I dn't know if there is a write-up on this, (don't see one on TECH),but it's a fairly straight affair.
Several weeks ago, I started hearing the famous rear shock "thump". So, I decided it was time to replace the shocks and shock mounts, the main cause of the thump...???
I opted for a set of Bilsteins, that are made for the Mustang Cobra. Should you chose these same application shocks, be warned! Your Lincoln will ride a little bit stiffer. Not by much, but for some people, if it's not that "lincoln Ride", they are not happy. I am trying to find that perfect blend of personal liking between good cornering and a nice ride. Alas, that's another story.
Replacing the shocks is relatively easy. On a level of 1 to 10, ten being an uber mechanic that can rebuild a motor with his eyes closed, I'd have to rate this job as a 3.
First and foremost, make sure you set the parking brake if you only work on one side at a time. ie. if you don't raise the whole rear end of the car, and pull both tires at the same time.
I opted to take the one tire at a time approach.
I will forego the usual warnings, such as don't work under the vehicle if it's not supported by jack stands, wearing appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, such as safety goggles, some sort of mechanic gloves, etc, etc.
Here goes.
1. Set Parking Brake
2. Turn off the Air Ride. You will find the switch in the trunk, on the driver's side.
3. Pull away the interior carpeting by removing the cargo net screws, and two pop in tabs on each side. A popup tab tool comes in handy here, but it is not necessary. You won't have to completely remove the carpeting. Just fold it out of the way towards the center of the trunk.
4. Raise the side you want to start on, and remove the tire. This is where a second jack is required, in order to raise/support the lower control arm, and suspension in general. You will have to raise the suspension several inches once the new shock is ready to be installed.
5. Go back to the trunk, and loosen/remove the two nuts that hold the shock to the body. Don't worry about the bigger nut in the center. This is where Air tools come in handy. They are not required, but it will make your life a bit easier.
6. Once you have removed the two nuts, start lowering the suspension with the 2nd jack. Lower it enough to where you can slightly compress the old shock in order to remove it from it's top mounting. Try not to let the suspension hang. I don't think it would hurt anything, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
7. Once you have lowered the suspension enough to take the load off the shock, start removing the lower shock bolt. The bolt threads into a locking nut that will fall off as soon as it runs out of threads. Do not lose this nut.
8. Loosen the bolt enough to give you some play in the shock mounting area, Pull the shock towards you enough to clear the upper mounting holes. Once you have done that, completely remove the lower bolt, and remove the shock from the vehicle. Now, most every shock manufacturer ships their shock with bushings that go between the upper mounting area of he vehicle, and the shock. I would highly advise you call Mad Max at Five Star Ford, and order a set of upper shock mounts. It will make the job so much more pleasant. Max is a great guy to deal with, he has the best prices for us, and most of all... he knows his stuff. Ok Max, I plugged you, where's my payoff?
Seriously, if you don't call Max, you're doing yourself a disservice.
9. Take the new shock, mount up the new shock mounts, and screw the one time use bolt that comes with the shocks into it.
Installation of the new shock is the reverse of removal.
While you have the tires off, you may want to check related components, such as brakes, Half Shafts, and Swaybar. The "thump" on my Lincoln didn't come from a bad shock mount, but rather from a broken and missing passenger side swaybar bracket. I did not catch it at first, so you can imagine my surprise when after installing the new shocks, the "thump" was still there.
Remember to double check all your bolts and nuts. You should also re-torque the wheel nuts, and do a visual or actual physical check of all the nuts and bolts you worked on after 50 or so miles.
Required Tools:
Two Jacks
One 18mm Socket, and/or one 18mm wrench.
One 14mm Socket
Whatever size the new one time use shock nut the shocks come with (I think they vary in size by manufacturer).
Some elbow grease, especially if you don't have Pneumatic tools.
Stay tuned for more write-ups as I do them. Next on the list will be a door panel removal and installation. Actually, truth be told, it's already been done, but I haven't had the time to do a write-up on it. Same goes for front Air Strut replacement. I am working closely with some people on coming up with a tubular engine cradle.
If there is something you'd like to see a write-up on, please let me know. It may give me an excuse to replace a part.
I won't promise I will do the write-up, but you never know.
This write-up may be used on other websites with authors' (my) permission and due credit, providing text and images are not changed... Unless I screwed up, and missed something. then I reserve the right to update the how-to.
