sleeper
Former LOD President
http://www.lincolnsclub.org/users/sleeper/solenoid_mod_1.3.jpg
Okay, there are two major changes from Kale's version (1.2).
First of all, i'm cutting the air-ride off using pin 11 instead of pin 21. On my car at least, the air ride still functions normally with pin 21 cut. Pin 11 is the air-ride switch input. This circuit connects to the message sensor and the air ride switch. When the air-ride switch is on, the pin is grounded. When the switch is off, it is open, the message center sees no ground and displays "air ride switch off" and the air-ride computer doesn't operate the suspension. If you cut this wire at the computer, the message center still sees ground and does not display a message, and the computer doesn't see ground, and doesn't function to control the suspension.
The other major change is using a DPST (dual pole, single throw) switch instead of a dual-coil latching relay. This eliminates a few diodes and some unnecessary wiring from the system, and will be cheaper to implement by about $20. The switch's operation is simple. When the switch is on, both pins (11 and 12) are connected normally, and the system functions in "automatic" mode, aka as if it were completely stock. If you throw that switch, you shut off the air ride, and shut off the message center input, and switch the system over to manual control. This can be done with the car running, driving down the road, parked, whenever. You will get no error message, and no "air ride switch off" message. When you switch it back to automatic mode, it is as if nothing happened. If you open and close the door, or do something else that would normally cause the computer to re-evaluate the height sensor inputs, the car returns to normal ride height.
I also added text to clarify what to do with the wires, whether to cut or to splice into them.
Keep in mind that if you alter the stance of the car side to side, make it lean, or try to attempt "three wheel motion", the car will not return to being completely level on the first try after returning it to automatic mode. That is because it is a three channel system, and it won't be able to tell if the right rear wheel is at the proper height or not. After a few cycles, it should return to normal, though.
When i tried to install Kale's version, the relay i bought would not function. Perhaps i bought a 110 volt relay, or maybe it's defective, either way, it didn't work. So i thought for a few minutes and decided that a switch would be the easier way to go. This may not be the best solution if you plan to use an output from an alarm system to control your suspension, though.
Okay, there are two major changes from Kale's version (1.2).
First of all, i'm cutting the air-ride off using pin 11 instead of pin 21. On my car at least, the air ride still functions normally with pin 21 cut. Pin 11 is the air-ride switch input. This circuit connects to the message sensor and the air ride switch. When the air-ride switch is on, the pin is grounded. When the switch is off, it is open, the message center sees no ground and displays "air ride switch off" and the air-ride computer doesn't operate the suspension. If you cut this wire at the computer, the message center still sees ground and does not display a message, and the computer doesn't see ground, and doesn't function to control the suspension.
The other major change is using a DPST (dual pole, single throw) switch instead of a dual-coil latching relay. This eliminates a few diodes and some unnecessary wiring from the system, and will be cheaper to implement by about $20. The switch's operation is simple. When the switch is on, both pins (11 and 12) are connected normally, and the system functions in "automatic" mode, aka as if it were completely stock. If you throw that switch, you shut off the air ride, and shut off the message center input, and switch the system over to manual control. This can be done with the car running, driving down the road, parked, whenever. You will get no error message, and no "air ride switch off" message. When you switch it back to automatic mode, it is as if nothing happened. If you open and close the door, or do something else that would normally cause the computer to re-evaluate the height sensor inputs, the car returns to normal ride height.
I also added text to clarify what to do with the wires, whether to cut or to splice into them.
Keep in mind that if you alter the stance of the car side to side, make it lean, or try to attempt "three wheel motion", the car will not return to being completely level on the first try after returning it to automatic mode. That is because it is a three channel system, and it won't be able to tell if the right rear wheel is at the proper height or not. After a few cycles, it should return to normal, though.
When i tried to install Kale's version, the relay i bought would not function. Perhaps i bought a 110 volt relay, or maybe it's defective, either way, it didn't work. So i thought for a few minutes and decided that a switch would be the easier way to go. This may not be the best solution if you plan to use an output from an alarm system to control your suspension, though.
