Ongoing problem

Misanthropy

Misanthropy

Information Junkie
I have had shaky suspension for quite some time now. I swapped air ride out for coil/spring, added http://store.summitracing.com/partd...907910+4294906849+4294925130+115&autoview=sku

had the front upper control arms replaced. replaced my rear shocks, replaced front rotors (ebc green pads and black cross drilled/slotted rotors), replaced the front sway arm links, had brake booster and master cylinder replaced.

I didn't have my car aligned when I replaced the suspension and my steering wheel sits at 10pm instead of 12. When I brake my steering wheel constantly vibrates and I am sick of it.


Here is what I plan do once I find a reliable mechanic:
1.) have all rotors/pads replaced with stock
2.) have e-brake cable replaced (it is broken near the rear I believe)
3.) have car aligned front & rear
4.) have mechanic fix the off center steering wheel problem (no idea why it is like this
5.) wheels balanced and rotated

Questions:
1.) It's going to be hard to find a mechanic that isn't going to rip me off by doing more work than necessary. Does anyone know a good all around mechanic near Sacramento California? (I live in lincoln)

2.) What else should I replace myself before doing this or have the mechanic replace while doing this? Possibly lower front control arms?

3.) Would my Calipers be in need of replacing if my car is at 160k ?:D Or should I upgrade
 
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I had a local Meineke shop rebuild my entire front end and it was like it drove on a rail afterwards. :wave022:

Get a 4 wheel alignment as well and you should be golden.

160K stock calipers? Time to upgrade. ;)

If you get stock brakes, buy the best Motorcraft rotors and get the cheaper non-metallic pads. Break the pads/rotors in properly and you shouldn't have a problem. Yes they will dust the wheels and wear faster than semi-metallic or exotic materials, but for a daily driver it is the best combo IMHO.
 
Any bushing in the front I could replace or have replaced that would help ?

If I was to upgrade my calipers etc what should I go with ?
 
I've found that worn strut rod bushings and/or rotor runout can cause steering wheel vibration while braking, even with new rotors.

Rotor runout can be caused by putting new rotors on rusty hubs. The hubs should be cleaned of all rust where the rotor contacts it. The runout can be checked using a dial indicator.

You really should have had your front alignment done when you replaced your front end parts. That's why your steering wheel position is wrong.
 
If your strut rod bushings have never been replaced you will need them done, so you might as well do the lower control arms as they have to come out as well.

Your issue with the steering wheel can be cleared up when you do the alignment, actually specs call for a slight miss from 12 o'clock for the purpose of the ignition lock not jamming.

You could save yourself some money by doing it yourself or with a friend as the replacements you are talking about are not terribly difficult to do (wheel alignment needs to be done by shop).

Some of or all of your wheel wobble could be attributed to build up on your rotors, that could possilby be corrected by resanding the surfaces and reseating the new brake pads. Look up the Stop tech article and it will explain this failure mode for you, and also discuss the proper break in procedure to follow.

If you want to price the parts out you can go to Advance Auto. Use the Bendix Rotors and Ceramix pads, and the Cardone rebuilt Calipers. Strut rod bushings could be TRW/Moog or Motorcraft.
 
This answer comes kinda late but. When you get a four wheel alignment, centering the wheel is part of the job. Wont hurt to specify it tho. you can align all day, and if you have worn control arm bushings all is for naught. You can spend hundreds for upgraded rotors and pads and if you dont properly torque the lug nuts you are just wasting time and money.
 
whiplash15 said:
This answer comes kinda late but. When you get a four wheel alignment, centering the wheel is part of the job. Wont hurt to specify it tho. you can align all day, and if you have worn control arm bushings all is for naught. You can spend hundreds for upgraded rotors and pads and if you dont properly torque the lug nuts you are just wasting time and money.
Click to expand...

I forgot to add about 136k miles I had the tie rod bushings replaced by: Les Schwab.. I' mat 160k now.. should I have them replaced again?


I appreciate all the great info you guys have written down. Nice to know something as simple as a bad torque on the lugs can cause this. I was really worried. Thats why I am having a shop do all of my suspension and even if I so much as take the tires off again I will check my torque on the lugs. I have just been using my impact gun prior.
 
When I go into a tire store / front end shop I have my 1/2in Craftsman ratcheting torque wrench in the vehicle. After they start to get started I will pull it out of the vehicle and ask if they know what this is?

Then I tell them "USE IT! Don't be warping my rotors with your impact"

Then I will set it to 100ftlbs and hand it to them.


When I replaced the parts in my front end I found that the upper ball joint was tight on both sides. The boot's were torn, but the bushings were shot and moving around.

On the Lower control arms the bushings were tight and the ball joints were loose and flopping.
 
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I wouldn't let a tire shop touch my torque wrench.
They don't even know how to use one.

I've watched them many times; first they use the impact wrench, then they use the torque wrench. The torque wrench just clicks, the nut doesn't turn a bit. That's not how to torque a nut.

Idiots!:D

I bring my wheels in for tire mounting, they don't touch a nut on my cars.;)
 
I hear 'ya billcu. In your statement the nut's are most likely already past the 100ftlb torque. So the click of the torque wrench is just that. A "Click".

I stand there and supervise on my stuff. If they have a problem with that I go elsewhere. The common statement is "Our insurance doesn't allow you to be in the shop area."

Then you ain't working on my car!


Misanthropy said:
I have one. Do you suggest if i do any removing of my tires I should torque 100 also ?
Click to expand...

Yes. In the standard cross/Star pattern.

When I first got my Mk VIII my 1/2in drive CP impact would not remove the lug nuts. They were that tight. Had to jump up & down on a 18in breaker bar. :(
 
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billcu said:
I wouldn't let a tire shop touch my torque wrench.
They don't even know how to use one.
Click to expand...

The one shop I use does know. They basically spin the lugnuts up snug with the air wrench then use a torque wrench for 1/4 turn or more. Others may not know - they brag on the torque sticks they use.
 
billcu said:
I wouldn't let a tire shop touch my torque wrench.
They don't even know how to use one.

I've watched them many times; first they use the impact wrench, then they use the torque wrench. The torque wrench just clicks, the nut doesn't turn a bit. That's not how to torque a nut.

Idiots!:D

I bring my wheels in for tire mounting, they don't touch a nut on my cars.;)
Click to expand...

lol.

I use my impact on the lowest setting, which gets the nut up to about 80 ftlbs. Then I use the wrench to get to 100.
 
Misanthropy said:
http://www.partsamerica.com/product...1C&MfrPartNumber=164538&PartType=5003&PTSet=A

of course this is only 1/4, but these are the ones you suggested ? it says "comes with pad" is that break pad ? I think not but was just making sure.

I have disassembled the rear and front, I just haven't ever disconnected the brake lines. Will I need to bleed them after the swap ? I will also look into that article you suggested.
Click to expand...

Pretty much need to bleed the brakes after you do anything with them.
 
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