Check engine light, 2 codes.......

F

frankjc

Registered
I have a 332: Insufficient EGR valve opening detected code, and 335: EGR Sensor voltage out-of-range code....not sure what I should do next. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
 
Well, here is the story. This morning on the way to work, the light came on, stopped for coffee, started it back up, no light all the way to work. Left work at 12, the light came on, stopped at the store, started it back up, no light. Car sat for 3+ hours, I went out to the store, no light at all. The car runs fine with the light on or off.
 
Its just the EGR valve. I may or may not cause problems. But you should clear the codes as suggested and see if it comes back. You may need to replace the EGR valve.
 
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 332 indicates the Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) / Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) did not change when the PCM output a duty cycle to the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid requesting EGR flow.
Possible causes are:
Icing
Obstructed EGR passages
Vacuum hose leaks.
Obstructed vacuum hoses.
Damaged EVR solenoid.
Damaged PFE/DPFE sensor.
Damaged EGR valve.
Damaged PCM.

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 335 indicates the Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) / Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor is out of Self-Test range.
Possible causes are:

Damaged PFE/DPFE sensor.
Obstructed pressure inlet hose(s).
Garage exhaust ventilation system affecting PFE/DPFE sensor operation.

Since you have both codes, I'm gonna recommend you change the EGR Pressure sensor, or DPFE sensor. Its on the back of the driver's side cylinder head. Get a mirror and a flashlight and check the two little silicone hoses first and make sure they are not damaged/cracked. If they are good, then get that DPFE sensor.
 
Thanks. I will check that out as soon as I can. One thing I was wondering was could the use of the a/c be affecting the vacuum? Is there a "test" for the DPFE itself?
I wish I could find my Ford manual.
 
There is a test but its a PITA. Check the hoses and if you want to do the tests with it on the back of the cylinder head let me know, I'll post the how to. :D
 
Ok, thanks. I think I will try to put the car on the lift at work and see if i can get a better look at the hoses. I tried last night with a mirror, but couldn't see much. No light today on the ride to work.
Thanks.
 
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Either way its gonna suck, haha. You will have to remove the throttle body to replace it too.
 
sounds like fun. if i am pulling the throttle body, i might as well change the iac which i have put off doing. i have had no CEL for the past 2 days now.
 
I have still not gotten around to this yet, busy at work, busy at home, etc...light only comes on every couple days now.
If I pull the throttle body, do i need a new gasket, or is it reusable?
 
frankjc said:
I have still not gotten around to this yet, busy at work, busy at home, etc...light only comes on every couple days now.
If I pull the throttle body, do i need a new gasket, or is it reusable?
Click to expand...

I don't fool with solid gaskets.

I use high temp liquid gaskets for those types of things. That way you KNOW you have a good seal.
 
You "can" re-use it if it doesn't break off. Once they get some miles on them, they become VERY brittle and usually stick to the throttle body or the intake when you take the throttle body off. I would order one for the job and if you don't use it just return it.
 
Ya...you're probably gonna want to pull it off first, but verify that your DPFE hoses are good before you order.
 
I didn't have to remove my throttle body to replace the DPFE sensor. It's not even close to it.

Is that a Gen 2 thing?
 
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