Rear Brakes

SMOOTH8

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SMOOTH8 That was a nice post for front brake job, but does anyone have a similar for rear brake job?
 
RE: Rear Brakes

I didn't write this, it's an article HOTLNC wrote (some editing) which I think is great.


1) Turn off suspension system switch located in trunk, driver’s side.

2) Loosen the lug bolts.

3) Jack up the rear end and use jack stands to clear the wheels.

4) Remove lug bolts and remove wheels. Put wheels under frame jack points.

5) Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on the caliper bracket. Slide off caliper.

6) If rotors need regrinding, remove two bolts on caliper bracket. These bolts are held with Loc-tite. They may be hard to brake apart. Soak the bolts with PBblaster if necessary. This may take a couple of hours to work.

7) Notice whether the rotors are marked with yellow strip on white tipped lug bolt. If not mark rotor and lug bolt so that rotor is put on the same side and lugbolts that they were on when removed. There may be spring clips on lug bolts holding rotor. Remove and discard these. Remove rotor. If rotor is rusted/corroded to wheel hub, tap with rubber/brass hammer until loose.

8) After resurfacing, reinstall rotors, using marks to align the rotors to their lugs. Use a couple of lug bolts to hold rotor flat against hub. If there was any rust on the hub remove it. The rotors must be absolutely flat against the hub. Rust can fake a warped rotor. Make sure your hands are oil/grease free while handling rotors and new pads.

9) Install caliper bracket. Use loc-tite (blue or red) on bolts. If Loc-tite not used, they can come loose and rattle.

10) Rear caliper pistons are screwed in, due to parking brake adjustment. Get the tool for Fords or Lincolns from NAPA for this process, part number 3355, check it with NAPA. The cube tool you may find at most auto parts stores will not work in many cases. If you encounter difficulty screwing the piston back in (it's clockwise), you should take the rotor off and install the caliper bracket in place to hold the caliper. With a C-clamp holding the caliper to the bracket, attach the tool and try turning it while braced in place. A long extension or breaker bar would help in this turning process.

11) Lubricate the ears of the pad using high temperature grease that is supplied with shoes. If the old shoes were not wearing symmetrical (both are same thickness) this is a sign that the thicker pad was jamming in the caliper bracket and not pulling its weight in the braking job.

12) Insert the pads into the caliper bracket and slide on the caliper. The pads have springs on the top. Make sure the flats on the dust covers ends on the caliper bolt holes are aligned with the flats on the calipers. Install loc-tite on the bolt ends. You might find it easier to install the lower caliper bolt first and then, while pressing down on the caliper, wiggle in the top bolt. Tighten bolts.

13) Install wheel and lug bolts. Tighten bolts enough to hold wheel.

14) Lower front end and re-tighten bolts to 95 to 105 foot-pounds.

15) Turn on suspension system switch and start car.

16) Pump brakes before you drive car. This forces the caliper pistons to move into position against the pads. The brake pedal may go all the way to the floor this first time.
 
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