changing fuel filter

D

dbcopper

Registered
I am certain somebody can quickly set me straight on this simple problem. After discovering that the fuel filter was hidden as if by a CIA undercover operative, I found nothing common about the method of attachment. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth, I discovered what seems to be a retainer clip in the bell shaped receiver on the line going toward the engine. After deforming it with dental tools, the filter came out. The remains of my now tortured and deformed internal clip looks like something that should have come with the new filter. There was nothing like it in the box ... question, should there be a new clip supplied, or if not, what is the trick to making a positive connection with the new filter? Any tips will cause eternal gratitude to be sent in your direction and possibly reduce the chance of my car burning to the ground. Thanks
 
Thanks, I can do that, but there has to be another solution! Design for fast assembly in the production line does not automatically reward the buyer in the long run. I can see this thing just simply flying together in the factory and causing way too much angst in the real world.
 
I hate to break it to you but you may have created more of a problem. Those fittings are designed to come off with high pressure disconnect tools, so if you deformed the line that isn't part of the fuel filter then I would suggest replacing it before you drive the car again. I'm hoping that it was something else you deformed. :)

As for the clips, the only clips you should see or have to deal with is a "cover clip" that goes over the entire high pressure fitting. If you are seeing something else it sounds like you might have taken something apart your weren't supposed to. However I do recall seeing a plastic clip somewhat embedded in the fuel filter before, but I don't recall it serving any purpose from what I remember.

This article may help you too: Fuel Filter Replacement
 
Last edited:
Wow, thanks, if it is possible to ruin a significant component of my Mk 8 fuel system by changing the fuel filter, I am wondering, "where's the value? Damn, it won't be the first time I have "improved" factory engineering, but is sure is a slap up side the melon to find that there is no simple way to "simply" change a fundamental item like an in line fuel filter. Is that not as basic as it gets? Rhetorical only, no answer necessary, but having found this to be nearly a wonder car in so many other ways, this is a major disappointment. Any other feedback will be gratefully accepted!
 
Using the proper tool available for 5.00 at ANY autoparts store would have saved you from this.

Also, should probably get one of the service manuals on CD that are available on Ebay for dirt cheap.

The fuel filter is easy to change, takes about 15 minutes when armed with the correct tools and the correct procedure.
 
Did you not get the memo?

This is a standard 90's Ford fuel filter location and a standard 'tool' is used to disconnect the fuel lines.

If you did damage the internal spring retaining clip, repair kits are commonly available at most parts stores.
 
Thanks to one and all who contributed to my fuel filter plight. A tough lesson, but I still hold this thought ... "Inline fuel filter ... special tools ... positively ridiculous engineering from Ford!" Live and learn ...
 
driller said:
Did you not get the memo?

This is a standard 90's Ford fuel filter location and a standard 'tool' is used to disconnect the fuel lines.

If you did damage the internal spring retaining clip, repair kits are commonly available at most parts stores.
Click to expand...

Right...I had destroyed the clip on my RIP 93 before I knew the tool existed. this was years ago.
 
Hey, I get it now, those darn engineers are all laughing their collective arses off at us all the time. When did the screwdriver and hose clamp fade from the scene? Now I know that my local parts store has the simple little tool and a new clip to take the place of the one I mangled. Only a few dollars and some serious grunts and groans and it works. The bigger problem is not solved, however, I was looking for a simple solution to rough idle and a "low fuel pressure" code on both banks. Still have that problem and now need to know what pressure I should be seeing in the low pressure delivery line. If anybody has taken the time to read this far and knows that answer, I'd appreciate the word. I have a book due to arrive in a day or two on all things fuel injection for the Mark 8. Perhaps my answer will arrive with the book.
 
Your answer is 39 psi with the vacuum disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator.

There is a schrader valve on the drivers side fuel rail to test the fuel pressure. The pressure regulator is on the passenger side fuel rail. You will need a fuel pressure test gauge available at the auto parts store.
 
dbcopper said:
When did the screwdriver and hose clamp fade from the scene?.
Click to expand...

when we all migrated from 5-9 PSI carburated fuel systems to 40-50 PSI EFI fuel systems.

The last car I had that had a screw clamp on a fuel like was my 78 Mustang II

Every car(ford) I owned after that had the "interference fit hair clips" on both ends of the filter, up until the mark 8 which uses an A/C type connection on one end and the interference fit hair clips on the other.

I imagine they did this to speed up the assembly line process as well...
takes alot less time to push a hair clip into place than it does to screw together a hose clamp.

If you haven't noticed.. ALOT of stuff on cars these days have gone the way of those "snap tite" models we used to assemble..

the rear air bags for instance, the first time you take one of those out.. you'll say to yourself..
"This is just like that fisher price toy I had when I was a kid!"
 
Wow, a whole big answer to a tongue in cheek rhetorical question ... thanks for taking the time, but my comment was more of a whimsical, self deprecating comment rather than a request for a diatribe on the progress of the species. Thanks though, that took some time and I'm sure was entertaining to many. I will now go back to the house after completing the paper work here in my out house to see if I can get my plumber on the tin can and string to see about indoor plumbing.
 
driller said:
Your answer is 39 psi with the vacuum disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator.

There is a schrader valve on the drivers side fuel rail to test the fuel pressure. The pressure regulator is on the passenger side fuel rail. You will need a fuel pressure test gauge available at the auto parts store.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, I really appreciate the help!
db
 
I am not sure if I did the right thing just now, but I attempted to reply with a thank you for your help and may have botched that attempt ... here is another, thanks for the help ... I greatly appreciate your response.
db
 
Be aware that the fuel pressure should also be tested with the engine under load(with the vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator).

The best method to do this is to attach a test gauge with a long enough hose to allow the pressure gauge to be duct taped to the windshield. Have a passenger observe the fuel pressure while you drive. Drive the car in a safe remote area with several wide open throttle sprints. Fuel pressure should remain at 39 psi under load.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top