I have a 2000 ls8 with 124,000 on it. It ran great until the other day I went to start it and it just turns over like it has no compression. My fear is the timing has jumped. Is this a "valve freindly" engine? Is it worth fixing? I just had the tranny serviced and new tires put on and I hate to have to put more money in it than it's worth.
2000 Ls8
- Thread starter ff-475
- Start date
Frankie X
Registered
I'm only one Ford tech at one dealership, but I've never seen a 3.9 jump timing chains.
On the other hand... '00 and '01 LSs were absolutely NOTORIOUS for flooding at freezing or lower ambient temperatures. You don't have your location listed in your profile. Is it cold where you are?
The flooding is often so bad that the cylinders will actually become so fuel washed the engine will crank as if it has no compression. In extremely severe situations, there may be fuel entry past the rings into the oil.
You can try clearing it by holding the accelerator pedal right down to the floor (don't pump!) and cranking the living **** out of it until it begins to fire. Let up, but keep helping the car with the throttle 1/4 way down until it smooths out. This might not work; you may need to pull the plugs out and clean or replace them and try again.
This was so common that Ford issued 2 TSBs (technical service bulletins - not recalls), TSB 02-16-01 and TSB 03-07-03 that advised a software reprogram or possible replacement of the PCM, an IAC replacement, and a modified IAC harness.
Retail, this can get very expensive, but the problem can be avoided by helping the engine start cold with the following method:
Before turning the key on or cranking the engine, HOLD the throttle ~ 1/4 way down (never pump!) and maintain this while cranking the engine over.
When it begins to start, slowly release the throttle to avoid over-revving and let the vehicle idle for~ 1 minute before driving away.
Let us know what happens.
On the other hand... '00 and '01 LSs were absolutely NOTORIOUS for flooding at freezing or lower ambient temperatures. You don't have your location listed in your profile. Is it cold where you are?
The flooding is often so bad that the cylinders will actually become so fuel washed the engine will crank as if it has no compression. In extremely severe situations, there may be fuel entry past the rings into the oil.
You can try clearing it by holding the accelerator pedal right down to the floor (don't pump!) and cranking the living **** out of it until it begins to fire. Let up, but keep helping the car with the throttle 1/4 way down until it smooths out. This might not work; you may need to pull the plugs out and clean or replace them and try again.
This was so common that Ford issued 2 TSBs (technical service bulletins - not recalls), TSB 02-16-01 and TSB 03-07-03 that advised a software reprogram or possible replacement of the PCM, an IAC replacement, and a modified IAC harness.
Retail, this can get very expensive, but the problem can be avoided by helping the engine start cold with the following method:
Before turning the key on or cranking the engine, HOLD the throttle ~ 1/4 way down (never pump!) and maintain this while cranking the engine over.
When it begins to start, slowly release the throttle to avoid over-revving and let the vehicle idle for~ 1 minute before driving away.
Let us know what happens.
Last edited:
ls8
ls8
You hit it dead on. I took it to the dealer and asked them for a full checkup. They told me the idle control valve had stuck, flooding the cyl and crankcase. He also told me the ECM needed a software update to prevent this. Is was cold that morning... around 12 deg. He is going to flush the crankcase, replace the oil, all of the spark plugs, and the idle control valve, get it running and re-tune. He is also going to fix the airbag system witch has not worked in a year since it started flashing "3-6" he said something about high resistance or short in the drivers side airbag. He said he can do everthing listed and bring it to me for $575.00. I did not think it was too bad so I told him to fix it.
ls8
You hit it dead on. I took it to the dealer and asked them for a full checkup. They told me the idle control valve had stuck, flooding the cyl and crankcase. He also told me the ECM needed a software update to prevent this. Is was cold that morning... around 12 deg. He is going to flush the crankcase, replace the oil, all of the spark plugs, and the idle control valve, get it running and re-tune. He is also going to fix the airbag system witch has not worked in a year since it started flashing "3-6" he said something about high resistance or short in the drivers side airbag. He said he can do everthing listed and bring it to me for $575.00. I did not think it was too bad so I told him to fix it.
Frankie X
Registered
$575.oo for all that, including the air bag repair, is a great deal. There's a lot of people in LOD who'd love to know where this dealer is, based upon some of the horror stories I've read here.
Be advised: the PCM update and IAC will not guarantee 100% perfect starting in very low temperatures. If your car won't light up on the first attempt using the "no-touch-throttle" method, don't keep trying "no-touch". Use the procedure recommended in your owner's manual on pg. 146.
Here's the copy'n'paste of it from the Ford publication website:
"STARTING THE ENGINE
1. Turn the key to START without pressing the accelerator pedal and release as soon as the engine starts. The key will return to RUN.
2. If the temperature is above –12° C (10° F) and the engine does not start within five seconds on the first try, turn the key to OFF, wait 10 seconds and try again.
3. If the temperature is below -12° C (10° F) and the engine does not start in 15 seconds on the first try, turn the key OFF and wait 10 seconds and try again. If the engine does not start in two attempts, Press the accelerator pedal all the way to floor and hold. Turn the key to START position.
4. When the engine starts, release the key, then release the accelerator pedal gradually as the engine speeds up.
5. After idling for a few seconds, apply the brake and release the parking brake."
Be advised: the PCM update and IAC will not guarantee 100% perfect starting in very low temperatures. If your car won't light up on the first attempt using the "no-touch-throttle" method, don't keep trying "no-touch". Use the procedure recommended in your owner's manual on pg. 146.
Here's the copy'n'paste of it from the Ford publication website:
"STARTING THE ENGINE
1. Turn the key to START without pressing the accelerator pedal and release as soon as the engine starts. The key will return to RUN.
2. If the temperature is above –12° C (10° F) and the engine does not start within five seconds on the first try, turn the key to OFF, wait 10 seconds and try again.
3. If the temperature is below -12° C (10° F) and the engine does not start in 15 seconds on the first try, turn the key OFF and wait 10 seconds and try again. If the engine does not start in two attempts, Press the accelerator pedal all the way to floor and hold. Turn the key to START position.
4. When the engine starts, release the key, then release the accelerator pedal gradually as the engine speeds up.
5. After idling for a few seconds, apply the brake and release the parking brake."
Last edited: