Oil Pressure Warning Light is ON!!

J

OCCUPY LoD :)
Hey guys.....tell me if my assumptions are correct. When I start my car, my oil pressure light stays on(and my pillar gauge reads zero) for probably 5-10 seconds after I start my car. This has just started recently and only after I had my intake and rocker covers swapped for the red powdercoated ones I bought from Jamie, my driveshaft balanced/straightened, and my oil changed(with a Ford Racing Oil Filter that Serge insisted on using). I have since swapped back to the napa brand to see if that helps, and it didn't. But its getting worse......

So....I'm I right for assuming my oil pump is taking a dump? Nothing in an intake or rocker cover swap could make it take a long time to build oil pressure on initial start up could it?
 
J, I know I don't need to tell you this but don't start the car anymore until you get this figured out or the engine will be damaged. The Ford Racing oil filter did not cause this problem as I have used it multiple times now in my 98 and in the 96 as well. Most likely the problem is either the oil pump is going out or the pickup tube screen is clogged.
 
Nothing in an intake or rocker cover swap could make it take a long time to build oil pressure on initial start up.

Sounds like the oil filter is draining back?

What's the oil pressure once it's up? Usually guys with an oil pressure guage complain of high oil pressure on a cold startup.
 
See, I thought it was the oil filter draining back too, so I installed a Napa Gold, and its still doing it. The oil pressure is 80 while cruising and drops to 30-40 at idle...no issues what so ever. No knocking or anything while the light is on....just no pressure.
 
"Because of the close tolerances that are required inside the oil pump, debris of any kind can cause havoc if it gets sucked into the pump. Anything larger than the minimum internal clearances can score or jam the pump. Debris such as pieces of old valve stem seals, gasket material, plastic chips from a worn timing chain gear, bearing material, casting flashing, sand, dirt, etc., may be harmful or fatal if ingested.

But how can this kind of crud get inside the pump, you ask? The screen that is on the oil pump pickup tube in the crankcase only prevents relatively big pieces of debris from being drawn into the pump, and even then it does not always do that because most pickup screens have some type of bypass valve or vent that allows oil to bypass the screen if the screen becomes plugged or the oil is too thick to pass through the screen. The holes in the screen itself measure about 0.040 inches square, which are huge openings as far as debris is concerned. But the holes are large by design so the screen will flow an adequate amount of oil when the engine is cold and the oil in the crankcase is thick (which is why you should always follow the vehicle manufacturer recommendations on oil viscosity). All this means the oil pump is the only engine component that is continually lubed with unfiltered oil! The oil does not pass through the filter until after it leaves the pump. So any abrasive debris that finds its way into the crankcase will first pass through the pump before it is trapped by the filter. No wonder oil pumps wear out and break.

Restrictions in the pickup tube screen can choke off the flow of oil into the pump, reducing flow and pressure. Even a relatively small amount of varnish buildup on the screen can restrict oil flow at higher engine speeds. A coating only .005 inch thick on the screen will reduce the total "open" area of each hole to .030 inches, causing a whopping 44 percent reduction in oil flow!

The pressure relief valve, which may be located on the pump body or elsewhere on the engine, can be yet another cause of low oil pressure if the valve sticks open or is held open by a small piece of debris. The relief valve is designed to limit oil pressure as engine speed increases. The valve opens when pressure reaches a preset value (typically 40 to 60 psi). This vents oil back into the crankcase and limits maximum oil pressure in the engine. The reason for doing so is to prevent oil pressure from reaching dangerous levels. Too much oil pressure can be just as bad as too little because excessive pressure can rupture the oil filter or even blow out pressed-in oil galley plugs in the block.

Low oil pressure may also be the result of air in the pump. If there is too little oil in the pan, air can be drawn into the pump. But this can also happen if the crankcase has been overfilled. The oil can become aerated (full of tiny bubbles) because it is making contact with the spinning crankshaft and is being churned into foam."


J, time to drop the oil pan and check to see if the pickup screen is obstructed. Good luck...
 
Great........so the pump is in the pan? From reading your little post, it sounds like the debris is in the pump, not the screen........

Wonder if I can remove the filter and blow air back into the feed hole and flush something out? Bahhh.....son of a!
 
Last edited:
The pump is not in the pan. It's on the crankshaft behind the harmonic balancer.

The pickup screen is in the pan though.
 
Thats what I thought! So....I don't have to pull the timing cover, just the balancer and the pump? :) That would be great!
 
Thats what I thought! So....I don't have to pull the timing cover, just the balancer and the pump? :) That would be great!

You wish.

From the manual...

Oil Pump


Removal

1. Remove engine front cover (6019) as outlined.

2. Remove oil pan (6675) and oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) as outlined.

3. Remove timing chains as outlined.

4. Remove crankshaft sprockets (6306).

5. Remove four bolts retaining oil pump (6600) to cylinder block (6010). Remove oil pump.




Installation

1. Rotate inner rotor of oil pump to align with flats on crankshaft (6303) and install oil pump flush with cylinder block.

2. Install four retaining bolts and tighten to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. Replace oil bypass filter (6714) as outlined.

4. Install timing chains as outlined.

5. Install oil pump screen cover and tube and oil pan as outlined.

6. Install engine front cover as outlined.

7. Fill crankcase with specified oil to specified level.

8. Start engine and check for leaks.
 
Oh no!!! Terrible news Jesse...
The oil pressure in my vette reads around 30-40 at idle and 40-50 while cruising... so the Marks go all the way to 80 when cruising?!

I would think an engine swap would be easier and more cost effective than changing the oil pump at this point. That engine has 170k on it... and it is a 95 which may have faulty valve springs...

I would just pick up a nice low mile engine and swap it in.
 
Oh no!!! Terrible news Jesse...
The oil pressure in my vette reads around 30-40 at idle and 40-50 while cruising... so the Marks go all the way to 80 when cruising?!

I would think an engine swap would be easier and more cost effective than changing the oil pump at this point. That engine has 170k on it... and it is a 95 which may have faulty valve springs...

I would just pick up a nice low mile engine and swap it in.


I'm with you on this one..........either that or just drive the engine into the ground and have one waiting for when your current one lets go. I'm sure you could get a decent motor for under 1K ok greenleafauto.com or something.
 
Something to think about Max.......Thanks for the link Serge, but I'm kinda with Max on this one, haha. :) We'll see, I'm thinking(and hoping) that its just something in the pick-up tube, because if something got into the pump, it wouldn't build pressure. I'm thinking its more of a restriction on the oil that makes it take longer to build pressure, because once it circulates, I have maximum(normal) pressure for the entire time that I'm driving until I turn it off and it settles.

I'll keep you posted!
 
Ehhh.....maybe, but after running the car a few times, I'm sure whatever is in there, is good an lodged. I think it might be one of those rubber o-rings from the old rocker covers, you know, the ones that the bolts go through. Thats just a hunch.....since I didn't do the job.
 
Back
Top