Several weeks ago, I started hearing the famous rear shock "thump". So, I decided it was time to replace the shocks and shock mounts, the main cause of the thump...???
I opted for a set of Bilsteins, that are made for the Mustang Cobra. Should you chose these same application shocks, be warned! Your Lincoln will ride a little bit stiffer. Not by much, but for some people, if it's not that "lincoln Ride", they are not happy. I am trying to find that perfect blend of personal liking between good cornering and a nice ride. Alas, that's another story.
Replacing the shocks is relatively easy. On a level of 1 to 10, ten being an uber mechanic that can rebuild a motor with his eyes closed, I'd have to rate this job as a 3.
First and foremost, make sure you set the parking brake if you only work on one side at a time. ie. if you don't raise the whole rear end of the car, and pull both tires at the same time.
I opted to take the one tire at a time approach.
I will forego the usual warnings, such as don't work under the vehicle if it's not supported by jack stands, wearing appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, such as safety goggles, some sort of mechanic gloves, etc, etc.
Here goes.
1. Set Parking Brake
2. Turn off the Air Ride. You will find the switch in the trunk, on the driver's side.
3. Pull away the interior carpeting by removing the cargo net screws, and two pop in tabs on each side. A popup tab tool comes in handy here, but it is not necessary. You won't have to completely remove the carpeting. Just fold it out of the way towards the center of the trunk.
4. Raise the side you want to start on, and remove the tire. This is where a second jack is required, in order to raise/support the lower control arm, and suspension in general. You will have to raise the suspension several inches once the new shock is ready to be installed.
5. Go back to the trunk, and loosen/remove the two nuts that hold the shock to the body. Don't worry about the bigger nut in the center. This is where Air tools come in handy. They are not required, but it will make your life a bit easier.
6. Once you have removed the two nuts, start lowering the suspension with the 2nd jack. Lower it enough to where you can slightly compress the old shock in order to remove it from it's top mounting. Try not to let the suspension hang. I don't think it would hurt anything, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
7. Once you have lowered the suspension enough to take the load off the shock, start removing the lower shock bolt. The bolt threads into a locking nut that will fall off as soon as it runs out of threads. Do not lose this nut.
8. Loosen the bolt enough to give you some play in the shock mounting area, Pull the shock towards you enough to clear the upper mounting holes. Once you have done that, completely remove the lower bolt, and remove the shock from the vehicle. Now, most every shock manufacturer ships their shock with bushings that go between the upper mounting area of he vehicle, and the shock. I would highly advise you call Mad Max at Five Star Ford, and order a set of upper shock mounts. It will make the job so much more pleasant. Max is a great guy to deal with, he has the best prices for us, and most of all... he knows his stuff. Ok Max, I plugged you, where's my payoff?
Seriously, if you don't call Max, you're doing yourself a disservice.
9. Take the new shock, mount up the new shock mounts, and screw the one time use bolt that comes with the shocks into it.
Installation of the new shock is the reverse of removal.
While you have the tires off, you may want to check related components, such as brakes, Half Shafts, and Swaybar. The "thump" on my Lincoln didn't come from a bad shock mount, but rather from a broken and missing passenger side swaybar bracket. I did not catch it at first, so you can imagine my surprise when after installing the new shocks, the "thump" was still there.
Remember to double check all your bolts and nuts. You should also re-torque the wheel nuts, and do a visual or actual physical check of all the nuts and bolts you worked on after 50 or so miles.
Required Tools:
Two Jacks
One 18mm Socket, and/or one 18mm wrench.
One 14mm Socket
Whatever size the new one time use shock nut the shocks come with (I think they vary in size by manufacturer).
Some elbow grease, especially if you don't have Pneumatic tools.
Stay tuned for more write-ups as I do them. Next on the list will be a door panel removal and installation. Actually, truth be told, it's already been done, but I haven't had the time to do a write-up on it. Same goes for front Air Strut replacement. I am working closely with some people on coming up with a tubular engine cradle.
If there is something you'd like to see a write-up on, please let me know. It may give me an excuse to replace a part.
I won't promise I will do the write-up, but you never know.This write-up may be used on other websites with authors' (my) permission and due credit, providing text and images are not changed... Unless I screwed up, and missed something. then I reserve the right to update the how-to.
