to work with pressurelines and all the goodies can be found from the shop nearby...It starts to sound like a challenge...

And when its home....i can put the pump and the rest of it to pieces....

You guys have been great help....you have saved me a lot of time...
Once again big thanks!!!
 
Little update........
All 4 pressurelines cutted and quickrelease pressuresockets(valves included) attached to each tire pressure line.....
With ignition on and external compressor attached to one line nothing happened....
Valves didnt open in the airbags....
So with a airpressure on from external compressor i made a suspension check from the socket under the hood which opens valves for short period to each tire.....repeating that few times and.....
(if you dont let the self test go through the program with opening the circuit between the pins, you dont have to run all the time turning ignition off and on)

Now the lady stands in her own feet!!!!

Clicked the system off from the trunk....I hope she still stands at the morning...if not, it doesnt matter....i can move it now to trailer...

Had already few thoughts about guidable magneticvalves to the system just like in offroads....

THX for all help to everybody!!!!!!
In future i will need:
-New fuel lines
-New brakelines
-New rotors and pads...mayby calibers
-Suspension parts or conversion kit to normal shocks
-Time and cigarets for welding..
 
I hate to say this now (I've been out of town) but you only needed one valve on one airline. They all open up into the dryer.

It sounds like you just have an air compressor problem.

If the bags deflate again, just hook up your shop air compressor to one of your airlines and turn the key on. The airsprings should inflate like normal.
 
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