I had a noise coming from the front driver side. It sounded an awful lot like ball joints. Problem is, I had done the ball joint recently (replaced them with grease fitting ones made by MOOG with a lifetime warranty). I had also done the front hub/bearings, and tie rods are 1 year old or so. I finally was told by a knowledgeable source that it was likely the "sway bar link kit". So I purchased one for $39.99 with a lifetime warranty. A little tough to get off without a balljoint spreader or tie rod spreader tool. (kinda looks like a huge steel clothespin with a screw on one end). I popped it off and put the new one one. Total time was under a 1/2 hour. And the noise is gone. So next time before going for the bigger dollar items like ball joints, upper control arms, etc..have a quick look at the sway bar links. They are non-serviceable, so one the grease inside is dried up or the boots have cracked, they are shot. Just thought I'd pass this along..
Don't overlook sway bar links!!
- Thread starter RRocket
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magic_marker
Registered
RE: Don't overlook sway bar links!!
Good info - where did you buy it? Happen to have a prt#/manufacturer name?
Thanks!
Good info - where did you buy it? Happen to have a prt#/manufacturer name?
Thanks!
magic_marker
Registered
RE: Don't overlook sway bar links!!
I just had to dig up this oldie (but goodie)!
For the past year or so, whenever I drove over rough road (especially Portland cobblestone) or made a left-hand turn onto a semi-bumpy road, I noticed this weird tapping/clunking sound emanating from the right front wheel area. It sounded like someone sending morse code on my suspension with a rubber mallet.
Well, I decided to replace the front sway bar end links. Parts were cheap ($36.99/ea side) and available at the local Autozone. The old ones didn't look that bad (no ripped boots and still had plenty of lubrication), but I could pivot them *very* easily. After installing the new STIFF ones (took about an hour), the tapping/clunking is GONE!
Here's a brief write-up of the R&R, in case someone else has this problem and wants to try a quick, easy fix:
Tools required:
- 15mm deepwell socket (for the upper end link nuts)
- a 15mm wrench (for the lower end link nuts-I used a 5/8" line wrench)
- a 14mm socket (for the bolts that hold the calipers on - I removed the calipers for better access to the end link)
- a hammer and tie rod end remover (pickle fork)
- a crowbar (to guide the sway bar onto the lower end link stud)
Procedure:
1) Turn off air ride, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
2) Jack up both sides of the car and remove the wheels. Make sure the jackstands are under the frame.
3) Remove the two caliper bolts (14mm) to the driver's side brake caliper. Suspend caliper with twist tie.
4) Remove upper end link nut (15mm) with deepwell socket. The nut is right in front of you, on the spindle.
5) Remove lower end link nut (15mm) with line wrench.
6) Use pickle fork and hammer to separate the upper and lower ends of the link.
7) Remove old link.
8) Install new link by inserting the upper end link stud into the spindle, and tightening upper nut until there is very little play. Then insert the lower end link stud into the sway bar. You will need to use a crowbar or pry bar to manipulate the sway bar into position. (This was the most time consuming part for me.) Finally, install lower nut onto lower end link stud and tighten upper nut. 49-53 ft/lbs is the spec. for both the upper and lower nuts.
9) Reinstall caliper (you may need to push the caliper back in a little) and mount the wheel.
10) Repeat 3-9 for the passenger side.
11) Let the car down, torque your lugnuts, and turn on the air ride.
12) If you had to push the calipers back in earlier, be sure to start the car and pump the brakes to get your pressure back BEFORE shifting out of Park!!
That's all, folks.
I just had to dig up this oldie (but goodie)!
For the past year or so, whenever I drove over rough road (especially Portland cobblestone) or made a left-hand turn onto a semi-bumpy road, I noticed this weird tapping/clunking sound emanating from the right front wheel area. It sounded like someone sending morse code on my suspension with a rubber mallet.
Well, I decided to replace the front sway bar end links. Parts were cheap ($36.99/ea side) and available at the local Autozone. The old ones didn't look that bad (no ripped boots and still had plenty of lubrication), but I could pivot them *very* easily. After installing the new STIFF ones (took about an hour), the tapping/clunking is GONE!
Here's a brief write-up of the R&R, in case someone else has this problem and wants to try a quick, easy fix:
Tools required:
- 15mm deepwell socket (for the upper end link nuts)
- a 15mm wrench (for the lower end link nuts-I used a 5/8" line wrench)
- a 14mm socket (for the bolts that hold the calipers on - I removed the calipers for better access to the end link)
- a hammer and tie rod end remover (pickle fork)
- a crowbar (to guide the sway bar onto the lower end link stud)
Procedure:
1) Turn off air ride, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
2) Jack up both sides of the car and remove the wheels. Make sure the jackstands are under the frame.
3) Remove the two caliper bolts (14mm) to the driver's side brake caliper. Suspend caliper with twist tie.
4) Remove upper end link nut (15mm) with deepwell socket. The nut is right in front of you, on the spindle.
5) Remove lower end link nut (15mm) with line wrench.
6) Use pickle fork and hammer to separate the upper and lower ends of the link.
7) Remove old link.
8) Install new link by inserting the upper end link stud into the spindle, and tightening upper nut until there is very little play. Then insert the lower end link stud into the sway bar. You will need to use a crowbar or pry bar to manipulate the sway bar into position. (This was the most time consuming part for me.) Finally, install lower nut onto lower end link stud and tighten upper nut. 49-53 ft/lbs is the spec. for both the upper and lower nuts.
9) Reinstall caliper (you may need to push the caliper back in a little) and mount the wheel.
10) Repeat 3-9 for the passenger side.
11) Let the car down, torque your lugnuts, and turn on the air ride.
12) If you had to push the calipers back in earlier, be sure to start the car and pump the brakes to get your pressure back BEFORE shifting out of Park!!
That's all, folks.
RE: Don't overlook sway bar links!!
When I replaced mine the first time I had an even worse noise after I was done, especially going over bumps. I had to go in and tighten up the nuts even more, holding the base of the threaded link with vise grips to hold it. Kind of scarred up the dust boots, but it is a lot better now.
When I replaced mine the first time I had an even worse noise after I was done, especially going over bumps. I had to go in and tighten up the nuts even more, holding the base of the threaded link with vise grips to hold it. Kind of scarred up the dust boots, but it is a lot better now.