Newbie looking for repair advice

T

Texas

Registered
Hello to all! New here. Wanted to run this by the forum for advice. Took my 1998 Navigator with 98,000 Miles on it to the dealer to diagnos the "ABS" light being on. A faulty rear wheel speed sensor was replaced and fixed my problem, however, the service manager gave me a laundry list of other items they found on their "Multi-Point Inspection list" they recommended I have done. Wanted to get y'alls advice on whether I should be extremely concerned, or mildly cautious on having any or all the work done. Mind you, the truck is running fine with no signs of repair issues. The dealers list included (these prices are for labor and parts, labor = $92/hour):
Front Air Suspension Shocks = $464.00
Rear Shocks = $238.00
Right Front Outer CV Boot = $355.00
Right Rear Axle Seal/Pinion Seal/Rear Extension Housing Seal = $464.00
Thanks!
 
RE: Newbie looking for repair advice

Well, it all depends on how big a shade tree you work under.

Equating a Navigator to a Ford Truck, the front and rear shocks should be a no brainer. From the cost of the shocks , it doesn't sound like you are replacing the entire air strut like you would on a Mark -- just the shocks.

If you have wheel knuckle tools and a service manual, the boot and the seal should be ok to do yourself if you run with the big boys. You’ll need a big shade tree -- nothing smaller than a 150 year old Oak.
 
RE: Newbie looking for repair advice

I've got a 10 Foot Plum tree, but that's about it. Done my own oil and brake pads, but nothing like an axle seal. Perhaps this Little Pup should leave it to the dogs with the bigger bark! I'd hate to go yelping for help with my tail between my legs. Thanks for the input!
 
RE: Newbie looking for repair advice

It takes far greater strengths to back away from a project that it does to dive right in. Making a simple assumption can cost more bucks than was first quoted.
 
RE: Newbie looking for repair advice

The shocks are to be replaced when the driver feels that the ride has become too bouncy...they are mostly a convenience item. Repair shops will always suggest that the shocks be replaced because there is nothing objective to say that they are failing, save for the rare leaking shock. I've seen guys drive on completely dead shocks because they have no money, and it's okay to drive on dead shocks...not completely safe, but okay. In short, replace the shocks if it FEELS like you need to. Push against the sides of your car and see if the bouncing is being dampened. You should get one rebound and that's it. Two rebounds mean worn shocks...three means dead shocks.

As for the boot, that will lead to joint contamination and failure...EVENTUALLY. Just another way for shops to get your money...in my opinion. Since a bad boot will lead to joint failure, and the joint has to be replaced with the boot in all likelyhood, it's better to just wait until the joint starts to fail. When it gets loose or makes noise, then shell out the cash.

The axle seal I'm not sure about, though I would think you would want to get that fixed sooner rather than later.
 
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