ABS Setup Help

J

JERM

Registered
Hey guys im back for more help please. I have not acquired an chiltons yet so i was hoping you guys could help. My brake master cylinder went out, and yesterday i replaced it. My friend and i bled all 4 brakes and the car is now stopping. There is a black braided line that goes from the brake master cyl through the inner fender to what i believe is the ABS system. I have searched a lot but haven't found much on HOW to flush this system. I have found that i should bleed it after i bleed the brakes like i did, but no instructions. The weird thing is, now the abs is leaking and i didnt touch it at all. It was not leaking before i swapped the master cylinder. The fluid looks old and dirty and i want this car stopping like it should.
 
There has to be a way to "hot-wire" it to run. I will be replacing all lines, calipers, etc soon and need to figure out how to do this also There is A LOT of fluid in the ABS system that should always get purged.
 
I thought the same thing, billcu. But, its been over a year now since i changed the lines and i've had no trouble yet. Im not exactly sure on the inner workings of the ABS pump - im thinking the pump working is forcing the air out of the pump itself and its then able to be bled from the lines with normal pump and bleed procedure.

With the TA on, i assume valves to the rear are opening and closing and the front valves are closed - so maybe the aerated fluid can only take the open path?

I know when i did it, i would cycle the pump, bleed and cycle again - i was able to get some air at the rears, but none at front. Afterwards, i did some road testing and made the ABS kick in a few times just to ensure pedal stayed hard. It did.

Initially, i contacted those people that made the Televes IV tester, but they no longer make it.

I would be interested to know EXACTLY how the pump works and if its possible to 'hot wire' it to cycle and operate all its valves - must be a way.
 
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I thought both ABS and TC simple opened and closed valves, therefore bleeding the system starting with the 'new' master cylinder then furthest to closest wheel will replace all fluids. If the HCU isn't changed and the two lines aren't cracked then the special tester (NGS) isn't needed.
 
cigar51 said:
I thought both ABS and TC simple opened and closed valves, therefore bleeding the system starting with the 'new' master cylinder then furthest to closest wheel will replace all fluids. If the HCU isn't changed and the two lines aren't cracked then the special tester (NGS) isn't needed.
Click to expand...

Thats pretty much what i did when i replaced a bunch of lines. I can't remember the order i bled in now, i started at master cyl, bled that, then did the lines, then the cyls in a diagonal order. The TA only works on rear, whereas ABS works on all four. Must be 4 valves in system? No idea. Need a book or a look at the inside of one to figure out exactly what goes on in there. Whatever i did, it worked and stopped me from seeing a dealer.

Thing that puzzles me is its a diagonally split system, so how is only the rear isolated for TA? Have to research this some time...
 
The TC uses the ABS module, PCM, front ABS then rear ABS in that order to 'logically' know what you're doing 'wrong'... computers are friggin amazing.

ABS uses the split LF & RR circuit (front outlet on master)to open the circuit that the system detects a wheel lock...the theory of a diag-split is to keep you out of control in a straight line.
 
I had a problem with my pedal not feeling right after my Stainless flex hose problem.

http://www.lincolnsclub.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=21908

It was really bothering me. I didn't drive the car as it wasn't 100%. I had went and bench bled the master cyl as if I was bench bleeding it, but on the car. I bleed the whole system again. This was the 2nd time. I used my power bleeder that you see the pix of in the link thread.
Still didn't feel right and I suspected that the Master Cyl may have had some trash or something move around in it as the pedal seemed to drop a bunch giving me a very low pedal.

Well had a new Master Cyl cost $30 I would have thrown one at it, but they don't. More like $160.

I decided I go out and waste a bunch of new Brake fluid. Good thing I bought a bunch. [I bought 5Liters] I actually bought it for other vehicles.http://store.cdoc.com/detail.asp?id=186&str=1000-1020-0040&name=ATE+Racing+Brake+Fluids
Anyway after bleeding the system again [3rd time]and wasting about 1/2qt of fluid all is well.
 
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Cool. So, is the method using the traction assist ok then? As i said before, i did it that way and no problems - in fact, i went out earlier in the rain and did some emergency stops, just to be sure - still good. (just the rest of the car falling apart - Lol)
 
Where exactly is it leaking? Could be coincidence, something loose or the fact that the flush has forced out some debris that was blocking the leak. Also, what fluid did you use? I think DOT 3 and 4 ok, but 5 (the silicon one) is bad news for systems not designed for it.

Anyway, verify where its leaking.
 
Let me put a few questions to rest about Dot 5 silicone fluid.

I can tell you this from experience working in the Post Office garage.
VMF [Vehicle Maintenance Facility] Pensacola,Fl.

All postal vehicles have Dot 5 fluid in them. They even have a sticker installed on or by the Master Cylinder to tell you so.

Dot 5 is usually purple in color or all the stuff we got was.

Now in far away towns that we did yearly exams on small garages or service stations would do some of the maintenance on them.

Not knowing that these vehicles had the Dot 5 fluid in them, remember the sticker :( folks would add Dot 3 or 4 to them.

Mixing Dot 3 or 4 with Dot 5 will turn the fluid to Jello. Yep Jello!

It's a hell of a mess, never mind being unsafe.
 
I used DOT 3. Well it looks like the leak is coming from a large nut on the side of the unit. I tightened it a little and it seemed to help but when i moved my car onto the driveway later it leaked again.
 
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