My first day at the track?

Unfortunately, I have to work Saturday, but I'm hoping that that'll be able to change soon. The reason being that one of my friends has recently done a few mods to his Acura TL and wants to see what it can do... I've never been to the track before, but want to see what my (stock) '97 Mark VIII can do, and Virginia Motorsports Park is having a test and tune this Saturday.

Had a few questions about it, though. I've noticed that a lot of tracks have "rules of etiquette" posted. Is there anything that I should know that probably wouldn't be on the rules? What's the process for a test and tune? Short of counting the cars in each staging lane, is there any way Ryan and I can assure that we get to run side-by-side at least once?

And last but not least, what's the best launch method? Roll into it all the way, punch it straight down, roll a quarter then punch? haha

Forgot one thing:

VMP Website said:

Dial-Ins
All cars must have their vinyl number and dial-in on the left side of the vehicle. ... By staging the vehicle, ALL competitors have accepted their dial-in and all track conditions. NO changes may be made to dial-in after the vehicle crosses the ready line at the head of staging and proceeds under the tower. It is the RESPONSIBILITY OF THE DRIVER to check the dial-in boards and scoreboards for proper dial-in. There will be NO re-runs because of incorrect dial-in for either competitor.

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Isn't the dial-in what you expect your car to run? What should I do since I've never been to the track before? Or is the dial-in just something for competition days, and not test and tunes?

You don’t need a dial-in that is for bracket racing.
Can’t say about that track, but when you want to line up with a buddy get behind each other in the staging lanes. Then they usually split apart when you approach the start line. If you are out of sorts when you split up you can usually wave someone by so you can line up.

Lots of good info for you can be found here.

Also, look here.

If your friend has been there before, he can probably guide you. Feel free to ask people at the track, I've always found those who race to be extremely helpful to someone new.

At the track by me, if I wanted to race against someone, we'd line up in the same lane, and then tell the person who stages us that we want to run against each other.

one thing that instantly comes to mind is

you need to find out and be sure you know what side of the track the exit is.

once you determine this, you need to be aware of if you have the right of way when exiting the track.

If the exits from the track surface are in the right lane and you are in the left lane, then you MUST NOT cross in front of the car in the other lane to make your exit.

Generally the car IN the lane that has the turn off will have the right of way.

With that said.. Right of Way cannot be "taken" it must be given.

Meaning, just because you have the right of way, you still might have to yeild to the car in the other lane.

I have seen tragic crashes at dragstrips when newbies will turn across in front of a car...

Steve, thanks for the tip about pairing up. I'm kinda curious though, because going over the information on this particular track, it looks like there's about 6 or 8 staging lanes where 1 and 2 race, then 3 and 4, and so on, but I might've (probably) just misunderstood.

Driller, few questions for you about that post you linked me to. What does disconnecting the battery force the car to relearn? At least 1/4 tank, or only 1/4 tank? I know that gas adds lots of weight. Why should I turn the air suspension off? Should I change the tire pressure before I leave, or should they have the facilities for that at the track? The overdrive button on my car doesn't work-- I can't turn it off. =\ Sorry for all of the questions, and I know that they're not too relevant, but it's still nice to know why I'm doing what I'm doing. haha

Trixie, it's good to hear that the people at tracks tend to be nice and polite. I can only hope they're as helpful as you guys are. haha

XLRVIII, I was pretty sure about the exiting right of way, but it never hurts to be sure and have a refresher.

Patrick said:

The overdrive button on my car doesn't work-- I can't turn it off.

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pull your console out {not a hard job}
The wire for the overdrive often gets broken right in the area of the shifter.

It's an easy fix.

You really need to do this, because you definately want to turn your overdrive off.. while at the track.

You DO NOT want your car to make an upshift from 3rd to 4th when you lift off the gas at the end of your pass, that is very very hard on the OD band and could/likely damage your transmission.

If you doubt this.. get your car out on the road..in a SAFE PLACE.
Go WOT thru 1-2 gear.. once the car shifts into 3rd gear, then lift your foot out of WOT... the upshift will be harsh, make a loud clunk..which is BAD BAD BAD.

Dont do this more than once...I just posted this so anyone that doubted the validity of "turning off OD" during dragstrip runs.

"you've been warned".

Ooh... yeah, I guess that probably would be a good idea, then. Any more information on where I should look? Like, take out the console and look behind it, or under/around where the shifter is, or what?

Patrick said:

Driller, few questions for you about that post you linked me to. What does disconnecting the battery force the car to relearn? At least 1/4 tank, or only 1/4 tank? I know that gas adds lots of weight. Why should I turn the air suspension off? Should I change the tire pressure before I leave, or should they have the facilities for that at the track? The overdrive button on my car doesn't work-- I can't turn it off. =\ Sorry for all of the questions, and I know that they're not too relevant, but it's still nice to know why I'm doing what I'm doing. haha

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Oh, you want explanations with those answers? That'll cost extra.

Some of it I don't really know why, it just works.

Disconnecting the battery resets the correction factors the car uses in determining fuel /timing offsets if you will. Sort of like starting with a clean slate. It's a lot more technical than that, but that's how I envision it. Some guys will tell you to 'drive aggressively' to the track to have the car change to a more aggressive programming - I don't know if that holds true.

1/4 tank of gas used to be my target for arriving at the track. I felt for a long time that the perfect plan was for the 'low fuel warning' to come on after the last run at the track and planned accordingly. Then I ran too low once and actually was running out of fuel the last couple runs - hurting the top end performance. So now I run with more fuel. Maybe the most would be 1/2 tank. So we're talking 1/4 tank - maybe 4 gallons ~ about 30 pounds weight penalty.

Air suspension? The lower the car the better aerodynamics. I may not be able to prove it with time slips but the theory is true regardless. That and there's no need to have the suspension raising/lowering the car all day at the track each run.

They usually have air at the track. I carry a small 12V compressor.

Does the OD button not work at all or is it just the OD OFF light burned out? You NEED the OD off at the track for best results.

Unfortunately, the light isn't burned out-- it still flashes on with the rest of the lights when I turn the car on. It doesn't look like I'll be able to make it this Saturday, and the track's closed next Saturday because of Thanksgiving, so it seems as if I'll have some extra time to prepare. =) haha

With the extra time, fix the OD switch. I't not THAT difficult but can be tedious. A new switch assembly was still available from the dealer a while back so you may want to contact Max at Five Star Ford.

Well, pending approval from my manager, I've got Saturday off and can make it! Which means I've got tomorrow (Friday) from like, 2pm to whenever I feel like calling it quits to fix it. Would I need any parts, or is it just a wire that came loose and needs to be plugged in?

edit: and assuming that I will need new parts, is there any way that I can turn OD off before getting the parts? I'm just really anxious about this because I've never been to the strip before. =D

I would bet the wire is broken and needs spliced. It is very small and is a common problem.

Well here's hoping you're right, as I have to get it done tomorrow. Along with the fuel filter. haha Oh, speaking of which, does anyone know which fuse controls the fuel pressure in a gen 2 (1997) Mark? Mine didn't come with a manual and I can't find a fuse diagram online.

Driller, I hate to be pushy, but do you know where I can find step by step instructions on how to get to the wire? =D

Lot of "how to" on the clubs web site http://mark8.org/lod/technical.htm

the fule filter is there, but you can try to search the forum for post in the past about the OD wire.

Patrick said:

Oh, speaking of which, does anyone know which fuse controls the fuel pressure in a gen 2

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when I'm changing the fuel filter on my mark 8, I open the trunk and use a screwdriver handle to "whack" the Inertia Switch.. which trips the safety device and disables the fuel pump.
Then I try to start the motor 4-5,6 times to remove any residual fuel pressure from the line...

After I replace the filter, I simply press the "reset" button on the inertia switch and WALA.. the pump runs again as normal.

For information purposes, the "Inertia Switch" is located next to the switch you turn the air ride off... it's just forward of that switch, it's pretty easy to find if you know what you are looking for.

hope this helps.

ALSO, as JP/Driller said, the OD button failure is a common issue.. it happens alot. set aside 1-2 hours {for the first timer) and you can get his resolved.
It is a little tedious, but not difficult by any means.

GOOD LUCK at the track this weekend, make sure you come and let us know how you did.

*tip* when you stage the car, dont preload the torque convertor, just launch the car from "idle" and you should net the best ET.

ALSO... after you light the "top light" on the tree.. STOP...then creep very slowly until you see the "second light" come on then STOP.

That is called "shallow staged" and it'll give you the most "headstart" on the timing equipment which should also contribute heavily to netting the "best ET".

*cliff notes*
Launch from IDLE
SHALLOW STAGE
Dont cross over in front of your opponent at the end of the run
and...dont leave your car running while in the staging lanes.
HAVE FUN!!

First and foremost, dont get discouraged if you dont instantly crack off a 14 second pass.

A near stock second gen mark 8 should run somewhere between 15 flat and 15.40... with 15 flat being a damned good pass for a stock 97.

With some time, effort and a little cash you can get into the 14's pretty easily.
First suggestion would be getting a "good solid tune" from one of the SCT vendors who post on this board, for instance.. Lonnie @ blueovalchips

Check the vendors section, you should be able to track lonnie down pretty easily.

Suggestion, run it stock for now as you need a good "baseline" which will go along way in helping you evaluate any mods you do in the future.

Then down the road get the car tuned, preferrably an SCT tune.
Then go back to the track and pick up your 14 second timeslip!!!

P.S. drag racing a mark 8 can be a very VERY addicting thing...
"you've been warned"
HAHA

Oh for crying out loud.

I got roped into working later tonight in return for not having to work tomorrow, so I won't get to fix anything on the '97 by tomorrow. But don't worry! I have back-up. My '96 has never been to the track either, so she'll be accompanying me.

Which is actually better, because then I'll have until December 8th to replace the fuel filter, fix the OD switch, and anything else that comes to mind. That way I won't have to worry too much about time constraints, and can take the time to do it right instead of jerry-rigging it. haha

Thanks for all the tips! I'll be back (some time) tomorrow with time slips and hopefully pictures!

Oh great...

I just got home and moved my cars around so that I can get to my silver '96 for tomorrow, and figured I'd go ahead and start it up. As always, it had dropped down to the ground overnight (don't have the money for new struts), so I let it pump up for a while. The compressor ran until the limit, "CHECK AIR RIDE" so I turned it off and restarted it. Pumped for a few seconds and cut off-- all systems go.

I checked the traction control and overdrive... the both turn off and on as they should. But then I heard a beep, and saw a message: "LOW OIL LEVEL". How can that be? I just changed the oil a few weeks ago and have put maybe 20 miles on it since then. Turned it off and started it again, and I got the same message. So of course, I pop the hood and check the oil, and it's bone dry. Would this possibly be because the car was running not 20 seconds beforehand?

I've got a quart or two at my house, and was thinking I could dump those in before meeting up with my friend at the gas station about 3 miles away, and buy a few more quarts to put in before heading to the track. Do y'all think this would be okay? I'm really looking forward to this and hope that it would be okay.

Odd thing is, I didn't see any oil on the ground in the spot where it was parked.

:'(

Did you park it on a slope? How many qt did you put in when you changed it?